Home Forums Hunting & Shooting AR and Tactical Rifles Installing ALG EMR V2

Help me out. I've ordered this rail in 13":

http://algdefense.com/ergonomic-modular-rail-v2-m-lok.html

I've never really been a tinkerer but I was under the impression that this install will be "easy". Well I've watched a you tube or two now to get an idea and I've realized I was a bit naive in my plan.

Its going on a 16.1" carbine gas standard gov't profile BCM upper. I have a DD Omega 7 on it now so FSB, delta ring and the triangle end caps and all. My original plan was to grind down the FSB to fit. My naivete comes in by thinking that I was going to be able to install without removing the gas block and tube or barrel. It's now clear to me that I'm not going to be able to get away with not taking off the FSB, it looks like the barrel can stay on though.

So, here comes where I need guidance and experience. I was going to grind the FSB and use some bbq paint because I like the idea of keeping the toughness of the factory installed gas block and it saved me some money...and it was less room for error on my inexperienced end. Is it possible to do this install using the FSB? Can it be removed and re-installed while remaining rugged and reliable? Or am I really looking at getting a low-pro gas block? Max durability/ruggedness is my top priority.

What is my best plan of action? And unfortunately every dollar counts, I've been waiting to scrape together the money to put an extended rail on it to accommodate my new adopted hand forward grip. Please break it down with crayons and stick figures if you can, I've carried and shot these weapons for a long time but never tinkered with them.

While the barrel can stay "on", you are going to remove everything holding the barrel in the upper receiver. The ALG barrel nut replaces the factory or standard nut to mount the new rail on.

You are basically going to have to strip the barrel of everything on it to get the old barrel nut off, and to get the new ALG barrel nut to the threads on the upper receiver.

Yes, you should be able to grind the FSB down enough to still be safe, and clear the ALG tube, but the FSB has to come off for the install. You won't be able to get the new ALG barrel nut over the remains of the FSB, IMLE.

And, most likely, the flasher hider/muzzle comp has to come off as well, you will most likely need a new crush washer to install it back "right". Generally a good box end wrench will fit the flats, or a combo armorers wrench will have a notch for the flats. You can use a Cresent wrench in a pinch, but they will usually slip, round edges, and leave marks. Depends on the size of the flats.

Tools: you need a way to hold the upper receiver, and a barrel nut wrench for a standard AR nut. The ALG comes with it's own wrench head, you need a 1/2 inch drive to use it. You should actually use a 1/2 drive torque wrench, but many don't.

You need good quality steel punch to get the FSB pins out, I'm assuming they are taper pins and peened over, but ask. Some of the newer AR companies are using straight pins, no tamper. An armorers block for the FSB area helps, but you can use wood blocks for support with the same results.

The gas tube "should" come out while you are grinding, but doesn't have to. However, you'll read about more than one "Oops" for grinding the edges and a slip that wrecked the gas tube. The gas tube roll pin needs a smaller lighter duty punch than the FSB pins.

Tools:
Vise
Upper receiver vise block, or action rod.
Standard barrel nut tool, or armorer wrench.
1/2 inch drive torque or socket wrench- if using the barrel nut tool head only.
Two pin punches - one stout for the FSB pins.
- one small for the gas tube roll pin.
Wrench for the muzzle device - may be part of the armorers wrench.
Anti-seize lube - for the new barrel nut.
Hammer - smaller is better IMHO, better control, less "ooops" factor.

I'm late to respond but thank you for your help. I definitely am in over my head on this job. So, I recruited help of a guy I know to do things like this right. We have served together in the past. I'm looking forward to getting it all done. I'll post a few pics and my impressions of the new gear when it's done.

Well, I got the new rail installed finally. I spent an evening in a shop with an Army friend and it was good times had by all.

This is the old look of the carbine, BCM upper/lower with DD Omega 7 quad rail (which is now for sale):


Once everything was removed we spent some time with a Dremmel, a reciprocating saw, and finally a bench grinder. After getting some phosphoric acid to blue it here's the new Low-pro gas block:




And after installing the ALG barrel nut and reinstalling the gas system:



And finally the rifle with a new 13" ALG EMR V2:
[img]http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums...d-4de0-aab5-4de271742fdc_zpspfgm3mpz.jpg[/img]

Since the install the next set of parts showed up from Brownells with the front Magpul MBUS to match the rear and a 7 slot Magpul polymer rail section. The rail is for a LaRue Tactical handstop to be installed at 6 o'clock towards the end of the rail.

Impressions:

The install was fairly easily done as long as you know a little bit about AR's parts and have the tools/shop to make it easier. I had carried and shot these weapons for quite a few years but never tinkered really, so I was out of my league going into the job. My friend made it seem simple and I think with the right tools at my disposal I could do it again myself.

The forend is a nice product with good fit and finish. The flat/matte black looks good and isn't too slick or too rough for gripping on. I love the slim, smooth rail. I don't have very large hands and I feel like I can really grab most of the forend. With my hand-stop installed out at the end my recoil control was improved quickly. The rail is light. I didn't look up the DD rail weight to compare but the weapon feels qualitatively equal to lighter.

The rail section attached really easily using the M-LOK system. Flexibility on where to attach the rail sections is really good as well. Someday the rifle will be completed with a weapon light and the ALG rail has M-LOK slots at 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 o'clock I can use for that purpose once I figure out my shoooting technique in that regard. I opted for the polymer version of the picatinny section because it saved a few dollars and I figured, "What the heck, Magpul hasn't done me wrong with plastic yet."

The anti-rotate QD sockets at 10 and 2 in the rear of the forend are in the perfect spots for my VTAC 2 point sling as well.

At any rate, the rifle was definitely improved with this install. Bascially, the rail has every feature required for my needs at a very reasonable price. I'm a pleased ALG customer again (this weapon also has had an ALG ACT installed).

I very recently got an Aimpoint PRO and it sits on the weapon now full-time. The Burris scope will return to the weapon when occasion allows for coyote calling or prairie dog sniping. Since I'm a one AR man for the time being I think my carbine is as well set-up as possible (barring the need for a white light $$$). Its primary role is PD/HD/SHTF and training for possible deployments. Its secondary roles are hunting various appropriate quarries. Can't wait for the days I can afford to start building rifles up for each niche of shooting I want to do--until then this is my jack of all trades...and I'm a happy AR shooter.

68W, looks good.

What was the technique to finish with the phosphoric acid?

It went on with a swab. My buddy had the bottle in his shop. It was labeled as gun blueing. Just applied liberally to the ground surfaces and it looked great. My friend thought that was a better solution than BBQ paint.

Looks good, I am planning to use one of those rails on my next project. Just have a few too many projects currently to get to it quickly.