I have an 7mm mag I am trying to load some ammo for. I will only be using cases that were fired from my gun. I have an RCBS full lenght size die. My question is can I use this die to neck size the brass only? If so how do I set it? Will neck sizing improve my accuracy?

Probably not but there are many who say, "Yes, just put a nickle - etc - between the sizer and shell holder", etc.

Consider that neck sizing means just that, exactly that and no more. Any die that contacts the case wall will change the case body and that will move the shoulder forward some amount..and that ain't neck sizing.

Cases with a lot of body taper; 22 Hornet, .30-30, .303, etc. can often be neck sized by backing the die out a little. But the straighter the case walls the less likely it is to work. And the actual dimensions of your chamber and die come into play; a smallish chamber and a largish die is most likely to work but the reverse isn't true.

Neck sizing is NOT likely to make a significant difference in your accuracy. It's only a tweak, not a quantum change so the results will be small if visible at all.

Neck sizing does have some helpful effects on case life IF it's done to best effect. Instead of cases dying from body splits they will die from neck splits! But two things can be done to increase neck life; neck annealing and correctly using either a bushing neck die OR the Lee Collet Neck die.

I prefer the Lee collet neck die because it works necks the absolute minimum and doesn't care about thickness variations. It works on a wholly different principal from all others, it isn't just a straight forward "push it in - pull it out" thing. Therefore, it requires a learning process but it's worth the effort. (Anyone who is a mechanical klutz or doesn't want to take the time to learn to use it correctly should stick to more conventional neck sizers.)

Are you presently setting your FL die to bump the shoulder only .002" or so? If not, then that's definitely something you should try.

How would I do that? Should I pull the handle all the way down and then screw the die in until it touches the case and then measure the case to see if it moves it .002"?

I'm at work so I can't type too much here.

Let me try to short cut things. How do you set up your die now?

I have had very good luck with the Lee Collet for my .30-06 and I am a mechanical klutz. I load cases ten times and then retire them. I have never had any chambering (or any other) problems within that framework. I appreciate not having to mess with lubing the cases (and cleaning the lube off). It also has freed me from trying to figure out exactly whatinhell "bumping" the shoulder is and how to go about only bumping it rather than going too light and just "tapping" it or getting heavy-handed and "bashing" it. If you do not want to spend money on a new die, there are those who worship the god "partial full-length sizing" and proclaim its superiority to neck-sizing.

I resized some once fired that I bought online. I set it up the way that RCBS said in the instructions. I lowered the press handle all the way down and screwed the die in until it touched. Then I screwed it in 1/4 turn more and then locked it in place and resised the brass. I have 120 rounds that were fired out of my gun, and I was wanting to try to bump it back .002" and see if it would increase accuracy or not.

Do you have one of the gadgets that you use with calipers to measure case head to shoulder length?

I have an RCBS presicion micrometer to measure the cases.

Deprime but don't resize a piece of your fired brass. Measure the head to shoulder distance. You may want to do this with several pieces of brass to see how consistent your number is.

Remove the expander ball assembly from the die. Put the die in the press and set it to touch the shell holder when the ram is up, the back the die out a half turn. Lube, size, wipe and measure a case. It probably won't be the right number. Turn the die in a small increment and lube, size, wipe and measure. Repeat until you have achieved the amount of bump you want. When the bump on that case reads right you aren't quite done. A case sized in one pass may not move as much as the one you just put through several die passes. So take another case and size/measure. If it's OK then you're done, otherwise you'll need to turn the die in a little more.

Reinstall the expander and you're off to the races.

Remember the threads on the die are 14 TPI. So a full turn of the die moves it 1/14 = .071". You can use fractions of this figure to determine how much you're moving the die. For example an eighth turn is 1/8 * 1/14 = .009". Note also that die movement doesn't necessarily correspond to brass movement because brass springs back somewhat.

There's definitely some cut and try involved, but really if I was there to show you we would have it up and running in less time than it took me to type this.

The way you have your die set up you are over working your brass which leads to short case life. Also the cartridge will be seating on the belt when the round is in battery which is not conductive to your best accuracy.
Without buying more gadgets, you might want to try this: Find a flat washer or a piece of flat stock about the thickness of a dime and make a hole in it big enough to fit around the threaded portion of your die. Put this around the die between the lock nut and the top of the press and resize your cases. You can tell by the resizing oil that is displaced that the shoulders are not touched. This is called "partial full length resizing". Using this method, your cartridges seat on the shoulders which means they are worked less when you resize. And your accuracy should be better. Over a period of time, your cases may become hard to chamber. Then remove the washer, full length resize the case, and start over. This is the method I have used for a lot of years and it works for me. If your accuracy increase is significant, you may decide to invest in a neck die but it is not the straight road to Jeruselum that folks would have you believe.

I neck size with a bushing die until the cases get tight to chamber then bump the shoulder back 1-2 thousants. Bumping the shoulder lets you chamber the case easier but I haven't seen it make any difference in accuracy. With belted mags you don't want to size the case to new dimentions after any firings. Measuring the shoulder is the way to be sure of your sizing procedure.Rick.

Would it be easier to just buy a neck sizer die? They are only 25 dollers from midway. Will I gain much accuracy from neck sizing verses full lenght sizing?

Again, I'll put forth the Lee Collet. You may or may not gain in accuracy, but you certainly gain in ease of resizing. As I said, within my self-imposed limit of 10 loads, I have never had a need to completely resize. Of course, this is just my experience.

To be clear, neck sizing and what I described are two different things. What I described is full length sizing, but "just enough" as opposed to producing "like new" case dimensions. It allows for smooth and easy chambering, consistent fit of the brass to the chamber from loading to loading, and doesn't excessively work the brass.

Neck sizing does not necessarily provide an accuracy increase. If you do want to neck size I'd recommend staying away from conventional neck dies. The Lee collet die and Redding bushing die are better ways to go.

1. Put the Shell Holder in the press and raise the ram.

2. Screw the Full Length(FL) Die into the press so it is about a "nickles thickness" above the Shell Holder.

3. Lube a "Fired" case (walls and inside the neck) and size it.

4. Remove the Lube and try closing the bolt on it in the chamber.

5. If the bolt closes with no resistance, screw the FL Die into the press about 1/8-1/4 turn and repeat steps 3 & 4.

6. As you feel the resistance begin, slow down how much you screw the FL Die into the press so you are at about 1/16 of a turn, or "Fine Tuning". At some point you will not be able to close the bolt and you are extremely close to having the FL Die in the proper position.

NOTE: The reason for this is because the FL Die has begun Resizing the Case-walls down to the Pressure Ring. As it does so, the Case-body lengthens slightly which in turn moves the Case-shoulder slightly forward. Then as the "Fine Tuning" continues the Case-shoulder makes contact with the FL Die and is moved slightly reward(or slightly shortens the Case-head to Case-shoulder dimension).

7. Stop when there is a slight bit of resistance when closing the bolt on the empty case. You now have a "slight crush fit" for the case in that specific chamber, or Zero Headspace.

8. Screw the die in just enough to eliminate the stiff bolt and "Crush" fit. That should be about .001-.002 shoulder bump.

Steve, don't you mean unscrew the die until resistance?

Similar to Steve's process, I would suggest you try PFLR or Partial Full Length Resizing.

Take your FL die, screw it in until it contacts the shell holder and unscrew the die one half turn. Lube a fired case, size it, clean the lube off, and chamber it in the rifle. If the bolt does not close or closes very stiff, turn the die in 1/16-1/8 of a turn and repeat the process until you have a snug bolt close. Not hard to close the bolt, but a alittle resistance.

That process will give you much longer case life than FLRing.

It's a very similar process to using a neck die as the brass will be more of a custom fit to your chamber. When I neck size brass, I eventually have to slightly bump the shoulder back with a Redding body die after a few firings, that is essentially PFLRing as well.

Good Luck

loder

No. The die is already set a nickles thickness high from the shell holder. It must be screwed in to come in contact with the shoulder.

Hmm, I must not be following your process. I feel we are talking the same thing(PFLR), just by a slightly different method.

My process is to start when the bolt will not close, and work until it will just close with slight resistance. It works like a champ and gives great case life.

Have a Good One,

loder

Simplify-Lee Collet Die is the answer-as many above are telling you.

Using a full length sizing die to neck size is counter productive as it OVER-WORKS the brass and has the potential to make non-concentric rounds. The expander ball in F/L sizing dies is capable of some horrible things that brass should not be exposed to. They can stretch necks. They can pull the neck off center if the rod that holds the ball is bent. They can trap dirt in the grease on top of the ball and put scratches inside the case neck. Too many reasons NOT to use expander balls. Many positive reasons to use Lee Collet Dies. I own one in every caliber I load for, and recently started buying the LEE Factory Crimp Dies as well. I think LEE has this stuff figured out.

What Reloader said about sizing cases to fit snug in the chamber is great advise as well that should be followed. Once you get a case to fit snugly in your chamber-use the Hornady Lock-N-Load comparator (or similar tool) to measure the case head to shoulder. Then record that measurement and use that as your target measurement (-.002" for springback) when bumping shoulders on brass FOR THAT CHAMBER in the future. Figuring out the measurements may take a little time, but once it's done, it's easy to re-size brass perfectly for your chamber and get the longest case life possible. Also, learn to anneal. The 7 Mag is not friendly to brass and will benefit from annealing.

An emphatic YES!

And a double emphatic recommendation for the Lee collet dies that others have mentioned.

I have spent several hundred dollars buying separate Redding neck dies, three die deluxe sets with a FL and neck die, then a bunch of Redding S neck dies with the bushings, and finally just bought Lee collet dies for all of my calibers.

Had I to do it all over again I'd start with the Lee collet dies in the first place.

I'd like it if Lee offered one and two thousanth undersize mandrels as standard items.

I just downsized my mandral tonight. I turned my palm sander upside down, chucked my 308 mandrel in a drill, and held it against the running palm sander. (I guess I'm a hillbilly blacksmith). It didnt' take much to buzz about .001 off the mandrel. Finished it off with some fine sandpaper and put it back into the die. Now I have .003" grip without having to push down nearly as hard on the press handle.
BUT....I agree that I wish they just sent the die through with a mandrel that would give .003 grip with a nice light stroke of the press handle.
I love the flexibility of the collet die with a redding body die. Use the collet till chambering resistance...then run the brass through the body die.
I also have one of the forster bump dies on order....that should be the cats ass if it ever comes.....been on back order with Graffs for about 6 mos'.

Kraky and Mathman, I agree!

Lee will make and undersized mandrel for you for a fee, but it would be very nice if they offered them as standard items or even sent them with the die!

Turning a mandrel works, but it would be much nicer if they were right to start with. Some of the Collet dies really take some force to give a descent grip. Doesn't bother me with the excellent low run-out loads they produce.

Have a Good One,

loder

After reading all of the posts here, you gentlemen are a little to 'scientific' for me....

I neck size all the time with Full length dies, especially if I don't happen to have a Lee collet die in that caliber..( because I don't load that caliber that often).

I just do the following:

1. extend the ram all the way up..
2. screw down the die until it makes contact
3. back it off one to 1.5 turns..
4. do a test size on a case with a bullet loaded with the bullet in place already, or dummy round..


Usually turning the die back one full turn is enough...if it has a long neck, then 1.5 turns..

I always lube the case necks, one of two ways, depending on my mood I guess...

1. spin the spindle out and give it a squirt of Amzoil spray lube, or Rem gun oil works also..
2. put some of a bore brush and lube the neck that way...

the cases get lubed on the outside, as I hate dealing with stuck cases, however old Lee Decapping Die spindles that had the pin broke off work well with a hammer to remove a stuck case...

if I am just neck sizing, I also run the decapping spindle and pin as high up in the case as it will go..

worked out this system after having to take out a lot of stuck cases...you use your head and figure out why the case stuck and what you can do to prevent it next time..

Errors are good teachers if one pays attention

I'm not following you on #4. Pushing a case with bullet in place into a sizing die will at minimum result in a crushed bullet.

Okay, let's talk about Lee Full Length Sizing Dies, and the reason you SHOULD NOT be using them for neck sizing.. Other dies may work like the Lee's do, but I'm not familiar with them, so my post is specifically talking about the Lee dies..

For a test, take your Lee F/L sizing die and put it in the press. Now remove the decapping pin entirely from the die. Now run a piece of brass through it.. When you pull that brass out, you'll see that the die has crushed the mouth of the brass down considerably. Were talking between .040" & .080" that the neck is crushed.

Now think about this.. Every time you run a piece of brass through that sizing die the neck is getting crushed down more than it ever needs to be.... Then the expander ball opens the brass back up as you extract the case from the die.. Once you see how much the brass is worked.. You'll not want to do that anymore.

For those of you guys buying body dies to bump the shoulders back. Here's a tip for you..

Take your Lee F/L sizing die remove the decapper pin and DISCARD it.. Yes, throw that pin in the garbage. Now, take a Dremmel tool with a metal grinding bit on the end, and open up the neck-sizing portion of the die. Be careful that you don't disturb metal in the critical shoulder to neck junction of your die. You don't need to worry about being neat.. Just open up the neck sizing area so that no portion of the neck is re-sized when the brass is pushed into the die.. Now, you have a body die that will push the shoulder back, and re-size the body when you need to. This along with your neck sizing die, are the ticket to LONG brass life..

Why destroy a perfectly good F/L sizing die? Well, using it this way insures that you don't over-work the neck of your brass when you only need to bump the shoulder back. On those rare occasions that I have to bump the shoulders back, I have measurements for each rifle, and know exactly how much to push each shoulder back without re-sizing it too much. If you really want to get technical, you can take the same sizing die, measure the area just above the case head on several fired cases from your specific chamber then using a brake hone, you can open up the inside of your new body/shoulder bumping converted F/L die and hone it out to be about .003" under the size of your fired cases. You have to account for spring back. Honing the die this way, you don't re-size the body of the cartridge smaller than necessary when you are only wanting to bump the shoulders.

It might be "too scientific" but for me re-loading is about trying to perfect each and every step in the process along the way. If I were in it just to make bullets I would probably get bored pretty quickly with it and would just buy factory rounds.

The OP was inquiring about neck-sizing, and one must assume that he was pursuing this endeavor for better accuracy, or extended brass life, or both. I think this post is loaded with great ideas to meet and exceed all of his goals..

And if the OP has not bought a Lee Collet die yet-someone should apply hands to his neck until he sees the light!

Wow....and I thought I was "over the top" grinding my mandrel with a palm sander and drill. I'm small [bleep].....but I do have a dremel......oh boy.
FWIW I also know of people that have made their own Magnum Collet die.....you know the dies that will actually size down to the belt on a mag case. I think to do this you have to take a mag die and cut the top off of it so you can get the shell far enough up so the sizer gets to the belt.
On the good side of die mods.....there is a guy that will take the redding body die and mate it on top with a redding bushing die...I hear that's the cats ass and really works...and some benchresters are using it.

I usually "partial" neck resize with the standard dies as previously described .
I prefer that method as it allows the case to headspace on the shoulder not the rim of a "magnum".

As the case shoulder moves foreward you will have to lower the die to find the sweet spot for ,comfortable chambering vs firm head space .
Let the shoulder tell you where to set the die.

Some folks reload to shoot; some folks shoot to reload. The idea of going through all that rigamaroll to reload a cartridge makes my head hurt. With the stated reason "to make my brass last a long time". Using the Partial Full Length Resizing Method, I've reloaded various calibre's brass until I was sick of looking at it.
I know this will bring gasp of constarnation but I also don't weigh cases, nor uniform flash holes, nor dick around deburring the insides of flash holes. I fully understand you may spend your time as you please but some folks time must be worth very little.

yeah evidently you are not following me..or I am not explaining it well enough...

You CANNOT neck size with your FL dies for this cartridge.

You will to some degree size the body of the case before you get much sizing of the neck.

As to your second question of improving accuracy, there has been a raging debate about neck sizing versus "partially full sizing", which is what you do by setting your FL die to just barely kiss the shoulder of case to enable it to chamber when the FL die constricts the case body as you try to "neck size".

Which method of sizing is better? In my case about 90% of my rifles respond best to simple neck sizing with a neck sizing die. One in particular doesn't shoot that way and I have to partially full size the brass leaving about .001" clearance at the shoulder for reasonable chambering.

For extreme accuracy most benchresters neck size only. That should tell you something.

Maybe someone who really runs the benchrest circuit can chime in here. Years ago benchresters did pretty much use neck dies. And I'm sure some still do. But now most of the articles I'm reading on new world records it seems the shooters are using custom dies that do slightly more than just neck sizing. I think most of the really good guys are using custom fitted FL dies that ever so slightly resize the brass for good chambering yet keep dimensions to the chamber really close for perfect alignment in the chamber.

I'm curious about eventually needing to full-length resize when using the Lee Collet die. As I have said, I retire cases after ten loadings and never have any trouble whatsoever chambering rounds. I would appreciate hearing from others who use the Lee die as to their experience. Thanks, John

John-to answer your question directly, I have yet to have to bump the shoulder back on any of my brass that I have been neck-sizing only. I have several cases in 7MM Mag that have been fired 7 times as per my notes, and still I'm only neck-sizing. I have 30-06 cases that have been re-loaded 15 times that still have never had to have the shoulders bumped back. I shoot the -06 more than most other calibers.

I have seen it written in many posts on this, and other, reloading forums that after a while bumping the shoulder will be necessary but I have yet to experience it personally. The only time I have to bump shoulders back is if I buy once-fired brass, or pick up fired brass from the range. I'll measure those cases from head to shoulder dimension and then if they are beyond specification for my chamber, I'll bump the shoulder back to work in my chamber.

I think it needs to be said that reloading has many different methods of accomplishment. It comes down to a personal level as to how you want to approach it. I can't think of any ways that I have heard of that are "wrong"-just different peoples ideas and how they like to do it.

Kraky-I too would like to hear about how the benchresters are doing it now.. I have read several articles that say that a lot of them have gone back to full length re-sizing between every firing. I can't imagine FLRS is the answer but if they are setting records doing it, it can't be wrong. I'll wait to see what the accepted norm is, and may adjust brass prep from there.

Bobski makes several good points........

Further, there is a huge relationship on the chamber size of a particular gun vs the size of the die used.

I've seen more than one case of a "large" chamber & a "small" die...........when this happens, depending of degree, even with partial resizing, the shoulder will be moved far enough forward that the case will not chamber unless the case is sized enough to move it back.

This with cases that will easily chamber after firing, but before partial resizing.

The best way to "partial" resize is to have dies made from a fired case for the correct fit, otherwise it's the the luck of the draw for the fit of chamber vs dies.

I use a neck sizer & body dies for the most part, but do partial resize when it works out for the particular gun & dies.

JMHO

MM

I have had several different 7mm RM rifles. The chambers on all varied quite a lot, almost to the point of the Browning I have now having a large enough chamber to nearly meet wildcat status.

You can (see bobski's post) only partial FL resize with a full length die. So the advice given in other posts to set your die so it sizes the case just enough to chamber are, in my view, correct.

If you have a large chamber (like my Browning) and only need (or want) to neck size, get a neck size die. But know that at some number of rounds down the line the FL die will have to be applied as the cases will eventually need it. As for which is best, partial FL or neck sizing, your rifle will tell you that. There may be some, or even no difference, one way or the other.

Of course you can neck size with a full length die, just as easily as you can with a set of neck dies..Unless you have custom neck sizing dies made from your fired cases its a waste of money to buy neck sizing dies..

Here is how to neck size in a FL die set:

Take a kitchen match and smoke the neck black, don't cook the case btw, just blacken it, some folks use a marker..

Then set you die up about 1/4 inch I suppose from the shell holder...The resize the case and you will see a line in the blackened neck as to where the sizer starts, keep turning the die down until the line is about half way down the neck..stop there and you have a neck sized case..be sure and check this in your chamber and if its too tight then you may have to continue down a bit until it chambers..This usually works pretty well but factory chambers can be pretty sloppy so you never know.

I have done a lot of experimenting with neck sizeing as opposed to full length resizing and I have not found one advantage to neck sizing a case other than on a 0 tolerance bench rest chamber, and never would I even consider neck sizing a hunting rifle cartridge..That is a disaster in the making and I have seen this happen a million times to hunters including myself early on...bullets stuck in the chamber, powder all over and in the magazine, a case that wouldn't feed into the chamber, missed opertunity at game..It will happen unless your so anal as to chamber every cartridge as you load it and even then I have seen them fail in the field.

I know this subject is open to arguement, so argue it out without me, I said my opine and my head is made up!

I feel like Ray....I don't hunt in sanitary enough conditions to trust ammo that doesn't chamber with ez. I want a bit of headspace to make up for whatever can fall into my gun during the course of a day. Come to wisconsin for deer season and make drives through brush and grass where you can't see 20' in front of you. Then we'll take your gun and blow it out with an air compressor at the end of the day onto a white sheet.....you'd be shocked what comes out of it.
I've also hunted out west in AK and I must be a pig with my guns cause no matter what bolts and ammo get "gritty"...and sometimes combined with rain, ice, snow "iffy" things start happening.
I just don't need the worry of starting with ammo that already doesn't want to go into the chamber. Like Ray I don't see an improvement in accruacy by chambering rounds with slight resistance...I get great accuracy from fl sized brass but I do watch to keep headspace to a minimum. (Usually .002 give or take smidge)
I realize there are sanitary ways to hunt and the gun will stay as clean as when it's at the shooting range but it doesn't seem to work for me.

Ray~
I'll take issue with you. On that same case also blacken the body below the shoulder. Actually Dychem works a bit better. You will see the sizing marks on the body at about the same time the neck is sized less than 1/8", not enough to either hold or keep the bullet straight.

If the taper of the body is enough, as in a 300 H&H, you might be able to get about half the neck, maybe a bit more, before the marks show up on the body indicating it too is being sized, but not on cases with gentle tapers.

I've done exactly what you suggest on the same 7 mag case, only in 338 Win Mag. The body taper is too straight and unless the chamber is really big you might not get enough sizing in the neck to hold the bullet well and straight. I couldn't do it in any of several custom chambers. Factory, "maybe" half the neck if you're "lucky" and have a great big chamber.

A mutual buddy you know on another board has argued with me for years on this subject as to accuracy. He's a proponent of the partial full sizing method for best consistent accuracy, just sizing enough to set the shoulder back .001" so that the cases will chamber but fit very snuggly and perfectly centered in the chamber. It accomplishes the same thing. It does work, I've just had better luck with neck sizing. If you size the neck very far in an FL die the body at the shoulder starts squeezing out long before you have much sizing of the neck. That's the only place the brass has to go as the sized neck pushes down and compresses the brass. Too bad we can't get old Hot Core over here and liven things up on this, one of his favorite subjects.

I'll be heading to "our" old stomping grounds shortly, much to my regret. Your name came up the other day a long way from here, and there, in connection with the death of our mutual friend, my cousin Fred. We all have the same opinion of that one.

Most of my hunting is off horseback with guns in saddle scabbards. All my hunting brass is neck sized. I've NEVER had a problem chambering and nothing gets much dirtier or dustier than on a saddle in Wyoming or Montana.

If it's just that you don't want to buy a neck die do the partial full sizing method. I haven't read the whole thread and possibly it's already been suggested, but here's the way to do it inexpensively without tools.

Back off your FL die about a half turn. That's about .075". Lube and size a fired case at that setting. Try to chamber it, it shouldn't chamber but if it does, back it off another quarter turn. Start turning the die in, in very small increments like about an eighth of turn or slightly less. That's sizing about .005" at a time. Try chambering the case and keep repeating the sizing process and screwing the die down slightly until the case chambers with a very slight crush fit. Set your lock ring right there. You might check a couple of more cases that haven't been repeatedly sized to make sure your adjustment is spot on. You now have what many people would call neck sized cases with only slight sizing of the body. That slight crush fit enables the case to lie concentrically in the chamber supposedly enhancing accuracy if all the other components of the action are "straight".

As noted earlier, many swear by this method for accuracy and it would be almost the same thing as a benchrester would do by matching their custom chambers and dies, if that's the way they are doing it today.

I use the partial sizing method for my .25-284 simply because I don't have a Lee Collet Die for it. I tend to use the Lee Collet Dies for sizing all of my other rifle rounds.
Regardless of which method, the sized cases need to tried in the rifle for ease of chambering before taken into the field. The loaded ammo also needs to be so tested. That way, it always works when needed. I find, for instance, after 4-5 loadings, my Rem .280 cases might need FL sizing. Especially if they have been loaded hot. But usually not.
When I partially size, I don't like very much "crush fit." Loads which are just barely easy to chamber seem to shoot just as well. I'll take reliabile, easily chambered ammo any day over something that might be slightly more accurate.
I'd also point out that Lee Collet Neck Sizing Dies aren't made like most neck sizing dies. The necks come out perfectly straight. No lube needed. But, again, sooner or later your cases may need FL sizing. E

For me the following are the definitions of the different sizing methods:

Partial Neck Sizing - Sizing only part of the neck and not sizing the case body or the shoulder. This can be done with a FL die set about 3/4 turn up from contact with the shell holder.

Neck Sizing - Sizing all the neck and not sizing the case body or the shoulder. Neck sizing dies only here.

Partial Full Length Resizing - Sizing all of the neck, sizing the case body and setting the shoulder so there is some contact at the chamber shoulder, which is around .001" push back on the case shoulder. Combination Neck Sizer/Body Die or a FL die.

Full Length Resizing - Sizing all of the neck, sizing the case body and setting the shoulder so there is no contact with the chamber shoulder if the case is seated against the bolt face. Combination Neck Sizer/Body Die or a FL die.

http://www.303british.com/id29.html
http://www.varmintal.net/arelo.htm#Neck
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/dieadjust/index.asp


So, my answer would be that you can Partial Neck Size with a Full Length die, often with good results. IMO a better option is the very inexpensive combo of Lee Collet Neck Sizer and Redding Body Die.

Agree, even as to the labels.