Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Hunting Rifles Higgins Model 51 Refurb... Need some help.

Good evening,

Yesterday I dropped off my Grandpa's JC Higgins Model 51 in .06 off at a local gunsmith. As most of you know it was built with an FN Belgian action and with a HS chrome lined barrel. The rifle has seen a lot of use over the years. The rifle is in great condition all things considered, I was a little bit of an idiot using it as a teenager but it survived being stolen by a family member and pawned and returned luckily. On the list is..

-Restore the cracked walnut stock as close to new as possible. As far as a finish I might go a little darker than original. The stock will be stored and maybe used at times but I just received a hogue overmold stock that will take on duty as the primary stock.

-The rifles iron sights are being removed as they have never been used and more space for a larger scope will be available.

-Install new Timney blue trigger.

-The bolt is going to be gone through and inspected

-It is undecided at this time if the barrel will cut down to 20 inches from 22 but it for sure be turned in the lathe to freshen up the crown.

-A 3 position safety is being sourced to allow for better scope options as the factory safety does not fully engage due to scope.

-After a long discussion about finish I opted to go with a flat black duracoat. The bolt will remain in the white as it came from the factory.

I would like some help sourcing a 3 position safety. I have been strongly considering the PTG 3 position safety. http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com...fo&cPath=308_49&products_id=1030

I am totally open to recommendations about the safety so please chime in about anything and everything.

Please recommend better scope bases. I am currently running weaver #45 and #46 bases but I am looking at a new larger scope. I want the scope to sit as low place as possible.

Thank you all for your time.

No offense intended but you seem to be well on your way to taking Grandpa's JC Higgins Model 51 to Bubbaville..

I am no expert, but I did just research some of this for a J.C. Higgins M50.

Safety:

- A three-position safety would be nice, but not as much as people seem to demand it. A two-position safety is actually fine operationally as far as safety. It is easy enough to safely unload a controlled feed rifle (like a Mauser), even one having a blind magazine, because you never have to close the bolt as you run the rounds into and out of the chamber. When starting to unload, you are “vulnerable” for only a few seconds when you switch off the safety to open the bolt on the chambered round. If you are concerned you gun is going to fire then, you have a major problem you need to address. In fact, if the rifle is working as it should, you should be able to safely unload even a push feed, blind-magazine rifle, one where you have to close the bolt on each round. Even so, I admit I prefer controlled feed actions. In all cases, regardless of the gun involved, muzzle awareness will prevent an accidental discharge from becoming a tragedy.
- You may want the capability to disassemble the bolt without tools. You might be willing to live with one that requires the rim of a cartridge, possibly even a cartridge rim and a coin, but the fewer tools, the better.
- For a low mounted scope, you basically have three choice:

1. Buehler “low swing” style. These are two-position safeties. They are the least expensive.
a. Buehler – This is an old brand that I don’t think is made any longer.
b. Timney – This is enough of a copy of the Buehler, that it is called “Buehler style.” I think it is the best one as far as ease of installation.
c. Dayton Traister – This is a bit less expensive than the Timney, but not enough to matter. The reason to consider this one is I think it may allow the scope to be mounted lower than the Timney will allow.

2. Side swing style – These are two-position, but will operate with the same motion as a three-position when going from fully safe to fire. They are actually kits, so you can have one installed in your shroud, or buy one already done, shroud and all (My choice, since if the guy messes up the shroud, it is his problem. And unless you are doing it yourself, you are paying someone else to fit it. So, pay the guy who is already set up, who has done a bunch of them, and knows the tricks.) An interesting thing is that while I don’t like the looks of these as much as the M70 style three-position ones, I have seen picture of at least two different VERY expensive David Miller Mauser rifles that appear to use this type of safety. These were SUPER expensive custom rifles, so I expect there was a reason other than economy that caused Miller to use this style of safety. I suppose he could have been too proud to use a part from another maker of the three-position safeties, but I wouldn’t think so.
a. Wisner – I personally like the look of these more than the Glen Chapman, and some people say they are a better design that is also easier to install.
b. Glen Chapman
c. PME? – I think this is the same company as the Wisner?
I think you can find one installed in a shroud for $110 to $130.

3. Model 70 style three-position - One of this style may be required if you want to be able to disassemble the bolt without tools, and this can be a very good feature to have.
a. Dakota Arms – This one is from a company that builds good rifles. It is about $150 from Brownell’s.
b. Pacific Tool & Guage – Some knowledgable people think this is the same as the Dakota, meaning Dakota makes it for Pacific Tool & Guage or the other way around.
c. Gentry - It is about $190 from Brownell’s. Some say the Gentry can be loose on some bolts, but not usually on good quality guns. Presumably, it wouldn’t be loose on an FN.
d. New England Custom Guns (NECG) – Is this actually a Recknagle? I don't know. $220 from Midway.
e. Ed LaPour – Not sure how much, but I bet it is at least $250.
f. Stuart Satterlee - $250, according to his website.

The last two are well regarded builders of custom rifles, and Satterlee actually builds actions from scratch.

Hope this helps.
Gun Doc

Awesome thank you for the link. Looks like my bolt might be making a trip to lapour.

bubbaville? c'mon... I do not want to further damage the stock? The hogue is a very nice stock especially for hunts on the damp Oregon coast that can take a beating and for the 85 bucks I payed for it, it can't be beat. The technology of coating a rifle for longevity has progressed pass bluing, bluing is going to wear down again. I have always been a fan of short barreled rifles and that is going to be a decision that has not been finalized but it is going under the knife to clean up the crown whether it is to shorten it or not. Nothing that is happening will not be able returned to new but the rifle sights are not in the cards.

It was not an easy decision to change the rifle but I am making the relative improvements to keep it going for another 50-60 years.

I'm with George. The LaPour, Timney and re crown are class items. The rest of the "modern improvements" are bubba. Rubber peels. I'm not sure of Duracoat, but I am sure of blue. I have a pair of 52 year old Browning shotguns that have been hunted in light rain, drizzle, freezing drizzle and snow. ( I don't hunt in a real rain). They have had ice form on the barrels only to be thawed by shooting them. The blue is not as fresh as new, but it is not gone either. Cleaning and waxing the metal before as well as after the hunt helps a lot. Removing and sealing the wood inside and a good wax preserves the wood.

On the other hand, it is your gun to do with as you wish, but the old dead guys were not dumb either. 60-65 years for a blue job isn't bad.

OR2BAJA,

Cerakote is more durable on the metal than Duracoat. Something to consider.

Your updates and upgrades sound pretty reasonable to me. I don't agree with the Bubba comments. It sounds like you are doing your research and pretty much know what you want. A Higgins M-51 is an excellent candidate for this sort of project. It is not like you are messing up a museum piece. Just making a good working gun better.

I would think twice about shortening the barrel very much, other than cleaning up the crown, unless that Hogue stock is too butt-light for you. Balance lost is not easily regained.

Welcome to the Campfire. You sound like our kind of guy.

I rehabbed a Higgins a few years ago. The metal was rust peppered and the stock was cracked. The rifle had no sentimental value and I didn't care for the stock with or without a cracked in it so it was replaced.

I replaced the trigger with a Timney Sportsman. The mounts were replaced with Talley L/W's. Cerakote was used to refinish and was dropped in a McMillan stock. I didn't replace the safety as I'm a big fan of the FN safety. I thought about cutting a few inches off the barrel but decided against it.

All in all I'm very happy with the results. If I bubba'd it, well, so be it.





McMillan has recently come out with a new Sako compact stock and I have one with a M98 inlet on order. I'll be selling this one soon.

Terry

Lookin good.... Soon to be eating crow here, eating crow.

Thanks for all of the input and opinions. The hogue was a cheap and simple replacement as my wood stock was going to be refurbished before the rifle was going to be worked on but that mcmillan stock looks really really nice and I may have to look into one, is that a sporter stock?

TC1, does your safety hit the scope?

No, it's close but doesn't touch. A simple flick of the thumb kicks it to the fire position.

The stock is their MarkX pattern which is the same as their Sako Classic.

The only real difference between the M50 and M51 is the M51 came with a checkered stock and cost more. I agree the FN style safety can be a bit of a snug fit under a scope but it's never been enough of a bother to me. Frankly, you don't have to cut the barrel to do a crown.
I have a few of those J.C. Higgins in the M50 configuration, one having been redone as a custom 7x57. The rest are still in 30-06. If you're going with a different scope set up, what do do plan to do with the Weaver bases. The M50 and probably the M51 have an oddball screw hole spacing on the rear bridge and I could use a set of the Weavers.
Paul B.

Paul I will let you know. The weaver bases I put on the M51 back in 1998 was #45 #46 and they appear to still be available. I think I am going to go the route of TC1 and the bases he used.

The Weaver J C Higgins bases are currently available from Midway. fyi

Many of the 50-51s have three rear base holes.. the hole spacing is the difference, either .550 or .860 I believe. Those drilled with three holes will fit either.

g

Good point. My 50 has the three rear base screws. They provide that additional flexibility.

The rear ring on mine only has 2 holes with a .500" spacing.

I went with Warne Maxima bases and rings, the bases you need are M902/831. I also had Jim Kobe (Jkob here on the 'fire) install a 2 position Wisner safety, which for me, is a huge upgrade from the factory safety.

I have had two M50s- with only two tapped holes in the bridge and they had the wider .860 spacing. I think the factory barrel is fairly slim so I would be a bit concerned about balance if shortening much…and I like shorter barrels. Like someone else wrote, I like the factory FN safety on the left side of the bolt sleeve. The 51 has a higher comb as I recall. The factory wood on my current 50 has a low comb better suited to irons so I am re-stocking with a Hi Tech.

3 position safety is my preference ,second would be the 2 pos wing..sorry I don't really like the flip up and down style. They work fine but seem clumsy.
Dakota makes a nice one, I have installed them the most...my first choice.
Second would be Ed lapoure..high quality piece probbly best one made but just costs more...

TC1,

That's a slick looking rifle. I too have a 51, but have never really fiddled with it much. That McMillan stock and Talleys turn it into quite an attractive rig.

Whoops.

Just looked and mine is a model 50. There is something appealing about the old gun.

I think mine is a model 50 too. Yeah, I really like the stock but its going to be changed soon. I found out last month McMillan will inlet their new Sako Compact for a Mauser so I have one on order!

I agree .... I did very minor bubba damage to my Grampy's rifle and regret it. I wish I had left it alone.

I had J kobe put a safety on my mode 98. I like it. I also have a jc jigs 50 w original safey. I wonder if a guy could trade? That way my model 98 and Higgins would be the same safety?

I love the higgins', great shooters, but the triggers should be switched out. They will discharge if an action screw loosens, it's a bad design.

I'll second that motion. All my M50's now have Timney triggers. That's the first thing I change.
Paul B.

JC Higgins model 50 and 51 have been the supplier of quality actions to the ultra high end customs for years. Gunsmiths around here would typically rob the action and rebuild the M50/51 with a M98 military action. Model 51's are great because they had cheekpiece stocks along with the checkering. The versions with the trigger mounted in the guard do need changed out. Some if not all M51's had the very good SAKO #4 trigger in them.

My 1948 FN, which wears a Buehler (spelling?) bridge mount only has one hole in the bridge, so I assume it was d&t'd by whoever put it together. On at least one of the M50s I've had, I had to file the rear Weaver base for bolt clearance, possibly because I bought the wrong one; who knows?

I really like the looks of the original wing safeties and think they are great on an iron-sighted rifle, but are a little awkward with a scope, but still better than the Buehler on the right side.

If I were replacing an M50 trigger and had the bucks, I'd use the Alaska Arms M70 type, otherwise a Timney I guess.

All these old FNs are great buys and make most of the new stuff look like crapola by comparison.

A saw one of those out here recently. Model 50 stock and barrel, but a military 98 action. Being sold as a Model 50, as that is what the barrel says.

Bruce

I started reading the OP thinking it was new... 6 posts in and noticed 2015 lol.

I did that. Didn't read the date.



Bruce

I know this is a necro-post, but none of the Higgins 50 or 51's came from the factory with three holes on the rear bridge. They came with either .500" (.504") or .860" spacing from the factory. Many owners had a third hole added to their .860" spaced bridges because it was much easier to find bases such as the weaver #45 to fit the .500" spacing than it was to find a base with .860" spacing. Voere is the only maker I know of that routinely produced sporting Mausers with three holes in the rear bridge. Theirs were designed to allow use of a a one piece base designed to fit an FN Commercial or two piece bases.

Nope, the 51L came with the Sako trigger because it was based on the Husqvarna 1640 action, not the FN 98. All the Higgins 50 & 51's came with the oddball bottom metal mounted, two piece affair.

Not sure if the OP ever did all the changes he mentioned, but if he did, it sure ain't his Grandpa's rifle, anymore.

Good to know. I have several model 50s and 51s but they're just rat holed away. I've thought about fixing a few up to hunt with. I've wondered about sending the barrel actions of a few of them off to be nitride.

Bb

I would like to see some pics of your 51s. I used one as a kid, my dad's and would like to find oneagian in 30-06.

Excellent assessment of the op's plan. Leave the irons alone and don't whack the barrel...mb

Indeed. The Higgins Mausers have a sweet rear sight base and a decent front base. Swap in a nice folding leaf rear sight and a front of whatever height the rear dictates and you're good to go. They won't get in the way of any scope that has any business on these rifles.
Rex

One of the oddball things about the M50 is the early ones had the dovetail groove for the rear sight right over the chamber. The one I made into a 7x57 was originally chambered to the .270 Win. and that cut over the chamber made me a bit nervous. I have a copy of the owner's manual for the m50/51 and the picture of the rifle shows that earlier version of the rear right over the chamber.
Paul B.