I recently bought a bow and all the fixins. I had the shop fit it for me and install a peep. I took it out in the yard to start sighting it in and it shoots low. I've dropped the sight ring as low as it can go, and when I set my 10 yard pin it is in the middle of the ring. In face I have to use the pin second from the top as the others would be stacked too tightly underneath if I didn't.

Is there an aspect of my alignment (loop, whisker biscuit, peep, etc.) that could be causing this?

when you had the peep tied in did they have you draw the bow and look thru it?

If not they should have. When you have the bow drawn and you have the peep on the string you should naturally be able to see your sight ring without having to adjust your position. When you can draw the bow and your peep and sight ring naturally line up you are now ready to add the pins into the equation.

By the way that is not a dumb question.

Yes, he had me draw several times to get it lined up. The ring was at a higher point when we did this, but not by much. It doesn't feel like I have to adjust my position now, but I will double check when I get home tonight.

I'm not sure if they set you up with a loop or crimp on nock, but your nock point may have slipped. Or you rest may have moved. Paper tuning can be a huge help in making sure your nocking point and rest settings are correct.

As far as your peep, when you draw back the bow with your eyes closed then open them, is the peep setting where you can see through it without readjusting your hold or moving your head around? I'm basically just asking what MontanaCreekHunter already did.

You don't need a 10 yard pin. Make that pin your 20 yard pin and all is well. Tom

What he said...

It would help if we know what the "bow and all the fixin" were.

Some of the new speed bows and the sight/rest combos won't work as advertised, a problem I had the G-5 Prime line-up.

I'd check the D-loop location, mine slipped a tiny bit this Fall, first one in years to do so, and it made a huge shift in the POI.

The bow is a Hoyt Spider 30 with Black Gold Surge sight and a trophy ridge power shot whisker biscuit.

Once I take a look at the peep alignment again I'll try paper tuning. Since it is a new bow maybe the loop moved a little as I began to draw and shoot.



That sounds great, but my remaining 3 pins are stacked on top of each other underneath the pin set for 10. I have no room left to adjust them for 20, 30 or 40 and ballistics tell me I'll need a larger space between pins the farther out they are set for.

Depending on the "if your d-loop shifted", you may have the a same problem I ran into with the G-5 Shift and the Black Gold sight line.

I anchor at the corner of my mouth, the Black Gold sight would not adjust down far enough to set a 50 yard pin, and the 40 was stacked on top of it as as you describe.

I ended up switching to the G-5 XR line, with the step-down riser mount that drops the sight housing down low above the arrow.

How much measured distance do you have between the top of a nocked arrow shaft, and the bottom of your sight housing?

From what I've read, the Spider is pretty fast, and your pin distance won't be as extreme of a pin spread at distance as you might think.

Any idea what your arrows weigh loaded?

Was the bow paper tuned at the shop before you left?

Raising the peep and lowering your anchor will raise the sight in the window. With short bows like the Spider 30 your peep will only be an inch or two below the top serving on the string.

1 3/8", though I did notice lastnight that my biscuit may be low as the arrow appears to slope down, from the knock.


Nope, that's next on my list. I'll give it a go at home to see if something obvious pops out, otherwise I'll head back to the shop.



Are you saying I should try and anchor on my chin or elsewhere instead of the corner of my mouth?

Where you should anchor is a lot of personal preference. Corner of your mouth came from finger shooters. That isn't a bad option. But I would recommend giving this one a try. Run your hand along the bottom of your jawbone until you feel a little notch in the jawbone. On most people this is under the outboard corner of your eye. I anchor my index finger knuckle under and my middle finger knuckle on or slightly above the jawbone. If your using an index finger trigger release you would need to find a position that works there for you.

Does the arrow slope down when drawn or just when it is sitting in the rest undrawn?

Pretty difficult to help much on the internet. You should find a good shooter in your area that is willing to help you out. Most archers are very friendly and willing to help. Just beware of all the 'extra helpers'. Find one guy that is shooting well, learn the basics then you can adjust as you see fit. Don't change too much at once and concentrate on shooting with good form.

Can you adjust the sight pin holder up or down?

What do you mean? The sight ring itself, individual pins or something else? The ring is dropped as low as it can go, and I'm out of flexibility on the pins.

I'm going to try and paper sight tonight if I can...I'm guessing I just need to head to the shop and get a full analysis. I may just go for a lesson too to make sure what I think I'm doing is what I should be doing.

JR- I would adjust your rest up a lil bit so the arrow is level when at full draw or slightly nock low. I dont worry about a perfect bullet hole while paper tuning. For me its just to get me in the ballpark. I like to walkback tune.
First, tune the bow
Second, tune the arrows

Get the bow setup properly. Get the poundage, drawlength, ata and bh to spec, cam/idler lean, cam position/timing correct, nocking point correct first. Once these are set, they shouldn't need moved. Now that the bow is set up correct, you don't have to worry about that part anymore and can concentrate on tuning the arrow.

During the bow setup, a rest will need to be installed to establish a nocking point. Next, adjust the left/right and up/down by eye or the use of a laser and/or level. I like the arrow to be level or with a slight nock low. Remember that you will need to choose an arrow that is properly spined. Shoot it through paper at point blank range and adjust the rest to get as good of a hole as possible. Next, move back about 3 feet and shoot, step back another 3 feet and shot again. Do this to around 8-12 yards and don't make anymore adjustments yet until you complete the sequence. Shoot in a specific order through the paper so you can track the shot and relate it to the yardage. I shoot from left to right and shoot about 4+ shots in one row and make another row with 4+ more shots. Once you have a series completed, look at every hole and look at the overall flight of your arrow and make the adjustments according to this. Then repeat the process until you are getting bullet holes or close.

Make sure you are using good form and a good grip. Make sure you don't have any hard face contact on the string. This can make tuning impossible if too much face contact is allowed on the string. You may want to experiment with this before shooting a session through the paper.

After this walkback tune.

Google Easton arrow tuning and download the PDF. Lots of good info there

This is very sound advice!

I'd paper tune it before doing anything else. You can move things around enough to get the sights on target, but it won't mean jack if the arrow isn't flying straight.