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Hello!

I found this forum by searching for info on my first 99 and I would appreciate some advice. I can't properly focus on the factory sights anymore (like several others) and wanted to try a classic receiver mounted setup that would be appropriate for my particular rifle. I am aware that stuff like this is hard to find and will hopefully enjoy the challenge. What brand/model should I be looking for?

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WELCOME

LYMAN 29 1/2 Or 30 1/2 Or Redfield 70 or 80
All Pretty Much Fall Into that Period.

YOU CAN FIND THEM ON Gunbroker or E-Bay
Under SAVAGE SIGHTS

Last edited by 1899sav; 05/18/15.

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Welcome to the campfire!

A Redfield 70LH or 70LT, or a Lyman 56S or 57S would be the most "period correct" receiver sights that I can think of off the top of my head.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Ah, just bend a piece of a beer can, punch a peep hole in it, and duct tape it to the wrist of the gun. Or take Calhoun's advice. Your pick.


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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Ah, just bend a piece of a beer can, punch a peep hole in it, and duct tape it to the wrist of the gun.



I'm Sure It Has Been Tried and Worked! grin


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Lyman 56S is correct. The correct Lyman 57 is the 57SA. There is no 57S according to my reference.

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Thanks for the correction, Jaaack.


The Savage 99 Pocket Reference”.
All models and variations of 1895’s, 1899’s and 99’s covered.
Also dates, checkering, engraving.. Find at www.savagelevers.com
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Originally Posted by gnoahhh
Ah, just bend a piece of a beer can, punch a peep hole in it, and duct tape it to the wrist of the gun. Or take Calhoun's advice. Your pick.


The important part is to find the correct beer can. Over the Memorial day weekend I plan to empty several beer cans looking for the right one.


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Yuengling is the correct can for that job.


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I believe that would be a Yuengling Black and Tan can, Joe.


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I wonder if a Yuengling bottle could be used to cobble together a home made scope?


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Dear TeTech:

I have two tang sights, one a Lyman 1A and the other a Lyman 29 1/2. Presently I am using the 29 1/2 on my 1953 Savage 99R.

The correct receiver sight (not tang sight) would be a Lyman 56S or 57SA as mentioned elsewhere or a Redfield 70.

I prefer the tang sights, since they are closer to the eye, and easier to use with a low recoil rifle.

There were a rash of Lyman 1A's for sale on E-bay last week. They run from $125-150. The 29 1/2 or 30 1/2 Lyman sights run about $175-225. The Lyman 56S is usually more expensive, and I rarely see a Lyman 57SA for sale.

You might try Gunbroker, too, or of course the classified section of this forum.

Good luck.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

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I certainly do appreciate all the insight on my project. I guess I'll start reloading 300 Savage this weekend and attempt the fuzzy sight picture until I get something lined up.

I do have another issue I need to deal with and hope that someone has insight on this last bit of work. The rifle has the slim forearm with Schnable and the barrel stud appears to have been added post production. It looks like a modern cast piece and is undersized allowing play. I really don't want to peen the doveltail and would rather file down an oversized barrel stud, but can't find a replacement from Numrich and the other usual suspects. Are there any Savage specialist parts shops that I might be missing in my search?

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The barrel stud seems to have become extinct.

What makes you think yours is some post production add on? it is dovetailed in at the factory. If yours is functional just tighten up the dovetail and move on.

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Originally Posted by Lightfoot
What makes you think yours is some post production add on? it is dovetailed in at the factory. If yours is functional just tighten up the dovetail and move on.


I am a metal worker by trade and performed QC in the firearms industry at one point. The barrel stud on this rifle appears to be a MIM (metal inject mold) piece and was never properly fitted to the existing dovetail. My personal experience with my own firearms of this period is that parts like this are cast if not forged and also hand fitted. I am not 100% certain of this, but when you are familiar with overall manufacturing technique of a certain period it "sticks out" in compression to the other parts. I guess it's my own quirk because I want things to be correct and not half-a**ed.

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Can you show us a picture of it?

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I'm going to the range on Tuesday and when I get back I'll take a picture after cleaning.


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