Home Forums Hunting & Shooting Single Shots Ruger No. 1 forend modifications

I just got a 1A in .222. The round count is still just under thirty, so I know the jury is still out as to whether the following observation will hold true, but it appears to have a slight forend pressure issue. The rifle strings vertically with the bags under the middle/front of the forend, but I moved the bags back to the receiver/rear of the forend and got sub 3/8" groups.

I know the barrel isn't fully broken in yet, and I've tried only 1 powder/bullet with a couple different charge weights.

My question is, if this holds true, what forend mod should I start with?

I have a K1a in 257 rob that's a lights-out shooter, and the previous owner had a glass pad installed under the barrel. I've heard about the hanger tweaks, I just wanted to get a feel of where you guys might start.

Thanks!
Jonathan

Jonathan
Just my two cents here, but I studied input from those with experience and knowledge of such matters. I currently have a #1 and #3 that have responded well to the three mods listed below.

From the factory they may/may not shoot some great groups, and the poi may move from session to session depending on environment, etc.
So, to improve groups and keep them going same place over time....

-Relieve the for-end wood from touching the action.
-Remove pressure point wood at front end and replace with enough bedding to center the barrel snug in the channel.
-Add a hard shim snuggly fitted between the hanger and barrel.

These mods are currently working great for me.
Tim

Any No. 1 that shoots less than 3/8" without any modifications would be left alone if it belonged to me!

I have found that most No. 1s shoot more consistently when rested near the back of the forearm, or even on the front of the receiver.
The light barreled 1A is the most likely configuration to experience problems with stringing, POI changes, etc.
A Hick's Accurizer or any fix that imitates one will usually show improvements in the above problems. You might also try a very quick, simple and cheap alternative that seems to work for a lot of people: a 1" square of truck tire innertube placed bewteen the barrel and fore-end near the tip.

Well, I don't think I'm ready to say it "shoots" 3/8 inch, just that it has shot 3/8". I'll be happy with comfortably sub-MOA, consistently, and from what I've seen I don't think that will be a problem at all. I have a lot more shooting to do to see how it plays out. I haven't even cleaned the bore yet, besides swiping the packing gunk out before firing.

Once I settle on a load, I'll shoot from field positions and off the sticks to see how point-of-impact holds up.

So far I'm not ready for obtrusive mods just yet, but the inner tube idea might be something to try before getting out the sandpaper.

Tim, what kind of material do you use for shims?

Also, does anyone have any experience loading for the 1A in .222? Any pet combos?

So far I've just tried h322 with the 55 Sierra gameking btsp (perfect turkey bullet).

I've had good luck with 4198 and Reloder 7

I use a stiff piece of plastic of a thickness the will be snug between the barrel and hanger. Stiff so that it will not compress much over time and change its effect.
That gap may vary from gun to gun a little.

In my opinion, relieving the wood from touching the action and replacing some wood at the front with bedding are important for consistency from session to session. If the wood changes ever so slightly due to environment, the poi/group is bound to shift unless you make these other two adjustments.
But, each gun is a little different so......
Good luck.
Tim

I have read and read and heard from the late great gunsmith Randy Ketchum, how to mod a Ruget #1 forend.

I wanted to rebarrel all (4) of my Ruger #1 rifles.

But all of them shot so well with no for end mods, I am not pulling the barrels.

Get the Copper out of the bore, and 4 of 4 shot the lights out.

Must be I am the only person who has some p.o.i. shift with time, temperature and moisture changes with #1s (and bolt guns) that are as is from the factory.

All you guys just dial in the scope and she is good forever?????
Good for you. Wood changes for me. Might be laminates don't change or plastic either, but I don't have either.

I like small groups, and to know where they will be next shoot with the same load. All my stocks are wood and tweaked. I keep my targets and record all loadings and groups in 3 large 3 ring binders.
But to each his own and each gun IS different.
I guess I will not need to beat this dead horse anymore.
JMHO
Tim

Yikes...I don't think anyone tried to rile you up but you may want to chill just a little.

You're not the only one who has had POI shift issues...if you were, there wouldn't be huge amounts of mod suggestions on multiple websites or gunsmiths who try to address the Number 1 issues.

I too have had issues with two previous rifles but I ended up sending them downt the road...I picked up a Lipsey's 1A 6.5 Swede and can honestly say it is the most accurate No 1 I have owned to date that did not require any modifications. I recently purchased a 1V .220 Swift and am hopeful it lives up to the same expectations...but I am prepared to work on this one if it doesn't.

"You're not the only one who has had POI shift issues."

Actually I do not have those issues because I do the things (myself) similar to what I noted above to prevent it.
Little groups are a goal for everyone. I personally do everything I can to have them always shoot to the same poi because the next time I shoot, may be in a hunting situation.

Didn't mean to come off wrong.
Small groups are nice. Having them go to the poi you are expecting is the other shoe.

Always thought the Swede would be cool to own, but have not done so. I did recently have an older Mod 70 in 257 Bob follow me home. All it has needed so far is a hard shim under the action behind the lug and seal the wood on the inside.

Not only is each gun different, so is each shooter.
Tim

I'm not surprised. Pull the wood off any of your Ruger rifles and inspect the insides closely. There is no coating of any kind on inside wood on any of my #1 and M77 Rugers. None, non, nein, nyet and nada. The only thing on the inside is raw wood with a bit of stain. That goes for my 20 #1's and 3 M77's. Yeah, I like the #1 Rugers and I like hunting with them.
Paul B.

So do you seal them? If so, with what?

I would see how it shoots with a pad between the fore end and bags.I have noticed that rifles seem to be more sensitive to verticle fliers with fore end pressure.I keep a mitt in my range box for shooting the No.1.In fact when sighting in to go hunting ALL my rifles get the same treatment(mitt)whether free floated or not.Mimicks field conditions more precisely.jmo

Jonathan
Got any update for us???
Interested in how things worked out.
Tim

I've loaded up some more rounds, but haven't had a chance to shoot it any more yet. I'll be sure to keep you guys posted.

Jonathan

Well, I've come to the conclusion that it wasn't the rifle, but my hand loads causing the issues. I was initially using a new powder measure, and I don't know why I didn't check that first; I suppose I was drawn into the assumption that No. 1's have forend problems, though this is 5/5 No. 1's for me that shoot well.

It's an honest 1/2" shooter, at least with 3 shot groups. With the thin barrel that's all I'm patient enough to shoot.

I got multiple groups like the one below (3/8") out of a box of Remington 50g psp factory ammo. The largest was 9/16".

So you got those groups with factory ammo and with zero mods to the gun????
Whatever the solution, glad you ended up with a shooter.
Tim

Those are from factory ammo, no forend mods. I did try a copper shim between the hanger and barrel and a pad over top of the forward contact point, but it shot worse.

Great!
Have you had good luck with the #1s holding poi from session to session or with environment changes without having any mods done??? I was not that fortunate.
Tim