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I just picked up a Browning Bolt Rifle (BBR). I may want to remove the Browing high gloss finish. Is there a way to do this myself at home? What would be the best way to get this done and end up with a oiled type finish? Also, the barrel is high gloss as well, what can I have this coated with to give it a matte type finish?

Lastly, what are you thoughts on the quality of the BBR (pre-A-Bolt)?

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Taking the finish all the way to bare wood and starting over would be a lot of work and risky. I might be tempted to get 1200 grit wet/dry paper and see if careful sanding (without cutting all the way through) might produce a more satin finish. Experimenting in the barrel channel first might not be a bad idea.

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You need to get a hold of some volcanic pumice or rottenstone and use it sparingly it will do the job . Enter the complete URL for the link you wish to add.

Last edited by Oldelkhunter; 02/06/07.
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Rottenstone will get you there... Use a piece of felt dipped in mineral oil and rub with long strokes along the grain, rather than doing small circular areas and trying to blend them together... It will take some effort.
art


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I would be too impatient for Rottenstone- I would jump straight to 600 grit with mineral spirits backed by a sponge. If it is too rough, you could work back down with finer grits.


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I just done this very thing to 3 Remington BDL's and it was pretty easy. This process was explained to me on another forum.
I used 4"0" steel wool to remove the shine trying to stay in one direction over the entire stock or forearm. Be careful around the checkering, and don't rub any more than to just remove the shine evenly. Blow off with air if available and then polish with a car wax, I used Turtle was because it was what I had. If you get any of the wax in the checkering, clean it out with a toothbrush and soap and water. That's all I did and the stocks look beautiful. Good luck

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Last edited by panhandlepr; 02/08/07.

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I have used a good paste wax (Min-wax, Butchers, etc.) with super-fine steel wool to cut gloss. Get some wax into the steel wool and lightly rub the stock, then buff. If not satisfied repeat. The wax acts as a lubricant and should minimize the removal of finish. I have had good luck with this method. As suggested above you might want to try in a spot that is not visible or try on a piece of scrap wood that you have applied a high gloss finish to. It will not be as "matte" as a true, oil finish.


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To do the job right and get the eggshell luster of a really great finish the rottenstone is the only way to go. It goes far faster than most would seem to believe, however, it will take some effort...

Shortcuts with sandpaper and steelwool will never look as even. The scratches creating the matte will be coarser and more obvious. The wax is used to try to hide the bigger scratches. I doubt it would add an hour to a careful job to use just rottenstone and oil... Long strokes is the key.
art


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If you really want to take it to the wood, call Brownells. They have some powerful stripper that will take it off. Use turpentine or paint thinner to clean the stock after each application, because it will not raise the grain like water.

Then your set for a new finish or stain of your choosing.

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No reason to remove perfectly good finish just because the surface is too shiney... just fix the surface...
art


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I'm wondering if liquid deglosser, available at any paint store, would work.Might want to try it on a small area.


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[quote=Slidellkid] Also, the barrel is high gloss as well, what can I have this coated with to give it a matte type finish?
quote]
www.fit4duty offers a black satin CeraCote.

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Originally Posted by Sitka deer
To do the job right and get the eggshell luster of a really great finish the rottenstone is the only way to go. art

Art,
When you say eggshell finish do you mean all of the shiny will be gone with no more reflection than an eggshell?

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think it would be easier/cheaper to sell the bbr and get a abolt hunter....
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You ask an impossible question. An eggshell luster is quite flat, but will still show the grain perfectly with no visible scratches. The question about reflection is impossible to answer as you have to set some sort of standard before deciding whether the surface quality meets it. Trying not to make this sound evasive, but the standards do not exist.

In strong sunlight the eggshell luster will flash, no doubt, but almost anything will. Anything beyond eggshell matteing will start to kill the wood grain features.
art


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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I think you answered it well. I remember seeing a spot on a shiny stock that had been worked over with steel wool. The scratchiness of the surface kept the grain and color of wood from coming through.
My favorite for appearance is the rubbed oil which is in the wood as opposed to on it. But this is not sealed and more vulnerable to humidity. I suppose everything is a trade off of choices.

But I have had my eye on an out of production Golden Eagle 7000 rifle that has the bright shiny finish, but it has beautiful strawberry blond walnut. I may just buy it and do the rottenstone/felt/veg oil treatment.

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Mineral oil, NOT vegatable oil.

Oil is a long way from being magic but makes a nice top coat... trying to do too much with it is a mistake. Clear finishes that fill the pores without muddying them can almost always be buffed to whatever level of sheen desired. Oil just happens to be soft enough to do it easily.
art


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.
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now about beeswax? laugh

get those pices i sent art??

woofer


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Sure wish you would have let me know which group you were sending... I got a bunch of walnut pictures and a big group of others I honestly could not decipher. Assume you sent the walnut photos?

It is tough getting this old! Ran withthe boys tonight at Grayling's basketball practice and feel older than I did this morning.
art


Mark Begich, Joaquin Jackson, and Heller resistance... Three huge reasons to worry about the NRA.

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