Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Elk Hunting Elk Bullet Advice

I've never shot an elk with the .264 but have seen plenty of similar cartridges at work. My own preference would be the 140 Nosler Partition (or even the 125), but any of the bonded bullets or "tipped" monolithics in the 120-140 grain range would work. However, my first .264 was a pre-'64 Model 70 Westerner that belonged to a local rancher for many years. He killed a bunch of elk with the 129 Hornady Interlock Spire Point and thought it was perfect. I only shot deer with it, using the 140 Speer Hot-Cor, which worked fine.

I am setting up my 300 RUM for Elk hunting. Would I be better served with a bonded bullet or a partitioned bullet or does it not really matter? I was thinking of either a 200 grain partition or a 180 grain bonded bullet.

300 Rums generally like 200gn Accubonds over either Retumbo or Rel 25.

When first released, I loaded for a couple more using AR 2217 which is H1000 in the US. It too, is a great powder for this cartridge.

John

168ttsx is my favorite otherwise. If I knew the shot was very likely to be over 400 yards I would start to lean towards the 180-200 accubond.

180 grain Nosler Partition protected point. Works on deer and hogs as well.

What is the difference between the spire point and protected point?

Yer over-thinking this thing. Go with any well-constructed bullet that gives best accuracy in your rifle...short range just doesn't matter. Know your ballistics, use a range-finder.

I've only 60 or so caribou, 20 moose, and a few assorted others under my belt (literally), with my only elk taken at 150 yards with a .260 140 grain factory Corelokt. Worked just fine.

IIRC the PP has no exposed lead tip. I think the ogive is also different.Both to better fit the short neck and deep seating in the 300 Win Mag in a 30/06 OAL box mag,but could be wrong on the ogive thing.

I believe there is still exposed lead. It is halfway between a spire point and round nose.

for the .264 i like the 130, 140 accubond, 140 partition, 120 ttsx

YUP!

My experience, as limited as it is, supports that.

My experience, as of the 2 last decades , supports that also.

Don't over think the bullet part. Spend your time getting in shape and making sure you will hit where you aim. The rest will take care of itself.

My personal choices vary from year to year and the rifle I'm using but my .300WM gets 180g North Fork SS, Barnes MRX (TTSX predecessor), TTSX and Nosler AccuBond.

In the center of the yellow circle is a cow elk. She did a 180 turn, took a couple steps, turned 90 uphill and made three or four more. .300WM, 180g Barnes MRX, 400 yards.



This is the exit side.

PP look like they have been pancaked by recoil. Made for the 300 win, but I also use them for 300wby in the length challenged Vanguard.

Yup that looks like them!

That's how I've rolled when the 300 wm was my only rifle. Generally just used the 200gr. partition loaded to 2,900 fps an rocked on..

Thanks to guys like rockchuck, we can live thru other's experiences and suggestions. I always take the proven path and use partitions. However, when I'm being cheap, I'd also opt for the poor man's partitions. The Hornady interlock....

I'd bet that's a shoulder pusher.