Home Forums Gear Knives and Blades knife sharpening ~ recommendations needed

I'll let others chime in, there are many.

I will say, beware of a wire edge and on't underestimate a leather strop. Actually 2, one plain leather and the other with rouge.

Remember, it's easier to keep an edge than put one back on.

The best thing is to get a big DMT and learn how to properly sharpen on cheap knives. You want the DMT's with the holes and know that if you know what you are doing you won't scratch the blade.

Mainly 154CM and S30V and also some D2

If you aren't a good hand sharpener, the edgepro apex is the way to go.

I started with hand, used lansky for years, tied others and finally found the edgepro. I can go to razor sharp levels with it.

How any other systems have grits that go well up into the 1,000's

For rough work such as cutting through the hide of a deer to gut it and ripping the stuff out I prefer a folder with a partial serrated blade and a smooth blade.

The serrated blade cuts faster to get started.

On a single blade knife for the same work I like a rough edge put there by a rough stone.

The wicked edge is just an improvement on the lanky.

With the edge pro you don't have the problem of the angle changing the further away you get from the center of the rig. In the edge pro case you simply slide the knife down and hold it on the incline bed so there isn't a problem.

Holding the knife is the only thing you have to learn with the edge pro - after that you only need to learn when to stop. I made some of mine too sharp.

BTW - you can't create an edge or rebuild an edge with a strop.... Come on! There is now way in heck I'm going to remove chips in a blade with a strop either.

I just want to develop a method and run with it!

Why not just learn how to use stones and diamond plates?

A fella really don't need electrical gadgets, wheels, discs, belts, rotors, clamps, guides, compounds, polishers, potions and commercial strops to get a fugging edge. Maybe someone will come up with a smartfone app, so alls a guy has to do is move his thumbs and his blades magically appear better than new......
How the hell did we get by before technology?....

The only reason DMT is better than a Norton is because the DMT stays flat and lasts longer.

Unless you need to sharpen really large blades, and not necessarily then, you don't have to get the expensive DMT stones.The 6" stones will do fine.

Why don't you try a 6" red DMT? Then if you want the other stuff later you can buy it. That 6" DMT can go anywhere with you a lot better than a sharpening kit and it's only about $30. It's all you will need to keep a knife sharp. It will actually be better after it has worn a little finer, so you can add a ceramic rod for now if you want. Use the ceramic after the DMT and before the strop untill the DMT wears a little finer.

My only point in all this is that most of us would be better served to spend that $300 on a good quality knife that already has a properly ground edge and just keep it sharp with a simple stone and strop. My Dozier only requires a couple swipes on the worn DMT to restore an edge. If I want to go from shaving sharp to scary sharp I strop a couple dozen wipes on compound loaded leather.


Spotshooter
I like Edge Pro. I do agree with you concerning ultimate sharpness. I just don't think surgery sharp scalpels are necessary or even desirable in a hunting knife.They are fun to play with and show off, so have fun my friend.

I like the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It's a great system that keeps a very sharp edge without ruining your blades.

Eric