So years ago I had a homemade file cradle, buddy made it, that held two files at what resulted in about 25 degree blade angles on Zwickey heads. Over the years and about 5 home moves later, can no longer find it.

What are you guys using to maintain a proper blade angle on new heads you are sharpening? I am looking at running either Zwickeys again or Dan threw out a Werewolf head that looks real good actually. Also seems like I ran Magnus heads back in the day as well.

Anyway, looking for ways to consistently sharpen new heads to the proper blade angles. May just work it with a hand file which is pretty much what Werewolf recommended.

Sounds like you had a homemade X-Block sharpener.
http://www.sportsandrectec.com/xblock/default.asp

I've hunted with the designer-owner and the X-Block is a quality system.
That said, I still sharpen my two-blades by hand with file and diamond stone.

I just sold my Tru Angle S24 combo on EBay a couple weeks ago. I bought it in '88 and used it for probably 12 years for my Zwickey and Magnus heads. It did a great job once you took off enough meat and got the angles correct. The diamond hone and leather strop were used if you didn't want that "toothy" edge but more of a fine razor edge.

Lots of miles on it when I tripped it but PLENTY left in it.....



After I switched to the Wensel Woodsman, it was out of service! For them, I used a coarse, medium and fine diamond stones and got them wicked sharp.

I shoot cut on contact 3 bladed heads (Wensel Woodsman, Razorcaps, G5 Montec) so a flat diamond stone is where I start, and them move to ceramic sticks for cleanup. They'll shave when I'm done.

I used a Lansky for years on Bear Razor heads. The stone did shave off a bit of the ferrule. They were shaving sharp. I still use the Lansky but have gone to four blade Muzzy heads. I sharpen all of them before using, and often again after a pass through shot.

i use a hand-held 6 or 8" file, then finish with a butchers steel. many ways to sharpen coc broadheads, i prefer the simple route.

use the same . Mine 20 years old. have to replace the files soon.

I shoot two different broadheads depending on how I feel that day and which set of limbs I'm rolling over on the Shaefer.

I use the Werewolf 150's on my 60# limbs, and Magnus stinger 4 blades on my 52# limbs. I sharpen the main blade on both with a Lansky and don't go any finer than the medium grit. With the Magnus heads, I just replace the bleeder blades with new ones. I see no reason to hone blades any finer than that on a broadhead. Its an edge you're only going to use once... Now a knife is a different story.

I don't sharpen in the field either. On extended hunts, I keep 2 spare broadheads ready to rock and roll with the edges taped up in a film can.

Might get flamed for it, but Ive had really good luck with the accusharp on magnus and zwickey heads. Stupid simple and you can shave with them.

Some good ideas. I have a couple of older broadheads and will try just a file to see how it goes for practice. But really thinking one of the cradles is where I will end up again. Thanks guys.

I used files for a long time. Last year I switched to a KME sharpener. They make one specifically for two blade broadheads and also one primarily for knife sharpening that can be used on two blade BH's as well. I went with the latter one.

Customer service is first rate. If you are having a problem using it - just call them. The guy will literally spend the time on the phone talking you through the steps.

It is really a great product. Three River's Archery sell them, I think also.

I have used most of those mentioned. The S24 system the longest. My Zwickey's and other two blades get wicked sharp on that system once the angle is set. Just remember to clean and oil the files regularly.

I too switched to Woodsmans a few years ago, so now just use a file and diamond hones to finish. I have been playing with the 220 Muzzy Phantom's lately so will use the S24 on them as needed.

The KME system is top notch for the two blades as well, just a little on the expensive side.

I started with a fine Arkansas stone and Bear Razorheads. Worked great. Then I struggled for years experimenting with all the different "better systems".

I went full circle and am back with flat diamond stones, ceramic sticks, and a leather strop.

I use mostly Bear Razorheads and Eclipse two blade heads out of my traditional bows. I can get them shaving sharp and once I get the initial angle set, it does not much to resharpen. I have tried Snuffers, Woodsmen, & G5 three blade heads, but cannot get over the air noise when shot. I want my setups to be whisper quiet. As I feel that the noise from the bow and subsequent arrow flight are huge factors in animals "jumping the string".

I carry a fold up coarse diamond file, small fine flat diamond, and a short ceramic crock on hunts to touch them up during if needed.

I prefer the shaving sharp edge over the rough file sharpened edges but have used both successfully to kill deer/elk.

KME for me as well.

I use the tru-angle file system and then finish them off with an Accusharp. I use the old Bear greenies exclusively. Gave up on Magnus heads a few years ago, too many curled tips.

I don't like Zwickeys for the simple fact that the steel is just too damn hard. They're a pain to sharpen or even touch up.

I have Magnus broad heads and sharpen them with a fine diamond and Arkansas stone to finish them. Never had an issue on deer.

The tru angle setup does a great job.

I have a little Smith rig that works well enough for me. I can shave with them when I'm done so that ought to work for punching through game.

I use Tru angle stones for my 4 blades, the diamond hone and the leather strop with jewler's rouge get my Zwickys and Magnus heads wicked sharp.
My Wensel Woodsmans and other three blades I use a "Jewelstik" and a G5 diamond hone. I think you can get all these through 3 Rivers Archery.
The tru angle hones can't be beat for 2/4 blade heads in my opinion.

Actually found a KME on the classifieds and going to give that a run. Down to 6 months before season already.

the KME works good for setting the blade angle or stoning away nicks, after that it's hard to beat a strop of leather and some fine compound.

The X Block works great on snuffers and ww's!!!!

I have only used a KME a couple times on my Wensel Woodsmans when I was at my dad's place. He has one and uses it to sharpen everything. It got those WW deadly sharp very quickly from the factory ground edge. About half the time it took me with a tru angle as I do not have the coarse stones.

I still like the TruAngle better for 2/4blades. For 3 blades like the WW and Snufffer the KME cant be beat IMO, I still finish with a leather strop and jewlers rouge tho.

It only takes three letters to answer this one. KME....but that's just me. I shoot bear stainless steel and STOS, both two blade.

some may say its expenive---but you'll only buy it once when you buy a KME---ron is a true gentleman and backs his system 100%--and when you call KME-you will get ron !!

Just ran a brand new Zwickey Eskimo over the KME system and as a rank amateur it did not take me long to get it very sharp. I'll get faster and better with it but at this point I must say I am pleased with it.

If i was starting over I'd buy a KME, but my lansky kit is still working fine. I actually find the accusharp the most valuable piece in my sharpening kit. I like it so much i actually just got another in case my first walks away.

take em
please elaborate how you use the tru-angle and KME on your 3-blades--maybe some pics
-----------------------------mike