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Here's a shot of the extractor ring, which I think shows sort of even wear around the perimeter. One little burr is sticking up - any reason I can't just carefully hit that with a die file, etc. and clean it up a bit?
[Linked Image]

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Not a problem at all to file that burr off. The extractor collar(ring) has to be proper ID and OD or it will bind and/or hang up on the ejector and or bolt stop.


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"New" extractor came in the mail and looks better I think, than the old one. Width is .399 (old one .400 in the middle) but overall much more consistent than what I had. The width of the "head" on the old one dropped to .010 under. The lip that runs in the bolt groove is thicker, less worn and seems a much better fit (.058 vers. .040) on the new. And note the modifications to the old face. Now to see if it works.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

Last edited by Gusb; 04/18/15.
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Couple of dumb questions regarding my Leupold which I'm getting ready to put back on the 06.

Can anyone date this scope (3X9 Vari-X IIc) and place a rough value on it?

What kind of lens caps would it have had and can I still get something similar these days?

If I sell/trade at some point, should I keep the scope with it or sell it (ebay, etc.) separately? Seems to me the gun (being a shooter, not really collectable) is a nicer package and more desirable with the Leupold?

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If you go to the Leupold website and poke around a bit, maybe in the FAQ's, you can find a table that will tell you when the scope was made, based on the serial #. However, if it happens to be Pre 1974, that is all you will know.

My LGS would likely ask $200-$225 for that scope.


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If you decide to ever sell the gun I would separate the scope from the rifle and sell separately. I just bought a new Vari XII 3X9 in a matt finish for a little over $300 so IMHO that scope is in the $150 range.

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I have dropped many a Whitetail with that combo, now that my eyes are going south Im partial to the AC scopes!easy 175 dollar scope unless its beat to heck! very best WinPoor

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Thanks for the feedback guys. After GSPfan's comment I've decided to put the scope up on eBay.

Edit:
GunDoc7 - did manage to find the chart at the Leupold link below - Thanks.
"7. When was my scope manufactured?
Every Leupold scope produced since 1974 will have a letter included in the serial number acting as a date-code. Scopes using a letter as a prefix (the beginning of the serial number) were produced between 1974 and 1992. Scopes using a letter as a suffix (the end of the serial number) have been produced after 1992."
http://www.leupold.com/resources/faqs/

Looks like my scope is 1984 (Prefix R = 1984)

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Starting to scrape pennies together for a .375. Any opinions on what I should ask for this 06 shooter if I decide to sell it. Just sold the scope on ebay.

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Originally Posted by Gusb
"New" extractor came in the mail and looks better I think, than the old one. Width is .399 (old one .400 in the middle) but overall much more consistent than what I had. The width of the "head" on the old one dropped to .010 under. The lip that runs in the bolt groove is thicker, less worn and seems a much better fit (.058 vers. .040) on the new. And note the modifications to the old face. Now to see if it works.

[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]


Gus, the new extractor looks a lot better. Does it work better??? Gus, are you looking to buy the 375 in the classifieds?


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Originally Posted by bsa1917hunter

Gus, the new extractor looks a lot better. Does it work better??? Gus, are you looking to buy the 375 in the classifieds?


Hey BSA - thank for the heads up - just went and looked at it. I'm assuming 3K plus down the road but I don't want the Monte Carlo, etc.

The extractor seems better, holds on to a case better and even flaky snap caps work better.

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Originally Posted by Gusb
Starting to scrape pennies together for a .375. Any opinions on what I should ask for this 06 shooter if I decide to sell it. Just sold the scope on ebay.

No expert here but I call it a 900 to 1000 gun. Looks good very best WinPoor

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Originally Posted by winchesterpoor

No expert here but I call it a 900 to 1000 gun. Looks good very best WinPoor


Thanks much for the opinion WinPoor. I too was thinking around $900, even with the super expensive extractor smile.

Took my S&W 629 in to a local shop yesterday and put it on consignment and while there asked their opinion on the 06. The shop guy said around $800, maybe... but then he said "you can get a brand new one (Winchester) for $900" so I'm not sure he really got/gets it.

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Some folks do not understand the pre 64 thing till late in life, very best winpoor

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Mr Gusb not at all, My gunsmith and the nice pretty lady that does woodwork and ceracoating are up to eyeballs in alligators, I have 2 projects guns down there now.
I have 3 more project guns, 3 are uncut std. 30-06, one is a padded .270 std that I had bedded in a McMillian stock. As good as you are with wood I wish you would redo all 3 stocks! I may send the bottom metal and 2 metal butt plates off for rust reblue, the rest of the metal is fine, 90% at least. Locals around here took the rest off my hands, the first to go the professionally refinished gun and it took a deer first trip out! Life is to short to hunt with an ugly gun! I really think around deer season here your gun would bring a 1000. very best winpoor

Last edited by winchesterpoor; 05/29/15.
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Time for another really dumb/uninformed question from me. The trigger on this M70 has what seems like a decent trigger pull weight (I'm thinking of buying a cheap trigger pull gage) but when the gun is cocked there is no free movement whatsoever. I'm not sure if that hard, no play, locked in place until enough pressure releases feel is normal? If I push the safety on then there is a little movement - like the pressure has been removed from the sear, etc. Doesn't seem to release/fire if the gun is jarred, etc. So how should that cocked, "ready to fire" trigger feel - should there be a little creep/movement before release?

Last edited by Gusb; 04/13/20.
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Originally Posted by Gusb
If I push the safety on then there is a little movement - like the pressure has been removed from the sear, etc.


You guessed it. Applying the safety cams the cocking piece/firing pin back away from the sear which takes the pressure off the trigger. It's a single stage trigger so it doesn't have the take up (1st stage) like most military or some sporting rifles.


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Originally Posted by Gusb
Time for another really dumb/uninformed question from me. The trigger on this M70 has what seems like a decent trigger pull weight (I'm thinking of buying a cheap trigger pull gage) but when the gun is cocked there is no free movement whatsoever. I'm not sure if that hard, no play, locked in place until enough pressure releases feel is normal?
Yes, normal..
Quote
If I push the safety on then there is a little movement - like the pressure has been removed from the sear, etc. Doesn't seem to release/fire if the gun is jarred, etc.
Correct - the safety, engaged, backs off the firing pin from the sear.. It's a wonderful system..
Quote
So how should that cocked, "ready to fire" trigger feel - should there be a little creep/movement before release?
There is usually some 'felt creep' before release.. Many people are OK with that - others are not..

Last edited by Redneck; 04/13/20.

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Don't mean to hijack this thread but does anyone know where my gunsmith can buy a Pre 64 Model 70 safety?


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