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Joined: Sep 2004
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Oh my.


Your Every Liberal vote promotes Socialism and is an
attack on the Second Amendment. You will suffer the consequences.

GOA,Idaho2AIAlliance,AmericanFirearmsAssociation,IdahoTrappersAssociation,FoundationForWildlifeManagement ID and MT.

BP-B2

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Originally Posted by JGray
Originally Posted by DigitalDan
A #3 in .22 Hornet with new wood would shoot any load, any bullet into .7", any day of the week.

Love my restocked #3 with reshaped lever and new barrel (22 K-Hornet).

[Linked Image][Linked Image]

10 and 5 shot groups at 100 yds
[Linked Image]


Yeah, that's what I'm talkin' about! YEE HAW!


I am..........disturbed.

Concerning the difference between man and the jackass: some observers hold that there isn't any. But this wrongs the jackass. -Twain


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Originally Posted by JGray

[Linked Image]


sweet! I like the look of custom #3's like that one


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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I'd been shooting #1S 218 Bee when a friend told me about this custom #3 he saw at the LGS on the used rack. He's a lefty and the single shot interested him but he pondered on it too long (I was afraid it was going to get away whistle). Out of guilt for buying it out from under him, I sold him my 218 Bee.

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I saw a K hornet like that in California, but it got away before I could amass the funds.

I have a #1B now in .218. Assuming I can ever find brass (or enough .25-20's to reform) I'll look forward to shooting it.


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

IC B2

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How much brass you need to get it running? I might be able to help - I came into 800 pieces of once fired when I had the Bee. My friend got most of it with the rifle but I kept a bag of loaded rounds intending to pull bullets and give him the rest of the brass which never happened. Initially, I had some issues getting the K-Hornet shooting and was considering going back to the Bee with it so decided to hang on to the brass. I'm pretty sure I still have it packed away somewhere, but not sure how much (want to say at least 50)...

I've been tempted a couple times to try and get the Bee back - he doesn't shoot it and I have a #1A 7x57 he wants. I probably could work a trade and end up with a large bucket of brass. Dang - now the wheels are turning... shocked

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50 would be excellent to get started, at least let me determine whether or not it's a shooter.


"...the designer of the .270 Ingwe cartridge!..."

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Just dug them out and have a bit more than I remembered. PM an address and I'll gift you 50 (Campfire goodwill and all grin). That will leave me some to maybe play with a Bee again someday. This now has me envisioning a tapered octagon 218 Bee barrel on my #1A... crazy

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The latest #1s are definitely the best IME. My current black-pad 7x57 is a tack driver.


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I have a #1-B SS Lam in 7mm STW, with factory ammo, Nosler 160 Accubonds, my last range trip I shot a 3 shot group of .78 inches at 200 yards. My dad has a #1-B Sporter in 243, he can take a ten shot group of factory Remington 90 grain Scirrocos at 100 yards and cover it with a nickle. Just a matter of finding what load each rifle likes.

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Mine is a #1H in 405 Winchester, but it shoots just fine for my liking. 100 yards with a 300 grain Barnes XFB.

[Linked Image]

The rifle is not much in the wood dept., but it shoots.


[Linked Image]

Last edited by the_shootist; 11/30/14.

"Keep thy heart with all diligence; for out of it are the issues of life." (Prov 4:23)

Brother Keith

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Nice - I think I'd really enjoy one in 405. I did pick one up in 450/400 NE but haven't worked with it much, other than reduced loads and cast bullets.

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Even the 405 comes back with full house #1 style loads. I was getting 2450 to 2500 ft/sec with a 300 grain bullet, which is about 200 to 250 ft/sec over factory.

I imagine the 450/400 would do likewise.


"Keep thy heart with all diligence; for out of it are the issues of life." (Prov 4:23)

Brother Keith

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Agreed - with similar weight bullets, I wouldn't expect much difference between the two. I do have a 405, but in a Win 1895 (repro) that is easily my favorite lever action.

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My is early 80's vintage 1B in .280 Rem. Right out of the box it was giving pretty much full-choke patterns at 100 yards. After bedding the area where the forearm screw goes in, tinkering with screw tightness, and messing with seating depth it is now shooting 1-1.25 3 shot groups with 140 Sierra GK and 175 Speer GS.

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My faux #1 AH in 257 Roberts
[Linked Image]
Will do this quite regularly, and it loves 110gr Accubonds.
[Linked Image]


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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
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A mid 1970s production #1V in .22-250 with a very long throat shoots consistent 5/8inch five shot groups. My #3 in .223 shot 3/4 inch five shot groups. I have since sold the #3.

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257Deland,

I like the looks of that rifle with the front sight removed. Did you just remove the sight, or did you shorten the barrel to remove the sight?

I like the idea of having sights as backup in the event of scope failure, but they can be a PITA. They catch in the lining of a soft case, and they stick up into the FOV of the scope. Actually, scope failures are rare, and it would take time to remove a scope in the field and require a screwdriver. So maybe I'll have the sight removed from my #1A 7x57. Only problem is it would decrease the value should I decide to resell.

Another thing I dislike about the #1 is the screwey quarter rib. The thing weighs a ton and makes the scope sit higher than necessary (I like them low). But you can't just take of the quarter rib because it leaves unsightly threaded holes in the barrel exposed, not to mention those ugly pins that hold the rib in place.

I have this idea to replace the quarter rib with a mount of my own design. The mount would use the existing threaded holes and pins in the barrel, but it would be very low profile in the front thus allowing a scope to be mounted lower without the object bell hitting the rib. I would contour it the same as the barrel so it lays flush with the barrel. It would stay low profile from front to back except it would be raised in two spots where the Talley vertical split scope rings attach. Both rings would be positioned about 3/4" to the rear of where the existing Ruger rings attach to the quarter rib. The rear ring would sit directly above the receiver ring. This would allow the scope to be mounted about 3/4" farther back than it is now in the standard rings. This new base would be machined from aluminum to conserve weight, anodized gloss black of course to match the blued barrel and receiver.

Another thing I want to modify is the safety slide. I dislike the stock unit that blocks cartridges from ejecting clear of the rifle, and looks crappy the way it gaps up from the receiver and moves around freely. I really like the safety mod that is dome by Hamilton Bowen, but I'm not sure i would go quite that far. Maybe just shortening the front extension to allow cartridges to eject free of the rifle would be sufficient.

Sorry to ramble.


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It's a re-barreled 1A with a 24" Shilen chrome moly 1:9 chambered in 257 Roberts with a 1B quarter rib; made myself an AH. Weighs 7-11 with a VXII 2-7 in Burris low rings.

Last edited by 257Deland; 12/12/14.

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When did they began making better barrels and which is supposed to be of later vintage, red or black pad ?

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