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Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 50,627
Campfire Kahuna
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Campfire Kahuna
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 50,627 |
No problem to the metal at all. It conducts heat into the permafrost, hence those radiators to keep moving the heat out. The chances of landing in a permafrost lens is fairly high. When it melts it leaves a big hole...
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 555
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 555 |
Hey neighbor! I made my own concrete for the last cabin I built, brought the Portland cement in by sled in the spring. I screened the aggregates from the nearby gravel bar. I use 12" PVC piers 9'+ deep. No heaving at all. My buddies cabin on sonotube piers heave, so I use PVC.
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 17,491
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 17,491 |
Those radiators are often filled with ammonia as a passive radiator-coolant-type system.
Short of getting that elaborate, a gravel pad over rigid foam board is a frequently-used method. Then wood pads to support heavy beams on top of that are proven ways of dealing with foundations in perm-frost country.
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,168
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,168 |
Are you intending to post hole some test holes?
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice. --ironbender
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,856
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,856 |
Technometalpost.com
Neighbor down here is an installer. His posts are the foundation under the addition we're currently doing. The machine is about the same size as a small Bobcat. It has a short boom and drills helical posts into the ground until reaching a gauged pressure. He welds on a bracket and you build from there. Homer has very little permafrost. Petersville has lots. I would avoid metal posts for that reason. Good point....thoroughly enjoying Global Warming here. Those Chinese sure are nice people.
I retired from the Johns Manville asbestos pop tart factory in ‘59, and still never made the connection.—-Slumlord
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Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,416
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,416 |
Technometalpost.com
Neighbor down here is an installer. His posts are the foundation under the addition we're currently doing. The machine is about the same size as a small Bobcat. It has a short boom and drills helical posts into the ground until reaching a gauged pressure. He welds on a bracket and you build from there. Thanks for that link. I've been kicking around options for our place up in Caribou Hills...
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,884
Campfire Regular
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Campfire Regular
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,884 |
if you want this as something that will last for generations to come and to be handed down in the family over time (hopefully a long time) do it right once and enjoy. as mentioned wind and snow and the combination of the two along with the deep frost does present some challenges but they can be accommodated. when designing for wind, the devil is in the details if you will. the load paths and connections have to be done correct or while it may look impressive, it will be a waste of time and money. look through a Simpson catalog for ideas on proper wind design and how the connections required to make it all work including the hold down details from roof to foundation. another item i would suggest is when you place your roof trusses i would go with half of them as a "Room in attic" truss and the other half can be a scissors truss for a vaulted ceiling over the other half. the room in attic type truss will give you a loft area for either sleeping or storage with not much more addition work than erecting the trusses you would be putting up anyway. i did this for a buddy of mine for a cabin on his property and he was most pleased with the affordability of the design and results. i am sure there are tons of ready made plans out there that will give you what you are looking for. also since this is not going to be a huge cabin, just go with 2x6's as the wall framing for the extra insulation properties and strength for the snow loads on the roof. it really will make a difference in the performance. Not my cabin, but I love the idea of a vaulted ceiling and loft for a smaller home. You can do some much with that area. If there are school age grandkids involved, they love loft areas to get away from the "old folks".
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Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1
New Member
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New Member
Joined: Mar 2015
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heres my cabin i built 4 years ago. i can get the ATV,SNOWMOBILE AND LOG SPLITTER UNDER IT.
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 20,554
Campfire Ranger
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OP
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 20,554 |
Hey neighbor! I made my own concrete for the last cabin I built, brought the Portland cement in by sled in the spring. I screened the aggregates from the nearby gravel bar. I use 12" PVC piers 9'+ deep. No heaving at all. My buddies cabin on sonotube piers heave, so I use PVC. Whereabouts in Petersville is your cabin? Our land is in the Kenny Creek subdivision and is one of the closest lots to the road. Some good suggestions here and I appreciate all the helpful info. I know a few other folks that built cabins out that way and will be bending their ears this summer/next winter.
That's ok, I'll ass shoot a dink.
Steelhead
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,168
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,168 |
Not building this summer?
Be a good time to get a foundation in and allow a winter to shift/settle.
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice. --ironbender
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 17,491
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 17,491 |
Not building this summer?
Be a good time to get a foundation in and allow a winter to shift/settle. I can provide pictures and a few other thoughts relating to why….
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,419
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,419 |
Hey neighbor! I made my own concrete for the last cabin I built, brought the Portland cement in by sled in the spring. I screened the aggregates from the nearby gravel bar. I use 12" PVC piers 9'+ deep. No heaving at all. My buddies cabin on sonotube piers heave, so I use PVC. what you used for the form shouldn't make any difference in the chance of it heaving. it's the frost depth. i would suspect that your set of piers were deeper than the frost depth in your area opposed to your buddies piers may not have been deep enough. depending on the size of the structure you will be supporting and the distance between the supports required, another issue a person could run into is inadequate soil bearing for the particular load. a 12" dia pier doesn't have much of a foot print to distribute the loads into the ground. what would be nice is if a guy could bell out the bottom of his piers prior to pouring to give the pier more footprint to bear on. belling it out to 18" to 24" in dia for about 8"-12" in ht before transitioning back to the original bore dia would go a long way in both bearing capacity as well as increased up lift capacity for your wind loads (think of it as the pier being dovetailed into the soil some 10 ft below. my .02 anyway.
Last edited by JimHnSTL; 03/30/15.
Help keep our sport going. take a kid outdoors!
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Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 20,554
Campfire Ranger
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OP
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 20,554 |
Not building this summer?
Be a good time to get a foundation in and allow a winter to shift/settle. Correct, we are going to sit on the land for a year or so before we commence with the construction of a cabin. But I do plan on cutting some trees and such this summer when we select the actual spot where the cabin will go up. There are some pretty large trees on our lot with ample spacing where we won't have to cut too many of them down.
That's ok, I'll ass shoot a dink.
Steelhead
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 17,491
Campfire Ranger
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Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 17,491 |
Hey neighbor! I made my own concrete for the last cabin I built, brought the Portland cement in by sled in the spring. I screened the aggregates from the nearby gravel bar. I use 12" PVC piers 9'+ deep. No heaving at all. My buddies cabin on sonotube piers heave, so I use PVC. what you used for the form shouldn't make any difference in the chance of it heaving. it's the frost depth. i would suspect that your set of piers were deeper than the frost depth in your area opposed to your buddies piers may not have been deep enough. ……. Won't matter if there's permafrost. Permafrost is generally a lot deeper than any piers an ordinary individual will install. Anchoring piers in permafrost requires some method to deal with conduction of heat from on top. Even 30 foot columns properly designed for permafrost can be subject to heaving. Insulated pads are the simplest and most economical way to build on permafrost. You need to be able to adjust the building as it shifts.
Sometimes, the air you 'let in'matters less than the air you 'let out'.
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,419
Campfire Tracker
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Campfire Tracker
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,419 |
admittedly i have not gotten into any foundation design work in a permafrost region. Southern Canada has been my most northern experience in terms of actual projects worked on so i reserve the right to be totally out of the loop on design methods for those regions.
Help keep our sport going. take a kid outdoors!
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 40,179
Campfire 'Bwana
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Campfire 'Bwana
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 40,179 |
Son of a liberal: " What did you do in the War On Terror, Daddy?"
Liberal father: " I fought the Americans, along with all the other liberals."
MOLON LABE
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,168
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,168 |
Tree species, slope, facing direction, etc?
I'm sure you know that all affects liklihood of permafrost
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice. --ironbender
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Joined: Aug 2006
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Campfire Ranger
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OP
Campfire Ranger
Joined: Aug 2006
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The ridge where the property is located is east facing, towards the Talkeetna's and is not steep. I believe the previous owner said the ridge is a bit more than 400 feet above the water table and we could put in a septic if we wanted (I do not).
Not sure of the tree species, am thinking maybe cottonwood but not positive on that.
That's ok, I'll ass shoot a dink.
Steelhead
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,168
Campfire Oracle
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Campfire Oracle
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 86,168 |
OK, then. Pilings it is!
If you take the time it takes, it takes less time. --Pat Parelli
American by birth; Alaskan by choice. --ironbender
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