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Thanks, but my refinish jobs are very ameture. I'm more of a glass bedding specialist grin... I've seen some refinish jobs that were so nice, it was not even funny. One guy in particular is a member here and he does not advertise or take in any work. He is a wood worker by trade, so he has a few tricks up his sleeve. I'm not going to give out his name because I consider him a good friend. BobinNH knows who I speak of though...


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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LOL, BSA, I just inlet an aluminum buttplate onto a 1958 plastic buttplate stock myself! It has a cracked/repaired wrist and is now on my 1956 hunting rifle.

I have a tupperware original Winchester Featherweight solid bottom stock that I have modified to fit my pre 64's for those truly nasty, rainy, cold November Black Bear hunting days in PA. It kind of goes against my philosophy of life being too short to hunt with ugly guns. I often tell people that I like to see blue steel and good walnut while hunting; afterall, you spend a lot of time alone looking at your gun while hunting. But, the truth be told, I did ruin a 1946 transition model 70 stock while hunting bear. The finish just disappeared, the stock got so waterlogged. It leached water for months, actually years. I finally bit the bullet and restocked it, and then sold it to a friend. I gave the stock to a gunsmith friend. I don't know if he ever used it or not.

When refinishing a pre 64 Winchester I use the stock oil from Winrest or Winchester Restorations that was originally marketed by John Kay, whom I am not sure is still living or not. He sold the business to another fellow, Don Hardcastle, TexasBear10aim.com is on the bottle. I haven't bought any for years as it goes a long way. The instructions say to put the sandpaper away as the first step. Use a furniture stripper to remove the finish and only try and lift or sand out the very worst scratches, dings and gouges. He says a 50 (now 60) year old stock should have some dings. He also says the wood should stand proud over the metal on pre 64 Win 70's and that if it doesn't it looks like manure and that it was refinished by an amateur. The process is time consuming but well worth the effort.


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Here is the only Model 70, bolt gun or scoped gun I've ever had. I had wanted a 30-'06 or 270 to shoot and ended up with this. The wood had a glossy clear coat over top of what was left of the original finish. The clear coat was flaking and it was not very appealing to my eyes. Good news was it hadn't been cut for a pad or to fit a receiver sight. I don't think it was sanded before the clear coat and I didn't use sandpaper on the wood(I used stripper and an old toothbrush). I know I'm an amateur and it's not perfect but I like it. I wanted to make it look used and not new. Maybe the scope mounts aren't super pretty either, but I like the old K4 with the range finder reticule. It seems to work just fine.
[Linked Image]

I made an effort to keep the wear as it was and left the scratches and dents. I tried to wear off my refinish in the normal wear areas also. I have taken it out in the rain a few times. I like to layer on several coats of wax prior. If it hadn't had the extra finish I would have left it alone.
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


I also got into it fair because the bore is rough with some pitting from the throat to the crown, but the crown itself looks good and I thought I could make it work. I had erratic accuracy from the start with various factory ammo. It was really getting frustrating and I was thinking there might have been some good reasons this rifle had been for sale! I bounced some ideas back and forth with BSA1917 last summer and got a few pointers from him. I also read a lot of older books and remembered reading in a Jack O'Connor book about shimming the barrel off the stock a little. I ended up putting .030" total under the front of the action and .010" at the forearm tip. I saved this target from last year because I now had better results. There are about 16-17 shots in there as I worked my way up from the bottom of the target making scope adjustments and writing down notes about the various 165 and 180 grain hand loads I had been working on.
[Linked Image]

Eventually after reading over on the reloading forum I tried IMR 4831 and 180 grain Partitions and started getting five shot groups around 1-1 1/2" regularly. Yesterday I worked on some 150 grain bullet loads but first shot three of the factory rounds I had been using last year and then three hand loads. I know it doesn't do this every time but it was a good target to remind me of where I had been with it and seeing some improvement. I'm very happy if I can get five shot groups around 1" at 100 yards. The 150s with IMR 4064 best group was five at 1 3/8" so I think I have a start there too.
[Linked Image]

You guys seem to talk about Model 70s a lot over here. I had been reading about refinish so I'd thought I'd share. I try to be persistent with stuff and doing a lot of reading here and on the reloading forum helped. Thanks!

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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Gundoc, at some point, it's almost better to just slap a McMillan stock on a good rifle and hunt the hell out of it without worry of ruining a lot of collector value. I find the thing that has the tendency of getting ruined out in the field is the stock/wood and not the bluing or steel. This is the reason I have most of my pre 64's stocked in Mcmillans and brown precision stocks right now. I will probably keep my '56 30-06 fwt as original as possible, but really hate dragging it through the brush around here. I see your guys' point about refinishing a "messed with" stock. It does absolutely no harm to refinish a stock that has been glass bedded or one that has been cut for a pad. I always consider these stocks to be "hunters" and I much prefer using them out in the woods or even off the bench for that matter than the original fwt stock (aluminum or plastic plates). Hell, I sold my original 375 H&H stock to throw it into a "shooter" stock and now it's on to another stock now (Mcmillan coyote bomber swirly). Trust me, I'll always be able to sell the rifle for more than I have into it. The moral of the story is to buy them cheap and sell for a little profit or break even if you are selling to a good buddy/friend. Right EricM.... laugh wink

You got that right, BSA!! wink grin cool

Eric

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Originally Posted by BradD
Here is the only Model 70, bolt gun or scoped gun I've ever had. I had wanted a 30-'06 or 270 to shoot and ended up with this. The wood had a glossy clear coat over top of what was left of the original finish. The clear coat was flaking and it was not very appealing to my eyes. Good news was it hadn't been cut for a pad or to fit a receiver sight. I don't think it was sanded before the clear coat and I didn't use sandpaper on the wood(I used stripper and an old toothbrush). I know I'm an amateur and it's not perfect but I like it. I wanted to make it look used and not new. Maybe the scope mounts aren't super pretty either, but I like the old K4 with the range finder reticule. It seems to work just fine.
[Linked Image]

I made an effort to keep the wear as it was and left the scratches and dents. I tried to wear off my refinish in the normal wear areas also. I have taken it out in the rain a few times. I like to layer on several coats of wax prior. If it hadn't had the extra finish I would have left it alone.
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


I also got into it fair because the bore is rough with some pitting from the throat to the crown, but the crown itself looks good and I thought I could make it work. I had erratic accuracy from the start with various factory ammo. It was really getting frustrating and I was thinking there might have been some good reasons this rifle had been for sale! I bounced some ideas back and forth with BSA1917 last summer and got a few pointers from him. I also read a lot of older books and remembered reading in a Jack O'Connor book about shimming the barrel off the stock a little. I ended up putting .030" total under the front of the action and .010" at the forearm tip. I saved this target from last year because I now had better results. There are about 16-17 shots in there as I worked my way up from the bottom of the target making scope adjustments and writing down notes about the various 165 and 180 grain hand loads I had been working on.
[Linked Image]

Eventually after reading over on the reloading forum I tried IMR 4831 and 180 grain Partitions and started getting five shot groups around 1-1 1/2" regularly. Yesterday I worked on some 150 grain bullet loads but first shot three of the factory rounds I had been using last year and then three hand loads. I know it doesn't do this every time but it was a good target to remind me of where I had been with it and seeing some improvement. I'm very happy if I can get five shot groups around 1" at 100 yards. The 150s with IMR 4064 best group was five at 1 3/8" so I think I have a start there too.
[Linked Image]

You guys seem to talk about Model 70s a lot over here. I had been reading about refinish so I'd thought I'd share. I try to be persistent with stuff and doing a lot of reading here and on the reloading forum helped. Thanks!

That looks great. Very nice job! smile

Eric

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Originally Posted by EricM
Originally Posted by BradD
Here is the only Model 70, bolt gun or scoped gun I've ever had. I had wanted a 30-'06 or 270 to shoot and ended up with this. The wood had a glossy clear coat over top of what was left of the original finish. The clear coat was flaking and it was not very appealing to my eyes. Good news was it hadn't been cut for a pad or to fit a receiver sight. I don't think it was sanded before the clear coat and I didn't use sandpaper on the wood(I used stripper and an old toothbrush). I know I'm an amateur and it's not perfect but I like it. I wanted to make it look used and not new. Maybe the scope mounts aren't super pretty either, but I like the old K4 with the range finder reticule. It seems to work just fine.
[Linked Image]

I made an effort to keep the wear as it was and left the scratches and dents. I tried to wear off my refinish in the normal wear areas also. I have taken it out in the rain a few times. I like to layer on several coats of wax prior. If it hadn't had the extra finish I would have left it alone.
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


I also got into it fair because the bore is rough with some pitting from the throat to the crown, but the crown itself looks good and I thought I could make it work. I had erratic accuracy from the start with various factory ammo. It was really getting frustrating and I was thinking there might have been some good reasons this rifle had been for sale! I bounced some ideas back and forth with BSA1917 last summer and got a few pointers from him. I also read a lot of older books and remembered reading in a Jack O'Connor book about shimming the barrel off the stock a little. I ended up putting .030" total under the front of the action and .010" at the forearm tip. I saved this target from last year because I now had better results. There are about 16-17 shots in there as I worked my way up from the bottom of the target making scope adjustments and writing down notes about the various 165 and 180 grain hand loads I had been working on.
[Linked Image]

Eventually after reading over on the reloading forum I tried IMR 4831 and 180 grain Partitions and started getting five shot groups around 1-1 1/2" regularly. Yesterday I worked on some 150 grain bullet loads but first shot three of the factory rounds I had been using last year and then three hand loads. I know it doesn't do this every time but it was a good target to remind me of where I had been with it and seeing some improvement. I'm very happy if I can get five shot groups around 1" at 100 yards. The 150s with IMR 4064 best group was five at 1 3/8" so I think I have a start there too.
[Linked Image]

You guys seem to talk about Model 70s a lot over here. I had been reading about refinish so I'd thought I'd share. I try to be persistent with stuff and doing a lot of reading here and on the reloading forum helped. Thanks!

That looks great. Very nice job! smile

Eric


I agree, that rifle is a beauty!! It shoots great too for a rough bore. I love the old scope too. Did you buy that scope from bushmaster1313?? Looks great!!


Originally Posted by raybass
I try to stick with the basics, they do so well. Nothing fancy mind you, just plain jane will get it done with style.
Originally Posted by Pharmseller
You want to see an animal drop right now? Shoot him in the ear hole.

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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
Originally Posted by EricM
Originally Posted by BradD
Here is the only Model 70, bolt gun or scoped gun I've ever had. I had wanted a 30-'06 or 270 to shoot and ended up with this. The wood had a glossy clear coat over top of what was left of the original finish. The clear coat was flaking and it was not very appealing to my eyes. Good news was it hadn't been cut for a pad or to fit a receiver sight. I don't think it was sanded before the clear coat and I didn't use sandpaper on the wood(I used stripper and an old toothbrush). I know I'm an amateur and it's not perfect but I like it. I wanted to make it look used and not new. Maybe the scope mounts aren't super pretty either, but I like the old K4 with the range finder reticule. It seems to work just fine.
[Linked Image]

I made an effort to keep the wear as it was and left the scratches and dents. I tried to wear off my refinish in the normal wear areas also. I have taken it out in the rain a few times. I like to layer on several coats of wax prior. If it hadn't had the extra finish I would have left it alone.
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


I also got into it fair because the bore is rough with some pitting from the throat to the crown, but the crown itself looks good and I thought I could make it work. I had erratic accuracy from the start with various factory ammo. It was really getting frustrating and I was thinking there might have been some good reasons this rifle had been for sale! I bounced some ideas back and forth with BSA1917 last summer and got a few pointers from him. I also read a lot of older books and remembered reading in a Jack O'Connor book about shimming the barrel off the stock a little. I ended up putting .030" total under the front of the action and .010" at the forearm tip. I saved this target from last year because I now had better results. There are about 16-17 shots in there as I worked my way up from the bottom of the target making scope adjustments and writing down notes about the various 165 and 180 grain hand loads I had been working on.
[Linked Image]

Eventually after reading over on the reloading forum I tried IMR 4831 and 180 grain Partitions and started getting five shot groups around 1-1 1/2" regularly. Yesterday I worked on some 150 grain bullet loads but first shot three of the factory rounds I had been using last year and then three hand loads. I know it doesn't do this every time but it was a good target to remind me of where I had been with it and seeing some improvement. I'm very happy if I can get five shot groups around 1" at 100 yards. The 150s with IMR 4064 best group was five at 1 3/8" so I think I have a start there too.
[Linked Image]

You guys seem to talk about Model 70s a lot over here. I had been reading about refinish so I'd thought I'd share. I try to be persistent with stuff and doing a lot of reading here and on the reloading forum helped. Thanks!

That looks great. Very nice job! smile

Eric


I agree, that rifle is a beauty!! It shoots great too for a rough bore. I love the old scope too. Did you buy that scope from bushmaster1313?? Looks great!!



Nice rifle with practical mounts and rings in desperate need of a new scope. Even lowly sub $200 Nikon, Redfield or Weaver would be a huge improvement over what is there.

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When I got my first pe-64, I was talking to the only old Winchester fan in my area (that I know) about whether to scope it period correct or go with current technology. He made a statement that turned out to be very true. He said,"you've got your first one, if you don't go broke or die, it won't be your last". Well, since then two rifles that I just knew I'd keep forever have gone down the road and been replaced with a '53 and a '59 fwt. Of the 3, two of them have current Leupolds and the duplicate .308 has a Scopechief. After hunting them both ways, If I only was going to have one pre-64, it would be with the best new glass I could afford but keeping it somewhat compact and in tune with the lines of the rifle. In other words, no Nightforce, no Hubbles.
Great looking rifle Brad, Enjoy.
John

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We pee and moan about scopes, When you grow up on irons, any scope that holds zero and stays there is great! Ive always almost felt like cheating when I use a good scope, I love high dollar German glass BUT Im American and have had great luck with Leupolds, If I get a bad one I send it back and they make it good!Im kinda stuck on the 4.5 x 14 x 40 AO with varmint reticules the last few years on my hunting ,whitetail guns.... I do not have a lot of mule kick guns like you Western guys, so I try and listen to you folks, Ive not scoped my 338 win mag yet but was thinking about a 6X german scope on that one just to zero and get used to the gun... very best WinPoor

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Thanks for the compliments on the rifle guys.
The scope was on the rifle when I got it. I shoot tang sight lever action rifles otherwise. I know right next to nothing about scopes and since this is what was on there I use it. I would be happy to hear some suggestions for a better post-war vintage scope I should look out for. Thanks!

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In older scopes I would focus on Euro stuff from: Carl Zeiss Jena, Kaps, B. Nickel, Hensoldt, Zeiss, Kahles, Swarovski,...... I looked over 80s vintage West German 3-9x36 Zeiss Diavari. It was still very impressive scope far better than any Leupold of same vintage. Just make sure you don't end up with railed version as those require expensive specialized mounting system. This type of system is naturally far better than American companies currently offer.

You're lucky to have that Weaver mounting system. It is among the best available in USA and nothing more expensive that is made there is any better. I laugh when people spend over hundred bucks on domestically made mounts and rings. Remember the best mounting system is Holland & Holland qd system followed by Suhler qd system. The only US made option that is worthwhile was that offered by Griffin & Howe which cost about $800 several years ago.

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Originally Posted by BradD
Thanks for the compliments on the rifle guys.
The scope was on the rifle when I got it. I shoot tang sight lever action rifles otherwise. I know right next to nothing about scopes and since this is what was on there I use it. I would be happy to hear some suggestions for a better post-war vintage scope I should look out for. Thanks!


Why?

There still is something to be said to shoot an old rifle as it was made to shoot. I do the same with a 1950 30-06 and still use the Stith Bearcub that was on it...

[Linked Image]



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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter
[Linked Image][/URL]


Looks like a can of Gun Sav'r Custom Oil. Is that what you are using?

I have used it on about half a dozen rifles. Did a buddies pre 64 300 h&h not long ago.

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Guess vintage scopes are OK to look at if one doesn't plan on hunting in the rain or snow. Had two vintage Weaver's fog-up here in PA during deer season many years ago, two days in the field ruined, never again....


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Brad you have a nice rifle there but the scope isn't helping your groups. I like the vintage scopes to go along with the rifles as well, up to a point. I bought a M70 22 Hornet with a Weaver K10 on it. I couldn't see those thin cross hairs while shooting prairie dogs. I managed to find a Kollmogren 6X with a target dot reticle and changed it out. My 7MM carbine wears an older Redfield wide field 2-7 and I'd like to find one for the 300 Savage but for now it will wear a new Nikon 3X9 robbed from another rifle.

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Originally Posted by shrapnel
Originally Posted by BradD
Thanks for the compliments on the rifle guys.
The scope was on the rifle when I got it. I shoot tang sight lever action rifles otherwise. I know right next to nothing about scopes and since this is what was on there I use it. I would be happy to hear some suggestions for a better post-war vintage scope I should look out for. Thanks!


Why?

There still is something to be said to shoot an old rifle as it was made to shoot. I do the same with a 1950 30-06 and still use the Stith Bearcub that was on it...

[Linked Image]




That's a great picture. Hope you are displaying at Cody again this year!


Thanks for the suggestions on the scopes guys. As I mentioned I generally shoot older rifles with tang sights so, like winchesterpoor says, a working scope is a big change from that. I like the old stuff and try to keep it in use. Some things of quality seem to get harder and harder to find; maybe it's that way with old scopes? Asking for suggestions on a period scope of quality does not mean I will change what's on the rifle now. If I would happen across something vintage at a gun show I would better know what to look for...and I don't think it hurts to have a nice extra old scope around for it in the event I would want to change it or need to.

I appreciate learning about the Model 70 over here the last few years. Thanks!

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The Lyman All-Americans are excellent scopes still, if you can find one that hasn't been abused. I like the 4x and 6x Permacenters.
Bob

6X in Talleys on a Rem 223
[Linked Image]

4x on a .30-06 Rem. One of the last ones to come out of the Lyman plant in CT.
[Linked Image]

Minty 4X on a '55 M70 in .30-06. Mounts are older Redfield steel rings on a Jr base. Very retro, but still usable.
[Linked Image]

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Has anyone here ever used "Winchester Restorations pre 64 red-brown stock oil" or "French Red stock filler" ? If so how did it work out?

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Originally Posted by RGK

Minty 4X on a '55 M70 in .30-06. Mounts are older Redfield steel rings on a Jr base. Very retro, but still usable.
[Linked Image]

What a beauty!!

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Originally Posted by southwind
Has anyone here ever used "Winchester Restorations pre 64 red-brown stock oil" or "French Red stock filler" ? If so how did it work out?


I have used the Winchester Restorations oil and it works great if you follow the directions. John Kay the original maker always recommended a paper towel wipe off after each coat; the current maker does not. I wipe off. I don't know if I have any pics of any or not.


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