Thanks in advance for your replies here guys.

I will be purchasing a crossbow soon here. I have a few questions:

How well do the rope cockers work, and how hard are they to use? I was thinking about a hand crank, but they are pretty expensive. Thinking I might try the rope cocker first.

I've read of the importance to wax the string and/or cables. What kind of wax do you recommend?

With archery, I'm a firm believer that speed kills. I'll be getting a xbow that runs in the 345-350 f.p.s. range. What broadheads do you suggest I start out with? Fixed blades or mechanical?

Thanks again, guys.

I use a rope cocker (the kind with two pulleys) on my older Horton crossbow and it does work fine. The nice thing about the rope cocking device is that it fits in my pocket.

It takes moderate effort to cock the crossbow but your shoulder and back muscles do most of the work.

I use Horton brand wax I bought from an archery shop for use on the string and a different lube intended for the rail that the string slides upon.

I have only killed one deer so far with the crossbow, using a mechanical blade (Spitfire 85's). It did a fine job. Supposedly the mechanical broadheads shoot to the same place as field points do. In my case, I have found that to be true. I would expect a fixed blade to deviate a bit from the POI of a field point.

In either case, proper sight-in with hunting bolts is essential.

GG, Used one for the last 8 years out of need. The rope cocker works like a charm and cuts the draw weight in half. Highly recommend it. I just went to the crank, after my third shoulder surgery. Not as handy as the rope but does take the strain away from your back, shoulders, etc.. Give me a shout if you need more details about their use.

Ray

Depending on how you hunt, the rope cocker may be impractical to use. Say from a climbing stand.
I chose VPA broadheads.
Im not a speed demon.
I figure 35-40 max yardage.

Depending on the make of crossbow, some recommend waxing string after every few shots, some don't even recommend waxing. Follow manufacters instructions and you should be fine.

As stated, the rope cocking device cuts the weight you pull in half, so with a 200 pound pull bow you are pulling 100 pounds per side.

Lots of guys seem top like the Slick Trick's for fixed blade heads. I have been using the Swhacker mechanical and have no complaints. There are a number of mechanical heads that get good reviews, and a few that seem to get more than a few bad reviews. You can check on what you have been using and likely find several using that head with their crossbow.

Pulled this...
Out of his front left shoulder.
All healed over.

After loseing a few deer to light heads out of a Xbow, I went with the Slick Trick Xbow head weights 175 grains, not lost a deer in the last few years, it will shoot thru both shoulders, not that thats a good shot, still like double lung shots the best!

Many of your better crossbows will come with a rope cocker, most likely because of the speed you looking for, and the package deals for that performance.

You going to have two tubes of "stuff" , one will be wax for the string/cable, but you also need "rail lube" which is different than the wax, it's a oil type liquid that wipes on. Brand isn't as important as just using it is.

On some crossbows, you can smell the friction on the strings when you shoot one without lube.

I use a rope cocker, in the stand and on the ground. You should be able to try the rope device out where you are buying the crossbow, and shoot the crossbow before you buy one. Most shops have demos x-bows for use.

Be sure to adjust the rope on the Rope Cocker to fit your crossbow. Otherwise if left too long you may have to pull harder than needed to cock. Tom

Excalibur sells a 150gr. broadhead that is absolutely LETHAL.

My FIL and BIL both use them in theirs. FIL has a Vortex and BIL has the Matrix 355.

They work fine and are easy to use. You can make one in a few minutes with a couple of small alumnum pulleys and and a piece of rope, plus some wood for handles. Take a Hacksaw and cut the eye off to one side to form a small hook in each pulley. Thread the rope through and attach the handles. Put a pulley on each side of your bow, close in to the center as you can get, and run the middle of the rope over the end of the stock. Put your foot in the stirrup and pull the handles. Done deal. miles

Rope Cocker
Fixed blades 125gr min but prefer heavier
Speed not as important as sound
Also need optics that are good in low light

For my dad's setup on his Excalibur I had the bolts made with heavier inserts so he had a better selection of broadheads to choose from. He could then shoot any 100 grain broadhead and the weight would be right. He chose the G5 fixed blades.

well gophergunner I will tell u what little I know been carrying one for about 20yrs now and silence is golden don't worry about speed to much oh you want to get there but 300 to 330 is fine been shooting muzzys for a while now I shoot a wicked ridge 175lb draw little over 315 elk don't know the diff slips threw one like butter remember sharp and slient this old Missouri braids keep em sharp