How do you practice with your broad heads, i.e., get them out of your target?

thanks in advance.

There are targets made for field tips and broadheads. They pull right out if using the right target.

Use a dense foam target, layered thin foam sheets strapped together or a one-piece molded, and use the fixed blade heads you plan on shooting. Some companies (G5) have dull practice heads that mimick the cutting head in flight.

Rage expandables and some others make a practice head that does not expand/open...some will say that the cutting heads do the same...that fly closed like the cutting heads will.

The target won't "hold" the practice heads, they pull pretty easy. Foam isn't the tech term for the new targets, but you get the idea. Once in a while, I'll shoot too close to a target strap and have to unscrew the broadhead on the back side of the target bale, but that's pretty rare for my range.

Even the straight backed edges of the Slick Trick heads pull pretty easy for me, the cutting channel is open enough to pull the head back out. Slick Trick doesn't make a practice head, I shoot the sharp blades and replace them when I head to the field.

Hope this helps, if you are looking for a target, search the links here, there was a decent discussion of the different targets a few weeks back.

I've got a feeling that this poor new guy shot his broadhead tipped arrows into a regular target. And now it's stuck.

Push it through my friend. Only way I know of to get it out.

Well, I can neither confirm nor deny the above...

My "friend" *cough cough* shot a fishing arrow into a hay bale. Almost impossible to get it out, but I he managed to take it out.

Ah so...

Well, we've all done it one time or another, intentional or not. It's a little hard to advise you based on limited details, but here's a tool I've used (needed) for years based on where my arrow have landed.

Get one of these for your range box/hunting pack: Saunders broadhead and field point-puller. They are about $5 and pay for themselves the first time you use it. If you are stuck in wood, use a 2x4 and a hammer claw under the t-handle, I've found most heads will pull OK, and if you are deep in a target bale, you'll probably have to push through if you can. Be careful pushing a carbon arrow, they can and will break, the effect is about like a fiberglass rod coming apart, pulling carbon fiber splinters out of your hand will be no fun at all.

Or just underscrew the arrow from the broadhead, save the $10 arrow, get another broadhead, and write it off to the cost of the sport. We've all been there...good luck!

The other day I had an arrow "get away from me" <GRIN>. I was shooting at my bag target, which I have suspended from a A frame that I made. I have some scrap tin for a roof. Anyway, I tripped the trigger on my release when I shouldn't have, and hit a 5/4 piece of treated deck board that is used as a brace for the bottom.

To my surprise, that arrow when through the 5/4" board by at least 2.5". I am shooting Easton Axis arrows, and have Easton target points on em. I had to tap out the arrow out like a nail. I was even more shocked when I did not damage the arrow!

Bow is a Matthews EZ7 @ 70 lbs. It is a SWEEET bow!

Buying a good target will make arrow removal so much easier. The Rinehart targets aren't cheap but they last forever and the arrow removal is simple. Best of luck in your new adventure.

A good target like like Rinehart or Yo Buddy truly helps.

Don't forget to add a little Scorpion Target Arrow Release Fluid, it's worth it IMO to add this, doesn't seem to change arrow flight on my FBBH.

I've found the block is a good target for broad head practice but after a hundred or 2 arrows it's cut up pretty bad and more or less toast ha

Another thing I use for those "wayward arrows" are a couple of those milking stall mats from Tractor Supply. They are made from recycled rubber and do a great job of slowing down the odd flyer.
I have 2 zip tied to the chain link fence behind my bales.