Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Custom Rifles & Wildcats PT&G M700 one piece or rework factory bolt?

Just planning my blueprint of two M700 actions I have. I'd really like to TI flute the bolts and skeletonize the bolt handles. One has the J-lock so I'll be replacing the firing pin and shroud as well. I'll probably have the bolt handles tig welded on as well if I stick with the factory bolts. So I'm wondering if I just shouldn't get a couple of new one piece bolts from PT&G and sell off my old to recoup some of the cost if I'm going to do all the other work anyway?

Cost and fitting the new bolt + headspacing could get expensive, tig welding and TI fluting would more than likely be cheaper and would be a nice edition to your new rifle!

I'd go the ptg bolts. You can pick whatever extractor you want. M16 is a good choice. Sell your old bolts and recoup some $.

Agreed, headspacing is a bitch on actions.

This is a good question, I need to run the numbers myself as I have a couple to do.

In my case, I would include the cost of spiral fluting and skeletonizing.

What do stainless 700 bolts sell for used?

Send it to Dan at Accu-tig. He does great work.

I'm actually in the debate mode myself. I want to have a bolt face opened up. By the time you pay for that and have a new extractor installed you are on your way to a PTG I believe.

Another option I personally would lean towards would be just to start with a quality custom clone action. There are many good ones out there at all different price ranges and options. You can find one with pretty much all of the options above you are looking for. Good luck.

Custom actions certainly make sense. By the time you trick out an M700, you are there anyway.

Problem is I have the actions already, and I can do them a piece at a time. Money is slow right now and I don't want to pay that much up front for a custom action. I realize I might pay more on the back end but right now that's how I have to work it.

If all you want is to mod the factory then I would vote for that. If your opening or installing a tube then PTG makes sense. Your gun wont be more accurate with new bolt. So unless your building, the one trick at a time approach... JMO

W

Both actions will be getting new tubes, as neither are what I want them to be.

I would go PTG. You will get fluted bolt with solid bolt handle and threaded for use of many different bolt knobs. Also order the bolt body diameter to fit your specific actions size.

If your going to rebarrel than PTG would be a good option, but if you are going with TI fluting and skeletonized handle than you will need to send it to Karl!

For a hunting rifle I would definitely have Dan tig weld it on after the flute. He understands bolt timing and yours will cycle easier. I did the PT&G bolt with flutes, 060 firing pin , and ended up with an additional $325 invested. I had to cut the rear of the lugs to get the headspace in specs. This was on my Grandson's deer rifle.





It wasn't worth the extra money. Should have stayed with the factory bolt.

One might consider that since there is really no issue with the original extractor, and it's a $10 part if it does break, and since there is no issue with many millions of handles already in service, and since fluting serves no real purpose...

And since it's your money, you guys can finish the thought...

Top Cat, I didn't want mine to look like yours. It probably won't kill a deer any better, but Grandson loves it.

I'm not changing the extractor and "if" I go with PT&G I'm using the Remington extractor as well. As far as fluting the bolt because I like the way it looks same with the skeletonized handle. I'm going to change the bolt release as well eventually to a side mounted one. I'm kind of done buying rifles for awhile and I just want to progress on a couple of builds I've been planning for awhile.

Butch...just a quick reply advocating for the Devil in general, and not in response to your post.

You do have a nice combo action there, and it's definitely a different animal. Hard to call it a Remy still. It's a M70/Remy meets Howa best-of-all-worlds. Those aren't pointless mods, and if it's all squared up it's even better.

If it's only 3 bills and a little change to get it there, I'd say that's a pretty good deal!

I wish it was 3 bills only. That was for the bolt assembly less the 3 POS safety. The receiver had the raceway reamed and the rest of the receiver squared to the raceways. The rear tang screw was enlarged to 1/4"X28 and an external bolt release was added. This is a 600 receiver. I had a cut made on the LH side of the receiver, both for aesthetics and a little lighter.


You can see where the front of the loading port has a notch to allow a long seated cartridge to be ejected. It is in 6X47L set uo for 85 grain bullets.