I hear this conversation all the time about draw weight. I suppose because of my business in Africa I get this often as well. " How much Draw weight do you need to hunt Africa"
It's no different then here, decent weight arrows and flawless heads make the kill with equal priority to the weight drawn. I've shot with a 63b draw at 28" for most of my life. There were periods of time when I shot heavy bows over 70lbs. I'm not sure I have seen this additional weight as an advantage overall. However for some applications I still have a bow that will draw 74lbs and have used it for specific situations.
Unfortunately there are folks with a short Draw length and for them it's usually more important to draw heavier weights. I'm speaking for men in general. Draw length adds a significant amount of power to the arrow!
I can shoot the 63lb bow as many shots as I want without fatigue and I can draw it at any angle under any conditions with any clothing. The 74lb bow...... not the same! I can draw it comfortably about 12-15 shots, After that I start to fatigue on draw but the accuracy stays good for a quite a while. The holding weight is effortless, it's the heavy draw weight that makes the practice tougher then I like. I cannot draw this bow comfortably in every position or with any clothing. When I set it to 64-65lbs, I'm golden and can shoot it for longer sessions and in any condition. It's also much easier to shoot after two weeks of daily shooting then after a couple months of not shooting as much.
Many female clients in Africa have come with 26" draw and shoot 45-50 lbs. They harvest a lot of game. We must use a high level of discipline with this setup though. Shooting quartering away at 40 yards on a 400b animal is not a plan for success with this level of power.
When the Ladies are hunting with this lighter equipment, broadside at 20 -30 yards on almost anything we would hunt is just fine. The proper broadhead at this power level is critical in this scenario though. I very strongly prefer a cut on contact head. Choosing these heads is so personal with many people have very strong opinions. I know I have mine too!
In any case, if you know with an actual scale measurement, I'm curious what the average bow hunters draw weight is, and if you want add draw length too.
I'll start with my two bows: 63lbs at 28.5" Mathews Switchback 74lbs at 28.5" Elite Energy 32
58-60#/29" Draw w/ arrows in the 370-400gr range. Last few years with a Hoyt Charger, prior to that a Hoyt Ultratec. Have shot Elk, Deer, and Antelope with no issues. I do shoot fixed blade broadheads and only take good quality (broadside or quartering away) shots. This year I will be shooting a Hoyt Defiant 60#/29" with most likely Easton Bloodline arrows and 90gr Muzzy Broadheads. A bit on the light side at ~370gr but super accurate.
I used to shoot heavier recurves and am seriously considering a set of 70 lb limbs for the no cam. Can't seem to justify it when the FMJs carry the weight and shoot so well and I am just killing deer.
Probably why I have issues with my shoulders today...
Used to run around 70 quite often for many years, 25-40 or so. Then dropped it a bit to about 60-65.
I can't recall what limbs I had made for my recurve, IIRC close to 60 if not that.
If I use compound now, i have no clue what it is but figure 60-62 or so.
With all that, wife shot 45-55 ish for many years when she still hunted. And we had to look for her arrows often... but due to the broadhead choice and arrow weight. Head even exited a boar hog over 350 pounds after it cut the heart....
To me, a bit of speed, good head design, sharp, and enough weight to penetrate, tuned up the right way, 40 pounds or more will kill a LOT of stuff that walks...
But then in the end I just do not believe in shooting past 15 steps maybe a couple more max. And its everything beyond that thats become an issue in my life and my wifes life. Everytime we follow our rule, it was 100% good.
Makes us pass a lot of shots, but I"m good with that too. No biggie.
I won't even shoot past 15 with a crossbow....
And it has NOTHING to do with how accurately we can or can't shoot for sure.....
Arrow weight for compounds was 430gr(Oneida did not tune well w 55/75 GTs and I dumped it to get a 50-70# model to drop to 65#). I'm not running 3 freakin different spines for my gear.
Recurve was 480 to 560gr. All shot cut on contact fixed blades.
I do not see recurves in Africa very much. A couple guys that were doing both bow and gun brought recurves recently. They were both takedown recurves for the ease of travel.
Neither was able to shoot game with the bow, only one had a shot and he missed. The issue we have for most recurves is the hide size/design. We have build most of the best archery hide locations with a type of box blind, or a 1/2 underground blind that on the outside looks like a big termite mound.
These don't always have the roof height that fits a longer recurve or long bow, but work perfect with a compound. We do have some that fit easily, and some that are close depending upon the height of the archer.
I have has a number of guys hunt with me that we build a blind of brush as needed, these have no roof and work perfectly. I'll guess I have had 100 archery hunters in my career. Of those I think maybe a dozen with recurves, the rest were compounds. If I count only the full time archery numbers, not those that also used a rifle.... The number is about 1/2 of this, I'm guessing of course but I think this is pretty accurate because they were all my clients after all!
I am able to provide a very high quality experience with a large well developed property that does only archery. There is no gun hunting allowed. It's run by archers and owned by archers. This is the really best place to hunt with bow and arrow in the whole of RSA. All the PH's are bow hunters and 100% of the staff "gets" bow hunting.
Most of the outfitters in RSA will take bow hunters, but lack the specific needs and set up development that a bow hunter would like. One of the reasons my Archery hunting trips have been so well accepted. I do get it! I set up things perfectly as if it were for myself! I never propose one of my hunters take a shot at 70 yards assuming that it's a chip shot. Few PH's understand 30 plus meters is a long shot. Most feel that distance is an impossible task because they have hunted for many years where a 50 meter shot is very close range, 75-100 is average and over 150 is a long shot!
There are a few places now that claim 100% bow hunting only. Doing my due diligence I have learned that of those there are really only a handful in the whole of Southern Africa that actually hold this rule fast. The rest offer archery only, but allow firearms to the clients to " pay the bills" when the hunters are not getting the game to pay the trophy fees.
I was a Hunting guide with hounds in Wa. and Id. for decade. I took 30-35 bear hunters a year. Many were archery hunters. Quite often the archer would be looking for arrows that fell to the ground when his bow mounted quiver went empty trying to shoot a treed bear. Shooting steeply straight up provides some unique challenges. They usually defaulted to my revolver to take the bear or finish the bear. However in almost every case they took the photo's with the bear and their bow in the picture.
In one instance a fella took a monster bear well over 20" skull. He sent me the pope and young paperwork to enter this bear into the books. He shot that bear with a friend of mines, 30.30 rifle when he shot all his arrows and only wounded this bear in the back leg. I sent back the paperwork and told him I could not be the witness to this as the bear was killed with a rifle, not the bow. This was the most angry and aggressive client of my career. He was threatening and violent to me on the phone.
This leads me to believe that in some of these archery only hunting operations that do not hold fast to the bow hunting rule. They probably carry on with the hunters using a firearm but have the bow in the photo so they can go home and tell any story they like. This is a huge benefit to the outfitters business. The friends and family are none the wiser when the stories are told the photo's posted on the net.
Right now I'm shooting a 60lb prime, a 76lb elite and a 89lb elite. I practice all the time with the heavier bow, so odd position drawing and number of shots before fatigue aren't an issue. I love the idea of a 700gr arrow out of 28" draw 89lb bow. I'm hoping to run that set up through a moose next fall in Newfoundland.
I started doing circuit training a few years ago and it really helped with drawing a bow. As long as it's comfortable and you can hold it, I can't see extra draw weight as a bad thing.
I shoot 70lbs@29" draw out of my stevens inception. It is pretty swift and with the proper setup if easy to hold back for awhile. I have never had any trouble drawing it from any position. I do agree you need to be able to control your draw and hold it back if need be for awhile and still make an accurate shot. If you can do this I think you should shoot what comfortable.
I'll probably back it down to 60# for the season this fall. I can draw much more than that, but when 60# is generating a good bit more than 75 ft.lbs, and can be held for very, very long periods of time, why bother with anything else? A 400+ grain arrow at 280+ with a COC broadhead from a tuned bow isn't going to bounce off.
Im pretty confident I can hold it back for twice that.
Simply holding it back is one thing. Holding it and being steady to make a kill shot on a deer at an irregular range is something completely different.
Right now I'm shooting a 60lb prime, a 76lb elite and a 89lb elite. I practice all the time with the heavier bow, so odd position drawing and number of shots before fatigue aren't an issue. I love the idea of a 700gr arrow out of 28" draw 89lb bow. I'm hoping to run that set up through a moose next fall in Newfoundland.
I draw rather slow and steady, push pull, not much movement (bow is pointed at the target- doesn't move much vertically in the draw).
Practice (or lack of it) and poundage doesn't matter.
Shot 80+ for a long while, bowed my spine so it looked like I was left handed and suffered overuse syndrome.
Nope right handed.
Not a prob until a vert slipped, and would off and on for years. Even when normal, it'd often click when I walked.
Over time my shoulder burned, pain down left arm. Then the right shoulder. Recurves shelved and back to compound.......minimal relief. Indoors and 3D were done.
Only a few dozen shots to check sights for deer season.
And then one day I was goofing off around the house (not archery related). Had only shot for hunting season- over the last 5 yrs (so spine straightened up)...........and a big white flash of pain.
Staggered into the bedroom and laid down........and my shoulder didn't hurt (ruined sleep for yrs before).
My bent spine had a rib get broken when bent, healed funky and over time pinched a nerve. Spine straight, rebroke rib (sternum and back pain) and.........unpinched the nerve.
Babied it for a month, bought a 50# Bear Grizzly and shot 50 freakin' arrows in one sitting, pain free.
Gotta be friggin' kidding me.
I have since backed off some #, shoot way less, and things have been fine. 2 yrs ago I did break a finger on one hand, and rip pulley tendons on a finger on the other, and still shot a 60# Blackwidow.
But every year means other aches come along, and stuff doesnt work like it used to, injuries take longer.
So I'm proly gonna have my next Widow made at 52#. If things get even better add a set of heavier limbs.
My 48# old B50 strung rig is a joy to shoot. Got it for informal 3D and deer.
I can shoot heavier...........but don't think I need to. Happy to run it again this year. It papertunes perfectly.
Ive shot 70# for last few years. Todays bows draw super easy at that weight. I just moved from an Obsession Def Con6 to an Obsession K34. The 34 in stock form will be used for target. Later this year i will be putting short 70# limbs on it. Should put ATA around 33" and BH around 6 3/8. Should IBO around 354. Draw cycle on the K34 is nothing short of amazing. Smoothest drawing bow I have ever felt. Period. And that covers a ton of bows by every manufacturer out there. I have 65# limbs on currently. And this thing feels like a much lighter weight. Dont "feel" it hit peak wt and theres no dump into the valley
Ive shot 70# for last few years. Todays bows draw super easy at that weight. I just moved from an Obsession Def Con6 to an Obsession K34. The 34 in stock form will be used for target. Later this year i will be putting short 70# limbs on it. Should put ATA around 33" and BH around 6 3/8. Should IBO around 354. Draw cycle on the K34 is nothing short of amazing. Smoothest drawing bow I have ever felt. Period. And that covers a ton of bows by every manufacturer out there. I have 65# limbs on currently. And this thing feels like a much lighter weight. Dont "feel" it hit peak wt and theres no dump into the valley
No offense intended, but since everyone knows you're an Obsession dealer is it possible for you to make a post about bowhunting or archery where you DON'T come across as a salesman? We get it; you like Obsession bows and you shoot and sell them. However, there are many great bows on the market and a bow - perhaps much more so than a rifle - is a purely individual preference decision. No bow, or maker, is right or "perfect" for everyone.
I think Oneidas draw silky smooth, but due to design require a heavier spine (proly due to huge overtravel of string. Never did rig one with a string stop to see if that helped.......since much of the joy of such rigs is nothing in the middle (sight picture or other).
Lot of crap moving, but they are fun/cool.
Not impressed with many of today's hot rods. They start too harsh for what I'm used to.
Heard the SBXT one of the best Mathews made.........I thought it a spongy rig, if hybridized with Hoyt cam and a halfs it might have been OK. I had a SBXT and killed deer with it, shot OK............but lacked the feel I prefer.
The factory grip is a POS, a Torqueless on it helped, but felt a little funky at first.
My Hoyt Protec was my fave, if only it wasn't such a tank. Just too damn heavy when outfitted and balanced right (has to add hefty brass weight to stab).
Buddy got the Halon 7, another had the Chill. Tech got the new PSE $$$ rig for indoors.
Eh, you wanna crap your pants on bow cost.......look at Blacktail custom recurves....
makes my want of a plywood Widow seem downright cheapskate.
Draw weight...........used to be a 100# 30" draw Hoyt Prohunter at Lengel's gunshop in Wabash IN.
They had the "warning- draw at own risk" sign hanging by it.
Used to draw it and shock the folks around (I'm rather scrawny, or used to be back then anyway LOL). Right or left handed, smooth and looked like I was drawing 60#.
Roundwheelers are easier.
FWIW my coworker bought that rig, he a tank of a dude, shot it at 90# and said it slammed deer to the ground LOL.
My PSE Gorilla Squad Mach 4 topped out at 96#. I couldn't draw it. 92# was a fight. Shot it at 86# for a week and backed it down to 82. Shot it there for 2 yrs, indoor and out.
Buddy got a Hoyt Rambo when those came out, shimmed it to 98#. I shot it all day, fingers........and went home and went to bed.
Last Oneida I had was 80#. It hurt me to shoot it. Getting old sucks.
I could and maybe even work a bit into it, but am lazy and don't need my back jacked up again. So had it at 70#. Backed off a bit, think it better to get a 60-70 and run it on high end.
Alas, no deal on a Black Eagle 2 yet.
The new hotrods like the PSE Omen, hurt me at 70#. I can shoot other rigs of that poundage and higher OK. The speed demons are so tight at the start, either age or what I'm used to (dunno)..........they just suck IMHO.
Of course with such efficiency, proly don't need to shoot the old #. So a 70# "used to be" could run 60#.
But even then, they start so hard, I think they still suck.
Ive shot 70# for last few years. Todays bows draw super easy at that weight. I just moved from an Obsession Def Con6 to an Obsession K34. The 34 in stock form will be used for target. Later this year i will be putting short 70# limbs on it. Should put ATA around 33" and BH around 6 3/8. Should IBO around 354. Draw cycle on the K34 is nothing short of amazing. Smoothest drawing bow I have ever felt. Period. And that covers a ton of bows by every manufacturer out there. I have 65# limbs on currently. And this thing feels like a much lighter weight. Dont "feel" it hit peak wt and theres no dump into the valley
No offense intended, but since everyone knows you're an Obsession dealer is it possible for you to make a post about bowhunting or archery where you DON'T come across as a salesman? We get it; you like Obsession bows and you shoot and sell them. However, there are many great bows on the market and a bow - perhaps much more so than a rifle - is a purely individual preference decision. No bow, or maker, is right or "perfect" for everyone.
My buddy has a Prime (think "Rival"). He's been on the hunt for indoor and 3d rig.......has had a fair number of $$$ bows. I trust his judgement, and he loves the G5. Haven't shot it yet but will next time I go over.
His standby is a Bowtech Assassin. That bow was IMHO a "great buy". Fast enough, quiet enough..........and didn't cost a kidney.
I used to shoot the top end stuff, but deer don't care how much you spend. Got hurt and dropped out of 3D way back, never will get back to that level, just shoot for fun.
So while top end gear is super sweet, I just don't need it anymore . Proly cant justify it shooting wise either (assuming other stuff fits and feels good for lesser price).
Mid level stuff works good enough for me. Top end stuff a few yrs old can be solid bargains too. Esp when your friends need the "latest and greatest" and have the same DL as you.
My cuz gets his stuff used, like new, about 3 yrs old, from a buddy we work with LOL. Bows depreciate so much........bargain hunters can make out like a bandit.
My buddy has a Prime (think "Rival"). He's been on the hunt for indoor and 3d rig.......has had a fair number of $$$ bows. I trust his judgement, and he loves the G5. Haven't shot it yet but will next time I go over.
His standby is a Bowtech Assassin. That bow was IMHO a "great buy". Fast enough, quiet enough..........and didn't cost a kidney.
I used to shoot the top end stuff, but deer don't care how much you spend. Got hurt and dropped out of 3D way back, never will get back to that level, just shoot for fun.
So while top end gear is super sweet, I just don't need it anymore . Proly cant justify it shooting wise either (assuming other stuff fits and feels good for lesser price).
Mid level stuff works good enough for me. Top end stuff a few yrs old can be solid bargains too. Esp when your friends need the "latest and greatest" and have the same DL as you.
My cuz gets his stuff used, like new, about 3 yrs old, from a buddy we work with LOL. Bows depreciate so much........bargain hunters can make out like a bandit.
Archery talk classifieds you can pick up yr old bows in some cases this yr bows for dirt cheap prices. Those guys over their must have more money than brains lol. They will buy (insert bow name) month later sell it so they can buy another bow. I picked up a 2015 obsession addiction obb less than a 100 shots on the string $575 shipped..
Ive shot 70# for last few years. Todays bows draw super easy at that weight. I just moved from an Obsession Def Con6 to an Obsession K34. The 34 in stock form will be used for target. Later this year i will be putting short 70# limbs on it. Should put ATA around 33" and BH around 6 3/8. Should IBO around 354. Draw cycle on the K34 is nothing short of amazing. Smoothest drawing bow I have ever felt. Period. And that covers a ton of bows by every manufacturer out there. I have 65# limbs on currently. And this thing feels like a much lighter weight. Dont "feel" it hit peak wt and theres no dump into the valley
No offense intended, but since everyone knows you're an Obsession dealer is it possible for you to make a post about bowhunting or archery where you DON'T come across as a salesman? We get it; you like Obsession bows and you shoot and sell them. However, there are many great bows on the market and a bow - perhaps much more so than a rifle - is a purely individual preference decision. No bow, or maker, is right or "perfect" for everyone.
Prime Rize, and I've owned every major bow company's "flagship" bows over the last year (with the exception of Obsession, sorry 280A). The Rize is my favorite, hands down. If you haven't tried a Prime, I HIGHLY encourage it.
Another item of note, if you are into archery a press and draw board is critical. If I had to run to the bow shop every time something needed to be done I would get out of archery. There is no way to properly set up a bow and tune, change strings, etc without them. Also, it allows you to take advantage of the deals to be had at AT. You can buy a new bow on the cheap, set it up and try it out, then trip it with little loss, if need be.
Once my bow is set up and tuned I'm good to go Had the Heli-m for 4 yrs and had to do nothing to it,except wax string and cable. The latest problem needed to go to a dealer to get the new cam under warranty no big deal. I have my Outback as a back up bow in case I have a repair issue in season.
In one instance a fella took a monster bear well over 20" skull. He sent me the pope and young paperwork to enter this bear into the books. He shot that bear with a friend of mines, 30.30 rifle when he shot all his arrows and only wounded this bear in the back leg. I sent back the paperwork and told him I could not be the witness to this as the bear was killed with a rifle, not the bow. This was the most angry and aggressive client of my career. He was threatening and violent to me on the phone.
I shot traditional bows for years in the 50# range, but when I stepped up to a compound bow, 60-65# is more than enough for whitetail. I'm a 27" DL and speed is not my goal. Built for comfort. The bows these days are light years ahead of what I started with 20 years ago.
Greg, My Energy 32" at 28.5 is also at 280ish with about 65Lb draw. We have the same results more or less, I think this is a safe bet that it's an accurate power level!
Gotta love the way that thing "snaps" into place when you hit the back wall. I can hold for minutes if needed! I love this bow!
Greg, My Energy 32" at 28.5 is also at 280ish with about 65Lb draw. We have the same results more or less, I think this is a safe bet that it's an accurate power level!
Gotta love the way that thing "snaps" into place when you hit the back wall. I can hold for minutes if needed! I love this bow!
Yes, I am liking the bow, and it has been consistent over two seasons now.
I hadn't shot it since late December, and fell right back into the groove this morning at the range. Still stacking arrows when I do my part.
Martin Ridge Hunter,75 lb draw weight with 27" draw length. I forget the exact length and spine of the carbon arrows I'm using, but they're fairly long. The heads are 100grs. and this being a single cam bow, I'm only getting around 255 fps. Short draw lengths suck for generating high speeds, but I shot a lot of deer starting in the '80's with a bow that didn't quite break 200 fps, so I don't worry too much about speed.
55# for me takes some practice, 60# even more. Work beats me up pretty good, so if I wake up on the wrong side of the bed, just makes things tougher.
Last yr the 48# was easy. No snap shooting either, am gap shooting and holding it for a spell to aim. Stupid easy. Aim a little low for 20, a little high for 25, and same sight picture for 20 at 30 (but change anchor).
3 sight pictures, 2 anchors. Same as I did for the deer in the pic.
Used 55/75 w 100gr brass insert for the HS58 60#. Lucked into the sight picture deal. 35/55 w 50gr added, same holds (close enough anyway) for the 48#.
I prefer not gap shooting but ripped pulley tendons on one finger, broke one on the other hand, so was out of practice (month or so before season) so tried something different. Worked.
Shooting Easton FMJ 6 mm 320 spine arrows for the Impulse and Synergy and Easton FMJ 340 spine arrows on the Energy 35.
That's a huge amount of power!
I've been very happy with the penetration on big boned animals (mostly elk).
They certainly aren't the fastest arrows but I've been very impressed with them.
Low end, figuring a 500 grain arrow, that Energy should be delivering about 80 ft.lbs. The Impulse with similar weights almost 90 ft.lbs. Yeah, I'd say penetration on big boned animals should be just fine!
2014 obsession evolution 29/70 2015 obsession addiction 29/65 2008 bowtech 82nd airborne 29/70 (I don't shoot anymore draw cycle is bad compared to my newer bows) 2006 bowtech allegiance 29/70 with fast mods. I pull this one out to remind how far technology has come 😁
I started my bow hunting in the early 70's at 70 lb pull and tried 80 lb's but realized over the years a 60 lb pull will shoot through any big game animal if you use a razor sharp broadhead. I have no use with any bow over 60 lb pull these days.
In reading this thread and the seemingly honest replies it looks like a majority of guys are around the 60 lb range. It's only a few that go beyond 70.
I think this is a typical cross section of bow hunters here. I'm not sure that anything over 60-65 is needed to kill anything but the big thick skinned game of Africa.
I know for certain that 55-60 will kill all the thin skinned game of the world with a good broad head.
I do prefer 60 plus for the rage hypodermics though.
I started my bow hunting in the early 70's at 70 lb pull and tried 80 lb's but realized over the years a 60 lb pull will shoot through any big game animal if you use a razor sharp broadhead. I have no use with any bow over 60 lb pull these days.
My first bow was a darton lightning, xx75's and xx78's we're the schitt, 2213's and 2413's is what I ran for bucks and bulls. Moved up to a Pearson spoiler @84 lbs, overdraw etc, then onto mathews. Technology today 70lbs is all a guy needs.
Hoyt 2010 carbon matrix 50-60lb. limbs -on two different scales it pulls only 58lbs. So ? 58 lbs. at 29 inchs 454 gr. arrow .
I have a 60-70 hoyt powerhawk backed off to 64lbs. -at 72 lbs. I was never real accurate with it.
I'm 56 years old in pretty good shape but don't want to chance a shoulder injury. I wish the carbon matrix pulled about 63-64 lbs. that would be great for some of the bigger hogs at my hunting lease.
Prime Alloy @60lbs. Prior to getting it a two months ago my old Browning deluxe bushmaster @ 50 lbs that I shot fingers with finally bit the dust. Might have to get a recurve for still hunting big woods and leave the Prime to stand hunting as it gets awkward to carry.
Ha! My first "hunting bow" was a Martin Bobcat. Damned near triangular cams, harsh draw, and LOUD!
I started with a Martin Warthog - Wood riser and heavy gold colored cams - I liked it, did not know any different back then. After that I shot a PSE Vector II - that was a pretty decent bow. Moved on to a Hoyt Ram Hunter (just before the Rambo) and have been shooting mainly hoyts ever since. Probably a dozen or so in the last 20 years mostly Protecs and Ultratecs - a Charger for about 3 years and now shooting a 2016 Defiant 30 and can say it is easily the best hunting bow I have ever shot - not bad as a target bow either. I won our winter leagues and shot the high qualifying round of a local tourney in the BHFS class with it.
The Martin Warthog was also my first compound bow. Only fingers back then. I moved to the Cougar magnum from there. Once I started with the release it was with a Mathews legacy, for a year. The draw was too much for me with the draw curve it had. Then the switchbackXT, Without question the best bow I've ever shot in my life. Stuck with Mathews for 12 plus years until I recently bought the Elite Energy 32.
Still seem to pick up my Switchback when I go hunting. It's like well worn boots for me. Especially after Harlon restrung it and dialed it in. He costs me extra arrows now unless I shoot one at a time.
My SBXT was smooth, but the factory grip was crap (Torqueless made it tolerable). Thought it felt a bit spongy, compared to my Hoyt Protec. Did like the Mathews over the Hoyt weight wise...........my Hoyt was a freakin' boat anchor.
Thought about hybridizing the Mathews, adding Hoyt cams and figure out the cable tune.
But I healed up and was able to go back to recurve.
I added a torquless grip to mine as well. Another good solution to the torquing issue has been the IQ bow sight with the built in no peep. It instantly identifies problem hand position on the bow.
Probably not for everyone but it was a nice additional feature for me. Not needed if all your hunting is from a stand or blind where there is consistency to draw and anchor. For spot and stalk on all sorts of ground and positions, it's a 100% winner!
I just came home with a brand new Elite Impulse 31. After shooting for the first time in quite a while last week, I noticed my elbow was bothering me so I had them set it right at 65 with a 28" draw instead of my normal 70 lbs.
My Hoyt Xtec got a new string/cables and I had them back it off a bit to 67 lbs with a 28" draw. Maybe once I get back into the swing of things I'll max them both out again but maybe not...
Shot a 60 lb max bow in 2014. Sent a 100gr G5 Striker through a bull elk at 40yds. Shot a 70 lb max bow in 2015. About mid summer I got curious and backed the 70lb bow down to 62 lbs just to see what sort of difference it would make to my point of impact at 40 yards. Arrows had about 2" more drop than they did at 70lb. When I saw that I decided that there was no reason to crank it back up. It is much easier to shoot for longer sessions and I can't see that I'm giving up anything.
Should I be embarrassed to not know exactly? It's a 70# Mathews screwed down all the way. I probably should get a lighter bow because I like the limbs tightened down on the riser and I'm getting old.
52# Matthews works great on those damp cold morning when you need to draw smoothly and slowly without a lot of movement. My age number and draw weight number have crossed paths many years ago! Wish it weren't so but that's life!!
I'm shooting a 50# Bowtech Allegiance maxed out at 52#'s. I have no problem what so ever getting passthru's on deer here in NC. Patience and shot placement are the key, and of course a scary sharp broadhead.
An old Mathews Black Max II, 73 lbs at 31"s, have a Toelke Whip longbow that's about 62 lbs at full draw, can't hit chit with it though, I need a GD damn pin!
Thought I posted on this awhile ago, but don't see it so I must have gotten interrupted ..
Quite a few years ago I returned to trad bows. Most of my friends- well all of them actually have either stayed with compounds or moved on to cross bows. I don't care what they shoot; I just enjoy shooting instinctively, and we have a great time.
My hunting bows range from 50# to 55#s. 50# Liberty chief longbow 53# Blacktail recurve 54# Rampart longbow 55# Tall Tines recurve
Getting to the point where I am struggling a bit about which bow to take to Canada this fall on a bear hunt. I will probably use either a STOS two blade or Grizzley SB two blade, depending on what weight I need.
Last year I used the Blacktail with a Sitka Spruce shaft and the Stos 160 grain head to take a 6 ft black bear. I got a complete pass thru lungs shot and the boar travelled about 60 yards before dropping.
I have a 2015 Bowtech Prodigy, shooting it currently in the "Classic" mode at 28"DL and a 450gr arrow. As a result of shooting it in the classic mode, I have moved up a touch in draw weight and I'm shooting somewhere in the 72# range I'd bet.
Trying to get a bit more speed out of the heavy arrow, and I feel that's a nice compromise vs shooting it in the 'performance' setting. It has a much deeper valley and easier to hold at full draw where as the performance mode is a bit 'jumpy'
Seems to be a nice compromise for me so far and I'm shooting decent out to 80 yards.
My first compound was a Jennings Model T! I sold my Prime over the winter, and now picked up a Bowtech RPM 360 at 74 lbs. I just put on an IQ Pro XT sight. This set-up really moves an arrow along!
msu hunter; I'll bet that 62lbs shoots like a dream and makes you wonder why you were drawing so much wight in the past!
I too shot a 70ish lb draw for much of my life. Dropping down to a 62 lb bow was almost like shooting a toy! I really enjoy the lighter draw weight and I can practice with it endlessly.
I also have a 74 lb max draw weight Elite energy. I shoot it at 65lbs. It's a far more pleasant experience then shooting over 70lbs. From this thread I think is becomes clearer that 70lbs is about the maximum level of draw for most folks. Many shoot higher draw weight for some period of their younger lives. However most that continue to shoot over 60 and 70 years old. do not shoot at 70 plus lbs!
I think the companies would do well to make bows that are 65b draw rather then 70. At 65 you could drop below 60 with a couple full turns on the limbs. Yet still lock them down and have 65plus. It seems to me that 65-70lbs is the realistic limit for the great majority of shooters, not the 70 plus so many people think they must have.
Im my experience with a pretty good cross section of hunters shooting game with me from under 100lbs to over 2000 lbs, The vast majority of fantastic shooters have been well under 70lbs. Those over 70 have struggled and made the majority of questionable shots. We simply don't need over 70 lbs to make lethal effective shots under 30 yards. When folks start wanting to shoot 50-75 yards or more...... the complications go through the roof and drive higher and higher draw weights.
My son was 10 when he shot this 110 pound sow with a 40# compound. We used Magnus stingers with a bleeder blade, which I sharpened and honed to a scary sharp edge. The arrow went through but not completely. It stuck out about 10 inches. He shoots a 60# Matthews EZ7 now (he just turned 19). We were in a 2 man ladder stand when he shot the sow. Great memory!!
Just bought the Hoyt Defiant...65 lbs / 28 inch draw (Had the Mathews Helium....Been using the Rage with great results on Long Island Whitetail so no change there.
Jerry Hill Longbow, 60# @ 28", I normally draw 28.5"-29".
Second bow is an original Bear Takedown, "A" riser, with 55lb @ 28" draw limbs.
Third bow for thick brush and treestand is a Martin Rebel recurve, 45# @ 28".
POC Arrows or Gold Tips fletched with three 4" shield cut right wing feathers with 145 gr two-blade Magnus or 160 gr two-blade Zwickey Eskimo for the 60# & 55# bows. 125gr Zwickey Eskimos or Magnus two-blade for the 45# Rebel.
Mathews Feather Max set @ 60lbs with a 27" draw length. Shooting 505gr total weight 28" long Predator arrows. Topped with 125 gr Muzzy 3 blade. No issues, ever. Thanks, Tom
My 2 longbow's draw 52#, arrows are 650gr+. I used to shoot 65#+ trad bows but my draw elbow was paying for it and I had to drop down in weight. No issues with the lighter weight on deer.
Got a 2017 PSE Infinity.......set it at 58#. It's my backup bow to my 48# recurve. PSE will be shot release. Still have the Golden Eagle falcon........set at 55#. Two more weeks and I can try shooting!
I shoot a Mission Endeavor @ 55 LBS. It is not much but I risk hurting my rotator cuffs and when it is real cold outside and I am cold , I can hardly pull it back when a deer comes by . I have had 2 times in my life I was so cold I could not pull back on a deer.
Matched pr of 1970 Bear A handles,custom limbs.. One @46#-other @51#.29" draw.Longbow;Bob Lee Elite,59" on a 17" riser,48@29".Been shooting trad only for almost 50 years.Still at it.
The story with me was starting with a Red Wing Hunter at 45#, first year to hunt deer. I made a perfect behind the shoulder shot on a nice PA doe, she bolted and I could see the arrow still going it as she ran, 200 yard or more tracking job let alone getting her out. Bow was accurate and I shot a 292 out of 300 field course (Ohio, 30 targets). My first year I shot 3 deer, Ohio, PA and MI. I changed to a Wing presentation 2 at 62#, 30". Heavy arrows, it really worked with pass throughs. The bow was a take down recurve. Best bow I ever had until a limb broke. Tried the bear take down but the limb brackets would bend. Still shot good. I loved the old Kodiak until it broke. I went to Jennings compounds at 70# but they broke a lot of limbs. I shot so much and got so strong I could not release the strings so I kept going heavier. I shot target with 50, 55 and then 82#. Last bows I have are all 82# Brownings but shoulder injuries not related to shooting now have me with a Ravin cross bow. It took years to get a release, I was stubborn being a finger shooter. I could grip my bow scale and bottom it at what I figure was 120#. I have a huge middle knuckle that a revolver bangs. I learned it was not speed but arrow weight that killed. Just like heavy revolver bullets do. Most of my arrows started at 2219 to 2419 with 125 gr cut on contact. My wood arrows for a longbow used 175 gr heads. Snuffer heads. Many compounds make a high frequency noise we can't hear and I had deer move enough at 10 yards to miss. One day deer were coming past an opening at 25 yards, I missed the first 2 when they bent legs to jump. A third was coming so I aimed low, she did go down but I hit her in the shoulder, arrow went through it and the spine, cut the ball joint in half in the off shoulder, was sticking over half through and knocked her sideways off her feet, the arrow stuck in the ground and she slid down it. After this season with the Ravin I figure I have killed about 260 deer with arrows. My opinion is about 60# is enough with the proper weight arrows. The speed today is from light arrows and bows that don't break from almost a dry fire. I feel you would do better to tune a heavy arrow instead. I watch the hunting shows and see arrows stuck in deer so they come back the next day to find them. Can you eat them? Never seen a trophy hunter gut a deer either. I admit to hunt for meat and have shot the doe with a buck. Now my brother in law will kill a big Ohio buck and get it turned into jerky and he sends all of it to our troops overseas. How about a big OORAH to my brother in law? Thank all for their service.
I'm shooting 52# at my draw in my custom Centaur longbow with about 700gr arrows and haven't failed to get a passthrough yet. Shooting 70# in my Mathews with 600gr arrows.
Bob Lee 51# at 31" and Martin Hunter 60# @ 28" I draw it 31" when I shot traditional. I may start shooting again when the weather gets better. I'll have to work up to shooting the Martin though.
I have a PSE now, I have at least a hundred of the old 4 blade Rocky Mountain 125 grain broadheads. I bought all I could when I heard they weren’t making them anymore. Young ones are ok to make sausage with. Big Aoudads aren’t worth a damn!!
It's been a decade ago, but I shot completely through a whitetail doe that weighed 122 lbs after field dressing and hanging overnight while using a 46 lb longbow shooting a 425 grain Beeman ICS/4-blade Magnus Stinger at a whopping 185 fps. She had been standing about 30 paces from the base of the tree I was in.
I also shot a 440 grain Easton Axxis with the same broadhead from my 51 lb recurve at a fresh shoulder blade from a cow elk we had just finished boning out that I propped up against a stump. Back off 20 paces and buried the arrow through the shoulder blade and deep into the stump behind it.
It doesn't take a lot of bow to kill stuff, unless you're trying to do it with really light arrows and expandable broadheads.
My first bow had 70# limbs and they were about maxed out. 68-72 #’s I reckon.
Current bow has 60# limbs. No reason other than that was what they had on the rack. It has an IBO about 20fps faster than my first bow did. Don’t know what the difference would be with equal weight arrows. Can’t imagine it would matter much at all.
About 48# at 26 1/2 in draw. 125 gr Zwickey 2 blade and Bois d'arc footed shafts, 510-515 gr total arrow weight.
I took the plunge several years ago and bought a carbon limb longbow, 2 carbon layers in the core and wood outer lams. for a nice look. The carbon in the limbs is a game changer for me. Easier draw and much smoother with good speed for the draw weight.. Doesn't fit in longbow trad class for 3d shoots but I don't shoot them so no big deal.
Bowtech Sniper, either 65# or 70#. The bow was a gift about 8 years ago and I never got around to asking what it’s max weight was, but the screws are tightened all the way down.
I also have a Martin Backwoods Hunter recurve that I believe is 48# @ 28”, I go to about 29”, but I still don’t trust myself to hunt with it yet.
I shot 70-72 pounds for about 40 years. Decided I ought to start acting my age and dropped to 63 pounds. I shoot much better at that weight and have no concerns about effectiveness.
I had a 62# Blackwidow MA2 for a good while (yrs ago). Borrowed a 72# Zipper for a day............that wore me out! Heaviest recurve I've owned..........was 65#.
Shot indoors with an 82# PSE twin cam. My 3D bow as well. It pegged 96# w limbs bottomed (Gorilla Squad).........and I couldn't draw it. My left elbow would bend before break over. I could shoot it at 92# but it was brutal. Tried 86# and it was too much. 82# was fine.
I draw smooth and pretty darn level no matter what #. My Oneida Strike Eagle (smooth rig) was 84#. Guy got one of the Hoyt Ram Bows when they came out (right ahead of movie).......and shimmed it to go 98#. I shot it for a day...........whew.
Archery shop had a Hoyt Pro Hunter on the wall.........30" draw, 100#. I could do it right or left handed.
All that crap was about 30 yrs ago. Older designs has a bit of give at the start, which IMHO helped.
Today's hot rods are brutal IMHO. My 2005 Hoyt Protec was 72# and smooth. And IBO spec was 305 FPS.
One can shoot 10# less draw weight and go faster now.....but man it hurts to shoot these new speedy rigs. Maybe with practice one could get used to the more harsh draw cycles. I'm too old and can't/won't.
Rather liked the Hoyt Cam and a half system. Release and 60-65# would be ideal.
Recurves now are 55# or less. But I don't snap shoot. 48# is pretty darn comfy.
Had a new PSE last yr, one cam, 60#...........it was super easy to draw but I still didn't like the single cam feel so dumped it at a fair loss. Like what ya like, make no apologies for it
My first bow had 70# limbs and they were about maxed out. 68-72 #’s I reckon.
Current bow has 60# limbs. No reason other than that was what they had on the rack. It has an IBO about 20fps faster than my first bow did. Don’t know what the difference would be with equal weight arrows. Can’t imagine it would matter much at all.
Just perusing this thread and saw my post.
About a week after I posted that I tore the fugg outta my left shoulder.
Was able to draw my bow for the first time a week or so ago. It was ugly. Lol. Didn’t realize how much your bracing arm and shoulder played a part in drawing a bow.
My No-Cam is 60. The crossbow, an Excalibur is 220. I used to shoot recurves from 45 to 85. I never could get good accuracy out of the 85, and it took a while to get worked up to it because the heaviest recurve I shot below it was 65 and the jump to 85 was hard to manage. When I look back on that time, I think I lucked out that I didn't hurt my shoulders doing that.
I do a push/pull thing, no straight arm. Don't point at the sky either. Could be a 45# indoor target bow..........or an 80# twin cam. Same movement. That kinda throws folks LOL.
Was 63# on my hoyt, just had the string replaced with a threadz and it jumped it up to 70. I'll probably back it off a little but man that string made a huge difference. Well worth the money.
Was 63# on my hoyt, just had the string replaced with a threadz and it jumped it up to 70. I'll probably back it off a little but man that string made a huge difference. Well worth the money.
Stuff stretches, coulda twisted up your old cables/string and gotten poundage/timing back to normal.
I am over 50 With a 30" DL & over the years my DW has varied between 60 lbs & 70 lbs for a compound bow. if I have been away from shooting for a while 60 lbs has seemed like a good starting place for me. How aggressive the cams are are a factor as well. Currently working with a CDT at 70lbs. Started this season after a laugh brake away with a mild 60 Lbs on an older Pro pro-tec & worked in to a 65 lb Carbon element & progressing further with the CDT up to 70 lbs.
I can be a speed freak though I don't need to be. When I am up to it I do like the speed.
PSE Dream Season DNA 28.5" draw 63lbs 388gr arrow, 303FPS. ive shot BIG (our bucks run 300 on the hoof) whitetails at all angles with rage hypodermics and have passed through, all of them, damn near cut the lower leg off of a hard quartering away shot at 38yards on my 2015 buck.
Decided to hunt with the 55# Blackwidow HS this season. Back is trashed so even the 48# hurts. Screw it, I like the 58" rig better. Figure 3 more weeks of practice.
I shoot traditional bows more than compounds with most of my longbows and recurves in the 50-55 lb range. I do have an Elite Synergy which is set at 64 lbs.
Nice, I took my longbow by the shop the other day and had the arrows cut for my bow, weighed it again on the bow press at 31"s of draw length, 61lbs on the nose, the Vintage 350 arrows from Black Eagle Archery flew 191 fps through the chrono, hope like hell I can get close to a deer this year.
191 fps is great performance from a longbow - what do those arrows weigh? That 31" draw length of yours is definitely giving you some extra fps. The 'home made' longbow I've shot the most in recent years is 56# at my 28" draw and shoots 500 grain arrows at 192 fps.
191 fps is great performance from a longbow - what do those arrows weigh? That 31" draw length of yours is definitely giving you some extra fps. The 'home made' longbow I've shot the most in recent years is 56# at my 28" draw and shoots 500 grain arrows at 192 fps.
10-4 JGray, I'll go out to the shop and weigh one of those longbow arrows, my cedar shaft arrows came in too, they're mounted up with the 175 gr ACE Express broadheads, holy DAMN! what an axe! I'll weigh and chrono one of those as well.
191 fps is great performance from a longbow - what do those arrows weigh? That 31" draw length of yours is definitely giving you some extra fps. The 'home made' longbow I've shot the most in recent years is 56# at my 28" draw and shoots 500 grain arrows at 192 fps.
10-4 JGray, I'll go out to the shop and weigh one of those longbow arrows, my cedar shaft arrows came in too, they're mounted up with the 175 gr ACE Express broadheads, holy DAMN! what an axe! I'll weigh and chrono one of those as well.
Well Crap JGray, it finally stopped raining, that's the good news, bad news is it seems my little rcbs powder measure scale got hit by lightning, I tried to weigh the store bought longbow arrows on my old rcbs 505 scale, I can tell you they're much heavier than 511 grains with the 160 gr STOS head.
My new cedar shafts are much heavier, I remember the sample arrows the builder sent to see which weight and spine flew the best from my bow, it is 697 grains and 90 spine, I guess that's what the bare shaft weighs, I chronoed one just a second ago with the 175 gr ACE Express heads, it flew 158 fps, if 697gr plus 175gr is the weight, I guess that'd be a pretty good penetrator at 158 fps?
The elusive holy grail of stick bow performance that folks focused on speed seem to chase is 200 fps. That by itself doesn't mean anything until you factor in the arrow weight in relationship to the bow's draw weight. Back in the day, Fred Bear recommended 9-10 grains of arrow weight per lb of draw weight for the best balance of trajectory and penetration. For example: 60 lb bow / 600 gr arrow, 50 lb bow / 500 gr arrow, etc. For comparing performance between different set-ups, that kind of constant relationship has to be maintained to get meaningful numbers. Most any bow can break 200 fps with a light enough arrow, but 200 fps with 10 gr of arrow weight per lb of draw weight is really something. 190-200 fps is not uncommon in the fastest traditional bows and 170-190 fps is more common.
You're well over 10 gr of arrow weight per lb of draw weight and I think +/- 160 fps is very respectable. Heavy arrows trump speed every time when it comes to penetration and there's not a deer on the planet that your set-up won't put down quickly and cleanly.
NICE, Thanks, I have found the bow with wood arrows to be much quieter and more forgiving, although a little slower, that may sound like smoke, but it sure seems that way to me, I can hit better with them.
The other factor here is longbows tend to be more efficient with heavier arrows. Often times when chasing speed with lighter arrows, noise and shootability issues tend to be more common in longbows. Hand shock, vibrations and excessive noise are often reduced by going to heavier arrows. Another thing I've noticed with wood vs. carbon vs. aluminum arrows is that recurves have enough mass in the riser that I can't tell much difference in arrow material. With the low mass in the longbow risers, it makes a very noticeable difference. I can't stand aluminum arrows in longbows - harsh shooting (noise and vibration). Carbon is much better in that regard, however good wood arrows properly matched to the bow are the nicest shooting bar none. Noticeably less noise and vibration - I've been making my own wood arrows for 40 years and have been shooting more carbons in recent years. I'm more consistent with carbon, but wood is more enjoyable to shoot.
10-4, Ive found a spot to stand in some very thick young pines at the end of a chip line trail, scrapes all down the chip line, I need any amount of North wind to stand in there, the buck will be 12 yards if he comes out and turns, I would dearly love to arrow a big buck with my longbow, with the wind whistling through the young pines, he'll never hear my longbow go off.
Maybe if/when I ever get close to you guys level f accuracy with my longbow i'll be able to shoot better with carbon, but, for me, now, wood is king, sure feels and sounds better, all arrows so far have been dead in the hand with this bow, never shot aluminum.
I just hope that 175 ACE will punch a big hole in that buck if he appears, I don't think i'll have any tracking difficulties.
So Mr. JGray, been out practicing my longbow from a covered back porch in the rain this morning, were you to take a shot at a big buck with your longbow at 8, 10, 12 to 15 yards would you hold on the brisket anticipating a duck?
I've been holding on the bottom of the broadhead target at the grass line and impacting 2 to 3 inches from the bottom, Thank You in advance.
Guy almost always beat me at a nearby 3D course. He was a stout fella and shot 65#, w tapered carbons that were LESS than 8gpp. His bow was loud. Chrono showed 235 FPS.
I tried his arrow in my 55# Widow and got 221.
Bout rattled my fillings out No thanks. I'll take a quiet comfy 190 FPS thanks. Even my 48# Widow that was to be for 3D and hunting, was set up for hunting first, and then was to be run on foam.
Skinny strings, diff fletch, no silencers................could squeak a few FPS more out of a bow. Not gonna do it.
So Mr. JGray, been out practicing my longbow from a covered back porch in the rain this morning, were you to take a shot at a big buck with your longbow at 8, 10, 12 to 15 yards would you hold on the brisket anticipating a duck?
I've been holding on the bottom of the broadhead target at the grass line and impacting 2 to 3 inches from the bottom, Thank You in advance.
Not sure I'd hold that low - if you do and he doesn't duck it seems you wouldn't have much margin for error. I was always told 1/3 from brisket to spine is ideal. Are you hunting from the ground or tree stand?
So Mr. JGray, been out practicing my longbow from a covered back porch in the rain this morning, were you to take a shot at a big buck with your longbow at 8, 10, 12 to 15 yards would you hold on the brisket anticipating a duck?
I've been holding on the bottom of the broadhead target at the grass line and impacting 2 to 3 inches from the bottom, Thank You in advance.
Not sure I'd hold that low - if you do and he doesn't duck it seems you wouldn't have much margin for error. I was always told 1/3 from brisket to spine is ideal. Are you hunting from the ground or tree stand?
10-4 and Thanks, I held one third up on the only thing I've ever shot with a longbow which was a doe at 8 or 9 yards, she had a stiff North wind in her ears, I didn't think she'd hear the bow and duck, she didn't.
All longbow hunting for me will be from the ground, I'm 6'2" and my bow is 66"s, I'd need a damn elevator platform in a tree to hunt that thing off the ground.
Mathews Drenalin, 28.5 inch draw, 70 lb limbs. turned it down until my shoulder didn't hurt anymore, I'm guessing around 60-63 lbs. Right now using an Easton ACC 3-60 arrow with a 100 grain Rocky Mountain Snyper.
I can draw it easily by just pulling straight back with very little movement. I see younger guys (and some older guys) pointing the bow up in the air and and pulling with all their might to just get it drawn, not sure how they hunt like that.
I haven't shot it through the chrono because I figured if I knew how slow it was I'd want to up my poundage. The farthest I shoot at whitetails in south Alabama is 20-25 yards. Don't need much for that.
I wasn't even close on my guesstimate of the draw weight on my bow. I was getting my son's bow ready for hunting and checking his draw weight and arrow speed and got curious about my bow.
My bow is pulling 55# and shooting my 401 grain ACC arrow with 100gr broadhead at 253 fps. The same weight is shooting my 506 grain Carbon Express with 125 gr broadhead at 229 fps.
My son's bow is pulling 38#'s and shooting a 421 grain arrow 180 fps.
Have a Hoyt Vector Turbo that is set at 80 pounds and 27.5 inch draw length, my first bow. Have not shot it since I got the Mathews Halon.
My Halon and Triax both are set at 61 pounds, 27 inch draw length, 26.5 inch arrows. Triax currently shoots Easton 6mm FMJ’s, 309 spine, 125 grain Exodus broadheads, 75 grain insert with total weight at 448.65 grains. Halon shoots a variety of standard diameter arrows, Gold Tip Hunters, Kinetic Kaos and Blood Sport Judgment with 125 grain
I much enjoy shooting the 60 pounders over the 70 and 80 pounders and the elk and deer still fall down dead.
Well since I got my latest recurve, I dropped #. Went from 55 to 54 LOL. But the new one is FF rated, the other was not (same brand, model and length).