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Not to bring this up again, but the non-kimber thread got me thinking. I want a very light very accurate 223 bolt gun. I want an 8 twist so I can screw around with 63-80 grain projectiles. I like the sounds of the kimber but some threads have me freaked out. I kind of want to have one built but also don't want the price tag to get past 1500. I've been looking at donor guns on broker but not sure what to look for. Not sure what a barrel costs of what kind of weight I could get it down to. I like the idea of an edge stock and custom barrel at 21-22". Not sure what action?


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Ruger American Ranch with 16" barrel. May not be VERY light (6 lbs bare rifle)....but very cheap!!!

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Or a Tikka T3 Lite at 6.2 lbs.....if you can find one of the 1-8".



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Remington action: buy an SPS or ADL and cannibalize it.$379-$449
Barrel: Your choice, lots of good ones...Will run about $600 installed for most.
McMillan edge : $600 +


Puts you in at about $1700


just a thunk...


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That was the other part of the equation, gunsmith fees. We pretty much have one place in town that I know of.


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A lot of the barrel makers will chamber and install...but some require it to be sent thru an FFL...etc etc....


The Edge is the expensive part, unless you are set on it. You can also cruise the classifieds here for a barrel, usually at a good discount than one straight from the maker..

I put together a light rifle ...223AI




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Rem Stainless SPS- cannibalized- $600
Benchmark barrel from the fire -$325 ( 1 in 8)
Gunsmith chamber, cut, finish, true action and install-$500
Remington Mtn rifle stock from the 'fire- $200

Total- $1625....


Scope is a Redfield 2x7 Revolution on Talleys







Crap.....I wish I hadn't just added that up.... shocked


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It may be too much to ask, but can the tikka or ruger be lightened up either with stock change or other? I'd like the bare gun to be in the low to mid 5's so finished with luepy 2.5-8 in galleys would be in around 6.25# or so.


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Screw that, hit your local Sportsmans warehouse and buy a Superlight Tikke 223 with the 1 in 8 twist, you'll be all done, have a great gun and no extra expenses..

And no, I don't think it can be lightened any more....not sure about the ruger.


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That's a sweet PiC ingwe

Last edited by salmonhead; 12/20/14.

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You could get a Sako A7 and put an edge stock in it.

I did that with my 25-06

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Originally Posted by salmonhead
That's a sweet PUC ingwe



Thanks....Im waiting on a Mc Millan Mtn. rifle stock for it.


It would seem Im the wrong looney to ask about how to put one of these together at a good price.... cry


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http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/9349000/Re_Another_223AI#Post9349000

I helped a buddy put this faux Ti together. For about $1,000
$300 donor action. (Local deal for him)
$445 ITD gunsmithing and Douglas barrel
$300 for high tech specialties stock, trigger guard, and finish work
-$85 for selling the factory barrel.

Pick up a donor at Walmart right now for $377 and get the $35 rebate before the end of the year.


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Originally Posted by salmonhead
It may be too much to ask, but can the tikka or ruger be lightened up either with stock change or other? I'd like the bare gun to be in the low to mid 5's so finished with luepy 2.5-8 in galleys would be in around 6.25# or so.



Point your nose closer to the ground and buy a Tikka T3, lite or superlite. Yes I own both ..... and a Kimber (or two).

Does a few ounces really matter? And how many posts with accuracy issues regarding the Tikka T3 have you seen?

If you don't like the Tikka stock, look at a B&C medalist and pick your color.

I have a headache.


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Another +1 on ingwe's recommendation!

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What gun as a donor exactly? What's CM stand for? I'm new at this, bear with me.


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Originally Posted by 257heaven
Or a Tikka T3 Lite at 6.2 lbs.....if you can find one of the 1-8".



Tikka T3 super lite from sportsman's warehouse comes with stainless fluted barrel 1/8 twist and is 5.8 lbs.

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I guess a few ounces don't matter. I've always wanted an actual light gun. All my stuff weighs 9-10# hunting weight. For its intended purpose as a walk around gun, and future child's gun, I'd like it to hunt in the low 6's. The further south of 7# the better.
All great advice. I appreciate it.


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Shodd, that would certainly fit the bill, but not sure where the nearest sportsman warehouse is to Michigan. Is that something my local guy could order me? He deals tikka.


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Originally Posted by salmonhead
Shodd, that would certainly fit the bill, but not sure where the nearest sportsman warehouse is to Michigan. Is that something my local guy could order me? He deals tikka.


The superlites are exclusive only to sportsman warehouse and apparently there are no sportmans warehouse in Michigan.

I'm not sure how you'd go about getting one?


Shod


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Originally Posted by salmonhead
What gun as a donor exactly? What's CM stand for? I'm new at this, bear with me.


Rem 700 ADL
CM - chromoly (not stainless)

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Originally Posted by salmonhead
I guess a few ounces don't matter. I've always wanted an actual light gun. All my stuff weighs 9-10# hunting weight. For its intended purpose as a walk around gun, and future child's gun, I'd like it to hunt in the low 6's. The further south of 7# the better.
All great advice. I appreciate it.


Seven pounds compared to 9+ pounds is a big deal.

But 8 oz does not matter even if you are fat and out-of-shape or the complete opposite.

Ask yourself, do you want a factory rifle that shoots tiny group (less money) or a rifle that you can brag to your friends about and also shoots tiny groups (more money)?

There are many options today but discover what is most important to you.

P.S. Take money out of the equation and the 'cool' factor.


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Originally Posted by salmonhead
I guess a few ounces don't matter. I've always wanted an actual light gun. All my stuff weighs 9-10# hunting weight. For its intended purpose as a walk around gun, and future child's gun, I'd like it to hunt in the low 6's. The further south of 7# the better.
All great advice. I appreciate it.


Those really light rifles are really tough to shoot in the field. It's entirely possible to overdo the lightweight deal.

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Originally Posted by FAIR_CHASE
Originally Posted by salmonhead
I guess a few ounces don't matter. I've always wanted an actual light gun. All my stuff weighs 9-10# hunting weight. For its intended purpose as a walk around gun, and future child's gun, I'd like it to hunt in the low 6's. The further south of 7# the better.
All great advice. I appreciate it.


Seven pounds compared to 9+ pounds is a big deal.

But 8 oz does not matter even if you are fat and out-of-shape or the complete opposite.

Ask yourself, do you want a factory rifle that shoots tiny group (less money) or a rifle that you can brag to your friends about and also shoots tiny groups (more money)?

There are many options today but discover what is most important to you.

P.S. Take money out of the equation and the 'cool' factor.



If you throw your rifle to your shoulder and look through the scope with an 8 oz weight hanging from the trigger guard its barely noticeable.

Take the same 8 oz and hang it off the end of the barrel and it becomes a lot more noticeable.

In this regard fluted barrels are a really nice way to shed lbs.

Shod


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Originally Posted by Shodd
Originally Posted by salmonhead
Shodd, that would certainly fit the bill, but not sure where the nearest sportsman warehouse is to Michigan. Is that something my local guy could order me? He deals tikka.


The superlites are exclusive only to sportsman warehouse and apparently there are no sportmans warehouse in Michigan.

I'm not sure how you'd go about getting one?


Shod


And Scheels.

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Originally Posted by Shodd
Originally Posted by FAIR_CHASE
Originally Posted by salmonhead
I guess a few ounces don't matter. I've always wanted an actual light gun. All my stuff weighs 9-10# hunting weight. For its intended purpose as a walk around gun, and future child's gun, I'd like it to hunt in the low 6's. The further south of 7# the better.
All great advice. I appreciate it.


Seven pounds compared to 9+ pounds is a big deal.

But 8 oz does not matter even if you are fat and out-of-shape or the complete opposite.

Ask yourself, do you want a factory rifle that shoots tiny group (less money) or a rifle that you can brag to your friends about and also shoots tiny groups (more money)?

There are many options today but discover what is most important to you.

P.S. Take money out of the equation and the 'cool' factor.



If you throw your rifle to your shoulder and look through the scope with an 8 oz weight hanging from the trigger guard its barely noticeable.

Take the same 8 oz and hang it off the end of the barrel and it becomes a lot more noticeable.

In this regard fluted barrels are a really nice way to shed lbs.

Shod


I don't believe we are talking about using a suppressor or not.

Did you miss the post where I stated I use a fluted barrel T3?

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Originally Posted by prairie_goat
Originally Posted by salmonhead
I guess a few ounces don't matter. I've always wanted an actual light gun. All my stuff weighs 9-10# hunting weight. For its intended purpose as a walk around gun, and future child's gun, I'd like it to hunt in the low 6's. The further south of 7# the better.
All great advice. I appreciate it.


Those really light rifles are really tough to shoot in the field. It's entirely possible to overdo the lightweight deal.


I agree prairy goat! I've settled on a preference of 6 1/2-7 1/2 lbs or so much over 5 lbs. I do really like the super lite tikka and the only difference is the fluted barrel and price.

A fella could always get a tikka lite and have the barrel fluted and you'd be right there.

Shod


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Originally Posted by prairie_goat
Originally Posted by salmonhead
I guess a few ounces don't matter. I've always wanted an actual light gun. All my stuff weighs 9-10# hunting weight. For its intended purpose as a walk around gun, and future child's gun, I'd like it to hunt in the low 6's. The further south of 7# the better.
All great advice. I appreciate it.


Those really light rifles are really tough to shoot in the field. It's entirely possible to overdo the lightweight deal.


So 22 rimfire rifles should weigh in excess of XX lbs to shoot well? I have experienced that rifles larger than .22 cal center fire may be more difficult to shoot in the extreme light weight versions. But we are talking .223 here.

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Originally Posted by prairie_goat
Originally Posted by salmonhead
I guess a few ounces don't matter. I've always wanted an actual light gun. All my stuff weighs 9-10# hunting weight. For its intended purpose as a walk around gun, and future child's gun, I'd like it to hunt in the low 6's. The further south of 7# the better.
All great advice. I appreciate it.


Those really light rifles are really tough to shoot in the field. It's entirely possible to overdo the lightweight deal.


What do you consider optimum weight for a 223 bolt action?

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Originally Posted by FAIR_CHASE


So 22 rimfire rifles should weigh in excess of XX lbs to shoot well? I have experienced that rifles larger than .22 cal center fire may be more difficult to shoot in the extreme light weight versions. But we are talking .223 here.


Heavier rifles are easier to shoot in the field. Regardless of chambering. A balance of weight to portability is the key for a hunting gun.

Balance of the rifle itself is just as important. A 6.5 lb. NULA rifle is a lot easier to shoot well than a muzzle light Remington model Seven of similar weight.

Originally Posted by keystoneben


What do you consider optimum weight for a 223 bolt action?


It really depends on what you're looking to do.

The perfect rifle for shooting prairie dogs for hours on end from a static position will be much different than the perfect rifle for packing from stand to stand for coyotes.

For a nice balance of portability to shootability, somewhere around 7-8 lbs. all up works nicely for me. That's for any hunting rifle (short of the real heavy kickers), not just the 223. I've had a bunch on both sides of that number, and I keep coming back to rifles of that weight range.

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To the OP

You can certianly have a custom come out in your price range with careful shopping and have a great rifle.

If I wanted to built a new 223 tomorrow here is how I would go about it

remington 700 223 from walmart $377 with $40 rebate if you buy before the end of the year= $337 plus tax

Send the action to IT&D gunsmithing for either a remington sporter contour (this makes shopping for used stocks easier) or a #2 contour Douglas stainless 8 twist barrel. Price will be about $350 with shipping, I would spring for the extra $45 to beadblast the barrel unless you want to ceracoat the whole thing at some point.

If you are handy with basic tools and don't mind having to do some stock work yourself Look at a Bansner/High tech specialties stock ($270) or a bell and carlson Ti ($250).

If you aren't too handy go ahead and spring for the Mcmillan edge ($575 through the campfire) because it will only require bedding.

Also watch for deals on used stocks, If you are patient one will come along. I recently bought a Micky Edge for $300 in nice shape that just required rebedding to my rifle.

This puts you in a nice rifle for $1000 on the low end to $1400 on the high end and you will be pleased with the results I bet.

Prairie Goat is right about the weight/balance thing as well.
I have played around with the flyweights but for ease of shooting my favorite 22 cal rifle right now is my 223 AI that is between 7.25 and 7.5 pounds all up.

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I am in the same boat with others above. 7.0 to 8.25 lbs all up seems to be the best all around weight for me. I also prefer a little bit muzzle heavy for off hand shooting. As mentioned, if you are patient (and quick!) you can generally pick up serviceable used stuff in the classifieds for well under the new retail price.



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Originally Posted by salmonhead
That was the other part of the equation, gunsmith fees. We pretty much have one place in town that I know of.


Eddie Fosnaugh is a 3 hour drive for you

http://fosnaughcustoms.com/index.html


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I�d keep your eyes open for a tikka fluted superlight. I picked this one up used for $700 dollars w/ leupy vxIII 4.5-14. Even with the leupy 4.5-14x40 its still very light and shoots tiny little groups with bullets in the 65-75gr range. It particularly likes the ultramax 68gr MHP load. Really hard to get upset when a rifle shoots cheap ammo so well!

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Originally Posted by FAIR_CHASE
Originally Posted by Shodd
Originally Posted by salmonhead
Shodd, that would certainly fit the bill, but not sure where the nearest sportsman warehouse is to Michigan. Is that something my local guy could order me? He deals tikka.


The superlites are exclusive only to sportsman warehouse and apparently there are no sportmans warehouse in Michigan.

I'm not sure how you'd go about getting one?


Shod


And Scheels.


Does Scheels offer an 8 twist 223 Superlite, or Lite, in stainless?

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They did. You may still locate one through them.

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I'd skip the Edge stock.

It sounds to me like what you really need is a 700 LVSF with a fast twist. Look around for one used / shot out in .223 or .17 Remington and replace the barrel with a fast twist .22.

Alternatively, I think you could start with a 700 SPS, replace the stock with a B&C, and change the barrel. Within budget.


Anyone who thinks there's two sides to everything hasn't met a M�bius strip.

Here be dragons ...
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