Curious if anyone puts Oil on a triggers sear surfaces to protect the surfaces from Corrosion in a humid enviroment? On the one hand I can see oil attracting dust which wouldn,t be a good thing and on the other Hand I can see an unprotected surface attracting rust !
Although this question might apply to any sear surface I am talking specifically about this for a Tikka T3 kept and hunted with in a humid enviroment.
I lube triggers with Dri-Slide only and have had no corrosion issues in the sear surfaces on a number of brands of triggers. That in conditions far worse than most will ever see for salt air and spray, rain, sleet, snow, graupel, and hail.
Many use lighter fluid to clean the triggers and it leaves a very thin, non-dust collecting layer which is plenty of lube and may help with corrosion, too.
Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
I have used Lighter fluid on a few triggers. Does help with smoothness but I dont know if it helps with corrosion either. I know a few Gunsmiths recommend oil on the sear and just wanted to see what others thought of the Practice. Thanks Craig
The benchrest guys like lighter fluid for their triggers, but remember that their triggers have a very light pull ( 3 oz. or less). Sear contact pressures are very light due to the multiple lever designs and engagemensts are only a few thou. in many cases. Lubricants are less important than dirt free conditions. Flushing the trigger housing with lighter fluid cleans out any dirt and dries completely leaving nothing behind.
Hunting rifle triggers can function lube free, but benefit from something like Breakfree-CLP, etc. for a consistent pull and some rust protection.
It's a toss up between maintenance and repair. Some guys run amsoil for the life of an engine, some change the oil every 2k. I would suggest that you keep it clean and in the event that you are in a dusty environment or hunting from a boat that you take the time to clean it up and dry it out. Doing so it should last forever.
Originally Posted by BrentD
I would not buy something that runs on any kind of primer given the possibility of primer shortages and even regulations. In fact, why not buy a flintlock? Really. Rocks aren't going away anytime soon.
I take a different approach. For hunting rifles I use a thin coat of high pressure service, moly loaded synthetic grease like Brownell's Action Lube II. A THIN layer, you can't tell there's any there except you'll see a little black (from the moly) if you wipe it with a tissue. You need only enough to fill in the microscopic roughness so steel isn't contacting steel directly. The synthetic doesn't attract dust and doesn't change viscosity in reasonably cold temperatures. (Arctic blasts, I'd rather ice fish.) A big benefit even on something like a Timney is the pull is more consistent when lubricated.
Not such an issue with modern tool steel triggers and some designs, there can be a lot of force generated in PSI at the sear engagement for a simple trigger. Divide the mainspring force the sear is holding by the TINY engagement area. A high pressure lube saves wear and possibly galling with less than the best steel.
Of more benefit particularly on older bolt action rifles is a little dab of the stuff on the cocking piece. The force on the helical cut on the bolt body can be enough to cause galling, depending on the particular steel and heat treating. Stainless steel is famous for wanting to gall in any high pressure sliding application.
The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh
As per nighthawk, I use molyslide on both the bolt and sear on most every gun I own. I learned this from Zeideker's (SP?) books on the AR. Those are well worth the price for any shooter/tinkerer AR or not. -Muddy
I have read that molly can cause rust in rifle barrel by trapping moisture under the coating but I guess that would be a different situation than using moly grease on a trigger sear ?
Well, with the grease you have a barrier to any moisture getting to the sear. With bullets the moly powder with no grease or anything else is bonded to a clean bullet by a ride in a vibrating "tumbler" with steel shot. Sorta hammered to fit the bullet metal so precisely it sticks on its own.
I've never had rust in a barrel used with moly though the climate here isn't conducive to rust anyway.
The key elements in human thinking are not numbers but labels of fuzzy sets. -- L. Zadeh
I have not for quite a few years used anything but EEzox or Corrosion X on my rifles. These are dry to touch, comprehensive products -clean, and protective.
After a season's use I fully disassemble the rifle, clean all parts with products mentioned, reassemble, and forget about until next use. A year, 2, or more....
Some discretion on "use' enabled.....
Trigger mechs may go 5 or 6 years... even if used, unless in harsh weather. Dry to touch stuff doesn't gum or attract dirt, but still lubes and protects.
Be it noted I generally take my rifle to be used out before the hunt and test fire to confimn POA. Kill or not kill, clean, put away.. I ain't much into blowing a lot of holes into paper on a proven gun betixt times...
I have not for quite a few years used anything but EEzox or Corrosion X on my rifles. These are dry to touch, comprehensive products -clean, and protective.
The Corrosion-X I use is an oil (really good stuff). What is yours? Must be something different if it's dry.
I take a different approach. For hunting rifles I use a thin coat of high pressure service, moly loaded synthetic grease like Brownell's Action Lube II. A THIN layer, you can't tell there's any there except you'll see a little black (from the moly) if you wipe it with a tissue. You need only enough to fill in the microscopic roughness so steel isn't contacting steel directly. The synthetic doesn't attract dust and doesn't change viscosity in reasonably cold temperatures. (Arctic blasts, I'd rather ice fish.) A big benefit even on something like a Timney is the pull is more consistent when lubricated.
Not such an issue with modern tool steel triggers and some designs, there can be a lot of force generated in PSI at the sear engagement for a simple trigger. Divide the mainspring force the sear is holding by the TINY engagement area. A high pressure lube saves wear and possibly galling with less than the best steel.
Of more benefit particularly on older bolt action rifles is a little dab of the stuff on the cocking piece. The force on the helical cut on the bolt body can be enough to cause galling, depending on the particular steel and heat treating. Stainless steel is famous for wanting to gall in any high pressure sliding application.
+1
The pressure on both spots is high and a light coat of grease makes things much smoother and last longer. I also grease the back of the locking lugs.
I can't imagine not lubing any mechanism, nor imagine not checking things over "before flight" as well. There are so many excellent lubes, solvents, cleaning potions....the only metal I can see running dry is wheel on rail. Maybe that's just me....I have had to dismantle too many unlubricated and seized/rusted/corroded items over the years, usually expensive stuff, to ever skimp on lube. Did I ever mention the 1913-produced 1911 family heirloom that spent three days in the solvent tank (after I got the grips off) just so I could strip it down for a cleaning? You know, the 1911 that went to France and back in the Artillery?
Up hills slow, Down hills fast Tonnage first and Safety last.
I have not for quite a few years used anything but EEzox or Corrosion X on my rifles. These are dry to touch, comprehensive products -clean, and protective.
The Corrosion-X I use is an oil (really good stuff). What is yours? Must be something different if it's dry.
It isn't dry on application, but it does dry after application if applied correctly, and continues to protect and lubricate in that state. As does Eezox.
Stuff that doesn't do so tends to gum/ attract and hold crud. Also not good in cold temps. Dry graphite is an alternative, tho I prefer Eezox or Corrosion X..
