Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Winchester Collectors First Pre-64 M70 On the Way

I agree I need mediums in Dual Dovetails on pre 64 Win 70's with standard Leupold scopes; lows will work with the compacts.

Good questions.

I'm watching intently, since I'm embarrassed to say that this is the first I've heard of the DD concept.

I've been out of the loop for quite a few years.....not so much gun stuff going on and focusing on mostly Rugers that bring their own scope mounts.

I simply ordered a Leupold STD base and I have a couple sets of medium height rings lying around, so I thought I had it whipped.

Now I'm wondering if there are advantages to the DD base that I should be looking at or if maybe I could just as well go with what I have?

The 6x36 will clear low DD's....so will a M8 3x or 4X. I admit it can be a challenge with some scopes but those work fine.

Variables have that stuff on the back end that makes them fatter....

The DD's are stronger,no rear windage screw. I avoid them if I can.

Curiously watching this thread as well. I have Talley Lightweight lows on my Alaskan and Featherweight, both wearing Leupold. Bolt clearance is there BUT not if I put on any type scopecap on the eyepiece. Then it drags.

My problem has been with any Leu. with an occular that is the size that a standard Alumina flip cap will fit. The eyepiece caps only come in two sizes- standard and compact. And no, the flip cap isn't the problem as they aren't even installed. Hasn't mattered if it was variable or not because it's the body of the occular that the bolt drags on, not the power ring.
John

Strange, sounds like my pre 64's are different than yours..

The old leupld 3-9x40 ocular is small compared to the burris FFII, I've been know to use...

These are low DD's:


These are low DD's:


Of course we have the notorious rub mark, but that's no big thing:


I DO run mediums on my cheaper Zeiss Terra's because they have a big ocular and 42mm objective..:


Same same on my classic sporter. Anytime your ocular reaches the size of the Zeiss or you have an objective larger than 40mm, it's wise to use the mediums:

I like steel Talleys in low height. Seems to be enough clearance for both front and rear. My next scope (Leupold 6x42mm) will be on a Cooper in low Talleys.
Bob

Sounds to be like everyone agrees any Leupold ocular that is not a compact will drag the bolt handle on the ocular with Leupold lows rings. The difference is some people are OK with that and some are not. I do know that matte anodizing is hard and just abrasive enough that it will start to mark a bolt in only one or two passes. I don't think having it touch is a good idea if you run the bolt smartly, but since I don' let it happen I don't know for sure. I have used a Leupold 3x9 Compact in Super Low rings, which gives a very low mounting and nothing touches. However, if you use a one piece base you may have to mill or file then touch-up blue the base for clearance of the raised part at the turret. You may not have to do this, but you might. It is so close that they vary individually as to clearing or not.

Gundoc pretty much summed it all up right there. When I'm trying a scope and mount combo, I temporarily mount the bases and bottom half of the rings and lay the scope in them in the position that gives me correct eye relief. I then pull the bolt all the way back slowly in it's highest position to see if it lifts the scope from the rear ring. If it does, it's a no go.
Currently, I'm using a Leu. 3-9X40 in steel Talley lows on one fwt. .308, and same scope in Dual DT with Med. rings on the fwt. 30-06. My favorite set-up however, is a Leu. 3-9X33 compact in Dual DT lows with the rearward extended front base on the other .308 fwt. Even though I usually prefer the larger occular, this set-up is near perfect.
John

Working on those promised pics now.

If I refinish this stock myself it will take a long time.

I think I'd like to buy a synthetic stock of some kind to get and keep the gun up and running.

Good source for such a stock for my rifle?

Finally, PICS!!!

As you can see, nice rifle with no dings, scrapes or damage, just a lot of finish that has come off.

Not too sure what to do with the finish problem, but I like the rifle a LOT.

That's a nice rifle for what you want to do with it. I would completely refinish the stock, a patch job just isn't feasible. Find a front sight hood and your good. If your going to refinish the stock I'd consider replacing the pad with one of the aftermarket Winchester style pads. You can get one from Galazan and I think Pachmeyer has an Old English style pad that will work.

DWG, Very Nice. Check your Private Messages.
John

I'd also refinish the stock since it's had the recoil pad installed. Glass bed it while you are working on it too. Looks like a great rifle. You'll be more than happy with that one. Like someone else said, you can go with a Winchester reproduction recoil pad sold by Galazan or the red pachmayr decelerator pad looks great. Don't know about an old English pad GSP talks of, but the decelerator would by my first choice. Here are a few that have the decelerator:

Thanks much to all for all the info, pics and encouragement. I've come to the conclusion that the stock will have to be a winter project for me (along with a few others that will build up over the summer).

The wood seems thirsty, so I'll rub a little Lin-Speed into it to seal it up for now and get back to it in January. Summer is a time that I get out and buy stuff.

Last night I bought some of the special Winchester Red formula oil off e-Bay and I'd appreciate info (or links) as to strippers and other refinishing details from those who have them.

Thanks again!!!

Zip Strip, Strypeez, Homer Formby's, I have used them all and all work great. Scrape the bubbled up finish off before it redries. Do it a couple of times if necessary. Scrub the gook out of the checkering with a toothbrush and mineral spirits. The stripper will most likely eat the toothbrush bristles so do that last after scraping the stock.

It will look horrible when stripped, whitish, streaky, etc. Wash it down good with mineral spirits, let it sit a day or two, and then get busy wet sanding that WinRest finish in with 1" patches of 320 wet/dry black sandpaper.

Brown or McMillan. Warning is that once that synthetic is on there, you may never use the wood again. I doctored one like that with a Brown precision in the late 80's, and it's still trucking 3 barrels later.

Three barrels later. That's a lot of beer.



I may just be enabling an addictive need for more Model 70s as there is notion flickering around in the back of my mind that after the current one is all refinished and stock and action reunited..... one could acquire yet another with a beat up stock and then have the synthetic to put on it while the other is being prettied up.

In fact......I could start looking for another one now!