I youtubed how to string a recurve with and without a stringer and couldnt get it done without another person sliding down the string. I have a martin saber 55 pounds and used the stringer that came with it. I want to be able to string or unstring it for putting on accessories and travel purposes. Thanks in advance

Put the string over the top of the bow. Slide that loop down the upper limb far enough to get the bottom loop into the groove. With the bottom loop in place with your right hand slide the top loop up until it pulls the string taut. With your right leg step through in the vicinity of the handle. Bring the instep of your left foot into the recurve section at the bottom. NOW, push back against the handle with your right leg and push forward on the top limb with your right hand just below the top end of the string. As the bow bends, slide the string up into the top limb groove. Even when I was a skinny kid I could string and unstring a HEAVY recurve doing this.

Personally I prefer a stringer with cups on both ends. Much easier to use.

Always use a stringer.

I shoot Blackwidows mostly. Those thin limbs and tips........stringer is the best way.

Other bows, depending on length, can do the lower tip in the arch of foot, push pull and string.

Still more of an eye danger risk.

Best to use a stringer (I had to add a knot to make even the stringer supplied by BW work correctly on my BW's).

Step through method does work. It also helps sell new recurve limbs/bows. Some folks go a lifetime using that method without issue. Others plod merrily along until they smoke a bow.

Step through method gains you leverage, which makes heavy bows easier to string.......but in that mechanical advantage you are more apt to screw up and wipe out the bow.

I am not strong and with a dual cup stringer can do 60+# recurves. The longer the bow, the tougher (you have to stretch more). Use your feet (both) spaced apart to lessen the amount of lift. I've even knotted a stringer to make it shorter.

Do think the single cup and rubber slider type stringers to be doable, but less leverage. They are harder to use, as the slider position is more picky (changes amount of effort considerably)..........but it does leave the upper limb tip fully exposed/visible so you know you did things right before you start to let down. That stringer, with a tip protector on the lower tip (maintaining string in grooves) is probably safer.

Dual cup, you just can't see some bows very well (BW esp).
Added knot made visibility better, but still kinda spooky.

Consequently, I rarely unstring a bow. But I shoot 'em now and then, so there's no need (cept changing string once a yr, and tuning). My HF1225 from last yr is still in tune......been strung since Dec.