Home Forums Fishing Freshwater Baitcaster setup - more distance?

Hi all,

I grew up using spinning reels exclusively. Baitcasters were viewed as only used for bass in the southern US so no one I know has any. About 5 years ago I decided to try a baitcast setup, mainly to reduce line twist and for a more direct drag system with pike. I like the system so far, but I am struggling to match the distance I can achieve with a spinning outfit.

My current baitcast setup is a Abu Garcia Revo S on a G Loomis IMX CR 723 - 6'. I usually use Suffix 832 in 8 lb as my line on this rig with a fluoro leader. I've played with lightening up the spool tension to the point where I border backlashes but the max distance I get is 15-20 yards. Is this the max that I should expect or is there something wrong with my setup?

I have a number of spinning set ups, but my "go to" spinning set up is a Abu Garcia Soron STX 40 on a G Loomis GL2 SJR 722 6'Med. I use the same line on this unit as well. I can usually cast 35-40 yds with this rig.

I'd like to get the baitcaster figured out better. They aren't used around here much so I can usually find great deals on high end baitcast rods and reels as they are "dead stock". That's much harder to do with any good spinning rods or reels here.

Thanks in advance.


SS

Some change the bearings and lube and I use models without level wind....Shimano Trinidad 12......but that may be too large for your use.

Check with the forum at bloodydecks.com as these guys are the hotrodders of fishing tackle.

Sam:

That isn't much distance for baitcaster. Not sure what you are trying to cast, but for pike it should be something heavy enough to do better than that. Unless you are throwing a feather duster!

Before messing with the reel, I'd take the reel and a casting plug - or weight - or hookless lure to the sport shop and try different rods in the parking lot. The rod may not match what you are trying to throw. I learned this on a bass fishing trip a few years ago. I had a new Carrot Stix rod, and put at least 20% of my casts up on shore - and some of those I tried to stop. The new rod simply cast much farther than what I had used before.

Anyway, see if you can talk the folks into letting you try different rods. I've only done it once, but I learned that the rod I picked by flexing it in the store was not the best caster. But then, I'm so cheap I buy the sale rods and live with them!

I also use baitcasters for pike and prefer them over spinning reels. With spoons, jerkbaits, and swimbaits, I'm casting 40+ yards with Shimano Curado reels and an American Rodsmiths Rod. I agree that 15-20 yards is very short especially with heavy pike lures. Make sure you aren't thumbing the spool to hard. Have you checked the braking system? Check out this video. It might help you out.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dd_0HTEE5Kg

Thanks for the input so far. I took the reel apart last winter and cleaned it. Used Abu Garcia reel oil and Quantum Hot Sauce on the bearings. At the time I contemplated replacing the bearings with better ones, but I wasn't convinced that the setup up was right.

Lures range from Len Thompson 00 spoons, to Rattlin Rap #5-7, and larger swimbaits.

Would a different reel make the rod cast better? Or a different rod make the reel cast better? From what I understand, both pieces of equipment are decent which leaves me wondering if they just don't work well together.

SS

I don't have any experience with your set up but I don't think it's your rod that's causing such short casts. You should be able to cast a lure that far even if your rod is a piece of rebar. Your problem has to be somewhere in your reel or how you have your reel set up. Either you have too many brakes set or your spool tension is tight or both etc etc. Check out this article. It may help ya.
http://www.bassfishing.org/BassFishingTips-HowToTweakABaitcastingReel.htm

I went back and looked and your rod is rated right there with the size lures and line you are using. Still think it's something to do with your reel settings. I had the same problem last summer when fishing for small mouth bass on the flathead river. I couldn't cast a 1/4oz or 1/2oz jig very far but played with the brakes and spool tension and was casting them twice as far as before.

I set up a Shimano Cardiff 200 with 30 LB Power Pro on an Shakspear GX-2, 7 ft med.
The rig was set up for trolling, but it will sling a Rapala J-13 (5/8 oz) well over a hundred feet, sometimes close to 150.

DeerTracker,

Thanks for the link. I have played with the brake system in the past. It looks like I will have to dig into that a bit more and see if I can perfect it.

BTW, I like your signature line. We had that same quote put on the back of our 2014 hunting camp t-shirts for the two new guys.


SS

Sam,

The Revo S has centrifugal brakes on the left side. Pop the cover and push 4 of the six brakes in toward the center of the spool and they should lock in place. Try it at that setting and you may have to adjust to 3 or 4 on windy days.

I usually have 2 brakes in use 180 degree from each other on mine. Hope this helps.

How do you have your internal brakes set?
What weight lures are you throwing?

Also, any particular reason you're using a 6' rod? I get much, much better distance with longer rods. For me, the difference in a 7ft vs 6ft is much bigger than one would imagine.

I'm no expert on BC setups, but it seems to me that the spool tension adjustments effect the "back end" of the cast rather than the "first". If you haven't already, I'd set those internal brakes as light as you are comfortable with and then use spool tension depending on your lure weight.

I guess another way to look at it...keep turning off the internal brakes until it almost looks like your spool is going faster than your lure. I like mine to spin a little faster than the lure and use my thumb to keep it in check.

I normally always set my spool tension by the old method I was taught years ago. Hold your rod straight out with the lure your using. Release the spool and slowly let off tension until the lure falls. I usually start off with enough tension not to cause a major backlash when the lure hits the floor/water.

I don't have extensive experience with baitcasters, but I own and use them on occasion. In my opinion, I think your 8 lb test braided line is too light.

I've always been under the impression that baitcasters are to be used with heavier line such as 12 lb mono and up. This would probably translate into something like 30 lb braid as far as diameter goes.

Line that is too thin will embed into itself when wound onto the spool of a baitcaster. Spinning reels lay the line on the spool, whereas baitcasters crank it on like a winch. My guess is that your thin 8 lb braid might be embedding into itself and preventing the line from coming off the spool smoothly.

Try doing a web search for the recommended lb test braid to be used on a baitcaster. Here is some discussion on a fishing forum:

Bass Resource

How much weight are you trying to throw when you only get 15-20yd? I have a Daiwa Sol that I keep 12# Flouroclear on and with a 6'6" crankbait rod I can chunk a #10 Rapala X-rap way over 30 yd without trying hard.

Any lure lighter than 1/4oz I use a spinning rod. Its just physics, it takes some mass to turn that spool.

For bait casting I use a Quantum Tour Edition reel along with a 7 foot light action St. Croix bait casting rod. By light action I mean something rated for 6 to 12 pound line. Spooled up with mono or PowerPro I can cast your average Rapala just as far as a spinning rig.

FYI, I've been fishing with spinning gear for over 40 years and while the reels have made great strides in that time, I still view them as something that has yet to be perfected.

You are probably trying to cast your bait caster like a spinning rod. Don't expect to cast the same lightweight spinning lures you were accustomed to using. And your rod seems a bit short for best casting of light lures/baits. If you are unfamiliar, have a pro setup the reel. It wouldn't cost much to try a spool of same weight mono, to eliminate the braid being at fault.

A conventional casting reel has to overcome the inertia of the spool full of line. One trick is to nudge the spool forward, using a flick of your thumb, at just the right moment in your cast. This way the light lure does not have to overcome the spool's inertia, to start.

I have the internal weights on my Shimano set 3 in and 3 out.
The external twist knob is set light, maybe 1/4.
It takes some practice to use your thumb to stop the spool at just the moment your lure lands. To soon and you short cast, a fraction of a second too long and you have a major birds nest tangle.

Tough to beat the mid-priced Shimano's.....

I started using a 201 DC TE several years ago. Near as I can tell, my casting distance nearly doubled.

Longer rod,turn the tension and breaks down,cast overhead like you mean it.

I'd also suggest thicker line.

First make sure you have a good quality bait cast reel e.g Shimano, Diawa, Garcia, Costing about $100.or more.
Pull the left side of the reel off and you should see at least two and hopefully three high speed bearings.
1. one in middle of left side held in by a thin circular wire.
2. One on right side of the spool at base of shaft. Drive pin out & remove.
3. Hopeflly you have a third one visible looking inside on the right side butted up to the brass pinion gear.
Wash all three in brake fluid while spinning them. Brake fluid will dry in seconds; When dry, put one small drop of Hot Sauce or Kroil on each side and spin until free. If it does not spin freely repeat the cleaning process and re-oil with one drop .
Now re adjust the centrificals to two opposing and spool tension as others have advised.
IF the spool shaft is concentric (straight),
Reinstall the spool. When you push in the clutch bar the spool should spin backwards 6-10 turns with a down stroke from your finger.

If it is still sluggish you can by new ABEC Grade 5 bearings for about $10.00 each; good reels are worth it.
Tack

Tack,

I'm assuming you mean brake "clean", not brake fluid ?