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Joined: Dec 2003
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I've got a FL die set for a bottle neck, rimmed cartridge. Got a shell-holder, and a Lee case length gage.

About as much as I have for any case I reload for.

What is next? Lee factory crimp die? Wilson case length headspace gage? Neck sizer die?

Is the wilson gage important for a cartridge that headspaces off the rim?

Will a neck sizer die(in a lever action) minimize working the brass?

Thanks,

Sycamore


Originally Posted by jorgeI
...Actually Sycamore, you are sort of right....
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Lee case trimmer-Muddy

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Originally Posted by muddy22
Lee case trimmer-Muddy


got that, I 've been calling it

Quote
Lee case length gage


should have called it Lee case length gage/trimmer

thanks,

Sycamore


Originally Posted by jorgeI
...Actually Sycamore, you are sort of right....
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You have a decent calipers?

You have a decent hand primer?

You have a Lee neck die for the cartridge you shoot most?

You have a chronograph?

Those are kinda musts IMO but you didn't say.

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got calipers, got hand primer, got chronograph

don't have a neck sizing die, or a Lee factory crimp die

Or a wilson case gage. I'm trying to figure the benefit for a wilson case gage for a cartridge that headspaces on the rim?

I guess it can still tell you if your shoulder is too far forward

Sycamore


Originally Posted by jorgeI
...Actually Sycamore, you are sort of right....
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You've got plenty...just sit down and go to loading. Your wants and needs will grow as you become more seasoned. Those tools will take you on an exciting adventure Sycamore. I've never grown tired of reloading...even after 40 years. I've loaded the 25-20, 22-250, 250Savage, 257R, 270W, 7X57, 338F, 338-06, 358W and probably a few I have forgotten about. powdr

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For certain applications (lever guns with tubular magazines, etc.), I religiously use a Lee FCD. Love 'em...esp at $9.95.


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I'd consider getting a press as most of your other reloading stuff is somewhat worthless without one.

Shod


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I should have been more specific. Or typed slower grin

I have been reloading for about 20 years, for several rimless bottle necked rifle cartridges, used in bolt action rifles and three pistol/revolver cartridges.

I am going to start reloading for a rimmed rifle cartridge in a lever action rifle. looking for ways to minimize working the brass.

Sycamore


Originally Posted by jorgeI
...Actually Sycamore, you are sort of right....
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I'd recommend a box of factory ammo or maybe two from different companies and fire their loads over your chronograph.
With a new to me rifle I like to see what I can reasonably expect from that rifle as a baseline before I start working up loads.
Am I being too cautious?
Am I running pressures too high?
I'm no expert but I do like having a starting point and, keep good notes documenting loads and velocities is important.

It'll give you some fired brass too so you can set your dies to not bump the shoulder back too much on reloads!
Good luck!


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You will remember a curve of your wagon track in the grass of the plain like the features of a friend."
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that's an idea I hadn't considered. thanks,

Sycamore


Originally Posted by jorgeI
...Actually Sycamore, you are sort of right....
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I'd suggest a Forester runout gauge.
Of course that might end of costing you a lot of money in the end.


You didn't use logic or reason to get into this opinion, I cannot use logic or reason to get you out of it.

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A Hornady Cam lock bullet puller. Costs about $20-25 with the correct caliber collet.
[Linked Image]


Sooner or later you will want to pull a bullet to double check powder charge, resize a case, add a primer you missed :-( or countless other reasons. This thing makes it easy & instant and spares any stress on the case or the bullet. I hated trying to use the hand held hammer types.


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I'll second the concentricity gauge. These days I would not reload without one.


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