Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles First ar or tactical rifle

Yep, bolt, barrel, and magazines.

I shot it off the bags and honest cannot tell you how it recoiled, it was insignificant to me, so I guess more than a 223 but not by so much. He was shooting hornady 110 vmax. The 11.5 pound full up Ruger does not recoil much at all with 150's, I don't notice it either.

I am moving in the 6.8 direction, I want to see how 62 TTSX will work on a big pig first however, the point may be moot if that works with one shot to the shoulder.

The 6.8 or Grendel do not recoil much more than a 5.56 and not near a 308. There are more factory hunting loads for the 6.8 and more usable hunting bullets in the correct weight range. A lot of the 6.5 bullets were designed for the 260 and 6.5 Swede, they will not expand at slower velocity. Anyone that has hunted with a 5.56, 300, 6.8 and 6.5 can tell you there is a difference in terminal performance on game, especially hogs.

Yet, dead is dead. Pig might run a bit further, but its never been an issue.

like anything else, if you need DRT its shot placement more than anything.

Poke em in the lungs, all that needs doing is to ventilate both... having done so a LOT with a 22lr cci mini mag HPs and a pistol over many yeras... they have never been that hard to kill.

obviously I'm speaking of not huge pigs... our average pig that was "adult" was probably 110-120 pounds... They die right fast with a 22....

It's true that the 6.8 has more purpose built bullets and a lot more factory ammunition choices. Bullet makers had to make them in the 90-120 grain range because almost all 270 bullets are 130 and up.

The Grendel has plenty of bullets that will work just fine out to 300 yards. There was always a plethora of 6.5 bullets from 100-120 grains that will expand down to 1800 fps so there was never the need for Grendel specific bullets.

If you reload, you'll have plenty of options with the 6.5 Grendel or 6.8 SPC. If you don't you are much better off with a 6.8 SPC.

Thanks fellows. Thinking that I'm going to find a used undocumented lower and build from there. How hard is it to build a lower if you have never done it? A local gunsmith told me to buy an aluminum lower and the maker doesn't really matter because they are all made the same.

what do you guys think?

Definitely go aluminum over polymer.

They're definintely not all the same, especially when you get into billet offerings. But any name brand lower should be fine. PSA usually has some for only about $50.

is Anderson arms a good lower manufacturer. I see some for sale for 65 dollars for a stripped lower.