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Start with a light weight "A" barrel, 22" long.

Don't need any sights.

I like the look of the Alexander-Henry forearm.

Mount a 2-7X compact Burris scope.

Light weight sling.

Should be the perfect old guy's squirrel gun.

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[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee71/freedumb1/IMG_0772.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i228.photobucket.com/albums/ee71/freedumb1/IMG_0771.jpg[/img]





If there is any proof of a man in a hunt it is not whether he killed a deer but how he hunted it.
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If they did offer one of those, I would buy it.

I guess I could buy a #1 and rebarrel it... but that extractor scares me.


There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway
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Is it yours, or is it for sale somewhere?

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Thanks for posting pictures of the 22 rifle. Pretty nice installation of the sleeve, had to look for it. The nose of the extractor is beveled isn't it? I reckon to keep the supported chamber of the rimfire; looks like a nice way to do the extractor to me.

I have a twin, or pretty similar to the one you pictured, I sleeved a Ruger 1A to 22lr and 17 HM2, but used a bit more simple extractor that has worked ok for a while now.

I will study the extractor you pictured, probably is a good update to mine perhaps once I understand it a bit more.

appreciate the pictures, a rimfire no.1 will grow on you more and more......... :-) I have two No.1 rimfire rifles now, and planning for a 17hmr and 17wsm..........just to say I did it once sorta speak.

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This conversion was done by a shop in Michigan, yes it is a sleeved barrel.

Cost I feel was reasonable, $350 for the labor, $35 for liner.

Throws spent casings over right shoulder.


If there is any proof of a man in a hunt it is not whether he killed a deer but how he hunted it.
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I have grown to like the sleeved approach. I have found that the accuracy of the sleeved barrels rivals or equals some aftermarket barrels that I have.Fairly enlightening to me.

Lots of the timing work is already done just sitting there if you use an old barrel off the rifle. But then you have to do the old chamber plug, set the barrel back(my opinion only) and ream the old bore/new plug to the sleeve's diameter plus some. I was too poor for a piloted drill for the liner install, so I used a straight chucking reamer on an extension; really helps with the cosmetics at the muzzle. I am a fan of the new retainer adhesives.

Some years ago, I got interested in these guns, a No.1 rimfire, but no one would make one up for me, so I just had to do it myself. Went thru all the throes of lifting arm versus breechblock firing pin position, finally settled in on the breechblock method as a removable bushing can allow for different rimfire calibers. The ejector can be daunting, but after a while, kinda comes to you with some new skills. The ejector in the pictured rifle is the best renditon that I have seen so far, beats my simplistic blade extractor by a ways, but cannot complain on my blade type either; but the pictured one is much more pleasing.

The fellow that did the work needs to be complimented on his technique, tis nicely done.

I know you will enjoy the new acquisition a lot.........feels like a rifle; just a swell rifle to be sure....impressive.

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Man, that is a PEACH!

I LOVE it!

What was the donor rifle? I love the Circassan walnut!

Mitch, it you ever want to sell that thing, I am your man!!

Todd

P.S. Would you please PM me the gunsmith's info?

Last edited by BigSkyGuy; 11/28/14.
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That's very nice.

Too bad about the ugly wood(grin)

Wow JUST Wow

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[Linked Image]

Here is the above pic cropped, enlarged, and gamma corrected.

Oi, that looks good.


There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. -Ernest Hemingway
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Originally Posted by BigSkyGuy
Man, that is a PEACH!

I LOVE it!

What was the donor rifle? I love the Circassan walnut!

Mitch, it you ever want to sell that thing, I am your man!!

Todd

P.S. Would you please PM me the gunsmith's info?


ClarkM, thanks for the help with the enlargement of the photo.

Todd, Sent you a link to the Gun Shop. Here again, Michigan Gunshop
The guy at Ruger really took care of me on the stock. It is a little bit of a sad story. This is Ruger No.1, serial number 751 !!!

I purchased the rifle, and when it showed up, both the forearm and the buttstock had numerous cracks!! So I ended up sending it to Ruger for some new wood, (I believe it cost me $275) and the Ruger guy literally had to fit the buttstock to the receiver because it required hand fitting!! (Still a slight gap at tang.)
I'm hoping the massive recoil of the .22 LR won't crack the buttstock!! wink
So it started life as an S22L, 22" light weight barrel, no sights, Beavertail forearm,.243 Winchester.
Johnson's also added the front sling swivel to the barrel, (AB's have a sling stud in the wood of the Beavertail forearm)
Now it is the rifle you see above, and I could not be happier!!!

Mitch


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Yep, I would say you done good!!

Beautiful!

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Yep, I would say you done good!!

Beautiful!

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Johnson's are good people1 Bought several guns from them


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A beautiful rifle. I have a #3 in 223 that I have been thinking about doing that very same thing. Wondering how they handled the firing pin problem did they bush the block or shorten the link? Also have been thinking about the ejector and how to execute it may start it long and use the reamer to finish it.
Also wondering how it is to load?
Thanks Chris


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Originally Posted by ctw
A beautiful rifle. I have a #3 in 223 that I have been thinking about doing that very same thing. Wondering how they handled the firing pin problem did they bush the block or shorten the link? Also have been thinking about the ejector and how to execute it may start it long and use the reamer to finish it.
Also wondering how it is to load?
Thanks Chris


Chris,

About the only question I can answer is it is easy to load. Part of that is I went with a nice little scope so I have some clearance.


I'll take some more close-ups for anybody that would like to see. (Will post soon.)

Mitch


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Thant would be great, Thank You! Could you take one with the action closed to show how high the breech block is?


What you have done is not nearly as important as how you have done it!!!
The Old Fart 2008 A.D.
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Originally Posted by ctw
Thant would be great, Thank You! Could you take one with the action closed to show how high the breech block is?


Here is what I have. Let me know if there are some shots that would be more helpful.


Barrel tip and crown, flawless.
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As I start raising the breechblock.
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The conversion rifle is top rifle.
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I kinda like the idea of the extractor tip having the most contact with the cartridge during the rear movement of said extractor, a formed cut on the hook does that. Certainly more than just a simplistic blade extractor.

One of the later pictures seem to show that the extractor cut(barrel recess) does extend into the chamber proper. I am not sure that I could do that on a rimfire chamber unless the extractor was fully supported, just my own very conservative opinion.

I would surmise from another later picture that the breechblock has been machined for a new firing pin position, just guessing from the height.

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Thank You very much for the pictures. wondering if the spent cases show any swelling where the extractor is? At one point I was thinking a swap barrel would be very nice I had the crazy thought of machining the 22 barrel off center to take care of the firing pin location and the extractor would be on a spring loaded pin with a cut to leave the original in place. I still may try at some point. They make a 22 caliber insert for the 40 and 45 caliber rifles that was a thought at one point as well. I am interested in the blade extractor could a picture be posted of it?
Maybe I will just leave the rifle as a 223 so I can reload for it may even be cheaper than current 22 ammo.


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ctw,

The offset shank method is a third method of conversion. In my opinion to do it nicely, one needs a large lathe spindle diameter to do the offset shank. I also think one needs a larger diameter barrel blank to keep the barrel exterior cosmetics(taper) looking factory.

The blade extractor is just one of many terms used for the extractor used in a lot of todays ots rimfire firearms. Usually has a 45 degree or so slot cut in the barrel face and the extractor nose has a flattish edge that purchases the rim tangentially in one spot. The extractor cut does not intrude into the chamber proper but the slot in the barrel face is very close to that. Take a looksee at the typical Ruger or High Standard pistol for visuals.

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