I want to mount a press, but am trying to find a piece of sheet metal to buffer between the press and mounting surface. I was thinking about an aluminum plate of some kind (about 1/2" thick or so). Where could I find something like that? I did find a place online, but they had all sorts of different types of aluminum and reading about their applications became confusing. Ideas?

Don't know what press you have in mind, but properly mounted on void free 3/4" plywood is all you need. All the metal plate is going to do is transfer the force to the wood underneath anyway.

I ran a press without anything but wood under it for a lot of years and just recently started using one with the RCBS plate that had been laying around for years. Can not tell much difference. YMMV

Edited to add:

It was attached to a lot more than 3/4" plywood.

I'd go to a machine/welding shop and tell them what you want and what it's for. I think they would fix you up, but you will need to take some measurements along with you.

Go to a metal recycling outfit or a iron works business--they usually have all kinds of steel plate laying around--you may find just the size needed. 3/16 thick is plenty.

If not the right size, do you have a sawzall? Metal blades and a sawzall will cut it down to size ( and I've done it with a hacksaw when I was younger and couldn't afford fancy tools... )


Casey

I use 1" fir plywood and 6" c-clamps

Unless you're reforming 50 BMG brass down to 22 Hornet, a solidly built wood bench is all you need.

RCBS sells such a plate for mounting their presses and that �" dimension is about the size of theirs. It's actually overkill. The suggestion for the plywood is good and all you really need. I used �" aluminum for my slip-in mount and found it to be overkill, �" MDF works just as well.

It slips in here:

I load standing, mostly. Prefer a bench top about elbow high for an easy work position. I also want to be able to fully depress the lever without bending over, my back appreciates that. And I like to have my press extend forward of the bench by about 3" to better position it for smooth handling of the cases.

All that was accomplished for my RC 2 with a scrap 12" length of 6"x2" channel steel. The channel is bolted to the bench top, the channel is drilled and tapped for 3/8" x 1" grade 8 bolts to hold the press.

Then I drilled and tapped the rear of the channel for my Redding powder measure stand, turned about half way to the left. That allows convienient access to the measure but it's off the bench front edge. A wall mounted shelf, about chin high, lets me place my beam scale just to the left of the measure and where it can easily be read.

With this tool placement, I can drop charges directly into cases or in the scale pan, weight/trickle, drop into cases and seat bullets without moving my position. I can load a couple of boxes as quickly as my buddy who has an automatic digital dumpster and do it at MUCH less cost than he. (I suspect most of those who find digitals "faster, easier to read", etc., are poorly arranging their tools and, from that, have bad work-flow patterns.)

I have my presses mounted on plywood boards, and then clamped to the top of the workbench for use. I store them in a corner of the shop when I want to use the work bench for other purposes. It's worked for me for many years.

My reloading press is an RCBS AmmoMaster. I have 2 benches exclusively for reloading that I got from Sam's. These have
1 1/2" laminated maple tops and all I did was drill 3 holes for the mounting bolts for the press then mounted it.
As suggested above, if your press will fit the RCBS mounting plate, think I'd go with that. Otherwise, go to a sheet metal jobber & have them cut something out to your dimensions. Shouldn't cost too much.
Bear in Fairbanks

I purchased a Craftsman power tool stand that measures 18"x24" on top and requires that the buyer mount their own platform whether it be wood or any other material. This will allow me to reload in the house and will store away easily in the garage. I found some 1/2 plywood that was already cut at 24" wide and had Home Depot cut it so I can stack it 3 sheets deep. Once bolted down, clearly, it will be enough! I recently purchased a Forster co-ax press for my first bench mounted press and am VERY excited about it. I have heard many good things and read many-a-positive review. I will continue to use my trusty ole Lee hand press for de-capping etc.

Thanks for all the advice and direction.

I built my 4'x4' reloading table almost 40 years ago. The table top is made of 2 x 8 pine, and the legs are 4x4 posts. It's very heavy which is a good thing when you are doing a lot of forming or forget to grease a case. About 15 yrs ago, the front 2 x 8 split since it gets most of the pressure from the press. I replaced it, then inleted the table top for a 14 x 14 x 1/2" steel plate. I drilled and tapped holes for all the different presses and accesories so they are easy to change out. Initally, I didn't get the plate attached to the table solidly enough and soon pulled the screws out. I added another 8 flush screws around the edges and glass bedded it into place. Hasn't moved since. My wife doesn't see it as an attractive piece of furniture, but I've had it a lot longer than I've had her.

www.alabamasteel.com/contact.html

I fashioned a piece of 1/2" x 4" flat bar 20" long to match the holes in my workbench leg. It sits on top of the workbench surface and extends 4" beyond the front edge.. The presses then mount to it with two 3/8" bolts. It works great with zero flex.

My table top is made of 2x8 pine bolted to the angle iron frame,with another 2x8 bolted under the presses,from front to back.Very sturdy,does not give or flex. Lightman