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I'm thinking if your running a lead sled, you may want to look at a smaller cartridge.
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Wow, you guys really hate sleds!
I don't use one much, in this case I wanted to try some longer range work and was looking for data first and then try various positions after I knew what the Gun would do. My friend has used this sled on some truly large caliber guns for years with no issues but non-the less, will try it next time off a bipod or bags to eliminate the sled.
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"will try it next time off a bipod or bags to eliminate the sled."
The sled is only a problem if has caused damage to the scope or rifle. It's not like it won't shoot because of the sled but it will shoot when shooting off bags.The sled has either caused damage which is your problem or your problem is something else.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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Understood.
I will add when I removed the rear scope base, there was some gunk underneath that looked like dried oil. A friend mentioned that he felt if the base was indeed the correct profile, there shouldn't have been enough space for oil or anything else to get underneath and he wondered if there was an imperceptible amount of rocking on the base. I know when installed, the action and bases were clean. Could be nothing.
Will also take another look at the bore and give an extra good clean in case there is more copper in there than I think. The bullets I was shooting here AccuBonds and TSX's.
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You are using a copper dissolving compound to clean? Double check the crown make sure it won't snag on a cotton swab. Just trying to think of everything.
If you're reloading try a few factory rounds just to make sure something hasn't gone wrong there.
Last edited by R_H_Clark; 12/19/14.
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R H, Thanks for all the input, I appreciate it.
I would have to look at my cleaning kit to see what the solution is, but will probably use a bore-shine or similar solvent to clean the barrel before the next go. Pretty sure I haven't had issues with the crown snagging but good to double check.
I have yet to shoot factory ammo out of this rifle. Could try that, though the reloading procedures used have been pretty meticulous. 300wm loads were loaded for a different rifle about the same time using the same process (same powder measure, press, checking runout, etc). We've loaded two different times with the same bad results...I don't *think* it's in the hand loading procedure.
Not saying you're wrong, just clarifying where I'm coming from.
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Please don't throw my lead sled in the trash Geej. I think these guys are full of it. I have been shooting off that sled for years and have never had a scope have a problem. Plus the tables were icy and the thing wasn't bolted to the table.
"To study without a book is to sail an uncharted sea, While to study only from books is not to go to sea at all" Sir William Osler
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Screw you! I'm voting for Trump again!
Ecc 10:2
The heart of the wise inclines to the right, but that of a fool to the 24HCF.
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R H, Thanks for all the input, I appreciate it.
I would have to look at my cleaning kit to see what the solution is, but will probably use a bore-shine or similar solvent to clean the barrel before the next go. Pretty sure I haven't had issues with the crown snagging but good to double check.
I have yet to shoot factory ammo out of this rifle. Could try that, though the reloading procedures used have been pretty meticulous. 300wm loads were loaded for a different rifle about the same time using the same process (same powder measure, press, checking runout, etc). We've loaded two different times with the same bad results...I don't *think* it's in the hand loading procedure.
Not saying you're wrong, just clarifying where I'm coming from. I understand. It's not likely ammo related if you are using the same load that it was shooting and everything is correct but I was just trying to eliminate all variables. This one is a puzzler. The Lead sled may not be causing any problems but they have in the past with heavy kickers. Again, just trying to cover all the guesses.
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Don't worry Stephen, I won't throw your sled away.  Please don't throw my rifle away either.
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RH, Thanks again.
For now I think my course of action is to double check/clean the bore, install scope in new bases making sure the front screw isn't touching the barrel threads and try once more.
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The factory ammo is an excellent idea. Remove yet one more variable..
"I have sworn upon the altar of God, eternal hostility against every form of tyranny over the mind of man."
Thomas Jefferson
GeoW, The "Unwoke" ...Let's go Brandon!
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Easy to over-estimate the rig and under-estimate the ammo...
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Really appreciate the info here. Thanks much for posting it.
Thanks
Jim
BE STRONG IN THE LORD, AND IN HIS MIGHTY POWER. ~ Ephesians 6:10
Socialism is a philosophy of failure,
the creed of ignorance,
and the gospel of envy,
its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery.
--Winston Churchill
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Pulled this oldie up today and referenced it yet again. This is my 4th Montana that I've purchased new. They all needed these "tweeks". Thanks again SAS!
Buy once, cry once.
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Campfire 'Bwana
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Of all the Montana's I've had, none required the magazine box to be altered. None.
8400's don't need the front base screw to be altered, only the 84L/M's "require" it. I've only done it on a couple out of the many 84's I've had, yet all of them would shoot something sub moa. Still, it's a good idea as a matter of course.
IMO, bedding the full receiver and shank (or at least the forward receiver/shank), and tuning the trigger to a light (sub 3lb) pull are the very best "fixes" for the Kimber.
Patient persistence at the loading bench, and good bench technique are equally, if not more, important.
“Perfection is Achieved Not When There Is Nothing More to Add, But When There Is Nothing Left to Take Away” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
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Brad this 84 M needed the mag box tweeked something fierce. It never had a round through it yet outside the factory but the paint was already scratched up pretty good from the mag box binding. It was binding so bad that it would not budge until I removed the necessary material(.05").
The front base screw on the Talley was too long as well. My front action screw needed nothing. A simple lipstick test proved it was not bottoming out. As an interesting side note...both the front action screw and rear guard screw were extremely loose from the factory. They were barely more than snug...certainly less than factory spec.
Buy once, cry once.
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