Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Optics Which torque wrench is better: Wheeler Fat Handle or Weaver?

Just some observations, from someone who owns torque wrenches, and occasionally uses torque testing equipment.

1. I've always steered toward simple beam-type torque wrenches, even if they aren't always convenient. The clicker or dial type wrenches have much more complex mechanisms. They may indeed check fine when calibrated, but any corrosion or wear, and suddenly they can go on the fritz, and may do so without warning. The beam type units are unlikely to change over time, unless they are greatly damaged. As long as you buy a quality unit with guaranteed accuracy, they are unlikely to ever cause problems.

Granted, the beam type are less convenient, especially when you're doing something like F150 lug nuts at 150 ft-lbs, but screws on guns normally require much less torque, and requires only moderate hand strength.

2. Always apply a smooth, increasing effort to the wrench. If you yank or jerk the wrench you may get it to click, but the torque won't necessarily be accurate.

carry on

Brownells part No. 080-000-515AH. Magna-tip Adjustable Torque Handle.

Just looked it up. They also list a Seekonk 1-75 inch pound Variable Torque Wrench. Part No. 792-000-1AH.

I mentioned Brownells because they always hit it on the head for gunsmithing use tools.

tex,

A couple engine builders told me that they always use a beam-type torque wrench for installing heads or any time there is a gasket to compress. They thought the clickers "broke" too soon, and liked to hold the torque longer with the beam-type.

Just this afternoon a fella at worked grabbed a 1/4" Snap-on to install a mount and scope on his new Tikkler. I told him he'd better check it first. He set it to 25 in-lb, and the test fixture read 45 in-lb. He came back shocked that it was 20 in-lb off. He ended up taking a dial-type, that read exactly 25 in-lb. True story.

I have a Fat wrench. I was amazed at how much harder I had to twist with it over my normal hand tightening.

Pat, I may need to borrow your beam torque wrenches at some point and check my mounts, action screws and such... to get an idea

I actually never have used them on guns.

Apparently I am supposed to do so

Mine are a 1/2" and 3/8" drives. Both too big for guns, except barrel nuts on an AR, with the 1/2"

I reckon I oughta buy a smaller one and use it in the future. So when that happens, sure you're welcome to borrow it

For the money have really been liking the Neiko 1/4" "longshank" driver:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10573B-4-Inch-Torque-Screwdriver/dp/B000RZ1D86

I have always used the short end on the wrench supplied with the rings and turned the screw as tight as I could with thumb and index finger. Never a problem over many years. Calibrated hands I suppose.

I have 6 torque wrenches and several pressure gauges that get FAA certification every year. Have not had one of mine fail in 15 years, but I do not loan them out. Seekonk, Snap-on/CDI, Craftsman.

For things that counts you generally need to measure the running torque of the threads and add the desired value to get the final torque, ie connecting rod bolts with locking nuts. This is difficult to do with other than a dial type wrench. A click type wrench works more conveniently on lubed thread applications such as spark plugs, oil filters and cylinder hold down nuts.

My choice for scope mounting, and to set torque limiting screw drivers for delicate electronic stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00461AZ7C...d=CE2T9WUY43EL&coliid=I1GUTNFF7C3DQC

jim

I realize you are asking an either or question, but I hate both of your options. My preference is to use a Felo torque driver for the applications you note. They are a favorite of mine.