I've been using the electric RCBS charge master for about 5 years but I think mine is losing its accuracy. I calibrate it almost every time I use it with the weights but the last few trips to the range I've had some huge standard deviations. (Over 100 fps) I put a load weighing 78 gr on my acculab scale last night and it was .4 higher than what the RCBS said it was. I love the speed of the electric but need something with more precision. Ideas?

Redding.




Travis

Send your Charge Master in to RCBS. They will fix it up and have you throwing precise loads in no time.

Redding for a powder measure.

I said measure - but meant scale. I have the redding 3BR powder thrower. Maybe use that and the acculab scale in the meantime...will give RCBS a call.

My Chargemaster will get screwy if I forget and lay my phone near it. Just a thought.

I bought this one back when it was $400:

http://cambridgeenviro.com/productD...5-Year-Warranty-Top-Loading-Balance-5110


VERY pleased with it. I tend to go months without resetting the zero, and it will resolve a single extruded kernal reliably. I think it's about as cheap as you'll find a magnetic force restoration balance.

Redding.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/658771/redding-2-master-magnetic-powder-scale-505-grain-capacity



Travis

Harrell's,

I have a RCBS and an old Liman. The Harrell's gets used.

I have both the Redding and RCBS 10-10, can't go wrong with either.
If I were starting from scratch, would go with the Redding

That's badass - wish I'd have bought it when it was $400, but it's $525 Canadian which is like $475. Going to give it a whirl and use the chargemaster to get close and then trickle. Grabbed an omega trickler also that will throw one kernel of powder. Lot of money to spend to be minute of deer and elk...

I do it almost 180 degrees in the other direction. I use a powder measure to throw a grain or two short and then use the Chargemaster to top off the load to the desired weight. Very quick, but that method wouldn't be of help to you if your Chargemaster isn't holding its calibration correctly.

Are you guys shooting long range benchrest or F class?

I'm usually shooting at elk within 250 yards, with a flat shooting magnum. But being able to pick the hair I want to take out on the entry is of utmost importance to me.

Handloading is just one of those things where my personality becomes a disorder and I am always trying to put a little more effort into precision. It's primarily a confidence thing - even though every animal I've ever killed would probably have died just fine if my gun was 2 moa instead of 1/2 moa, it's one of those things that gives me enjoyment since I'm investing all of this time and money into it. I've still got a long way to go, I'm sure.

I've found there are several other ducks to get in a row before I need to worry about gnat's ass precision powder charges. Making sure I assemble straight cartridges is my main focus.

For example, a little while back I fired fifteen shots at 300 yards from one of my 308's. There were three five shot groups, one group each at three different types of targets I was evaluating. One group was .76 MOA, one was .57 MOA, and the other was .59 MOA. Overlaying the targets on my underlit map table and centering up the points of aim reveal all fifteen shots fit within the .76 MOA group. None of the charges of IMR4895 had been weighed, and the scope I used to shoot those groups tops out at an actual magnification of only 3.9x.

The load is well developed in the sense that small charge variations don't bother it, and the cartridges had very little runout.

I've had great results with a Dillon D Terminator scale
Dillon Scale


Also really like the JDS powder measure for stick powders
JDS measuer

You could buy both

Thrown charge update:

Yesterday I shot three, four shot groups with another one of my 308's. The loads used thrown charges of IMR4064, a Lincoln Log type powder. The scope was set to 6.5x.

The worst group was 1/2 MOA. Overlaying the three targets on my light table shows all twelve shots going into 5/8 MOA.

The load was an approximation of the MK 316 Mod 0 round that generated some internet chatter a while back.

I'm using a Redding BR30 measure. When I set it up I don't weigh individual charges. I weigh ten throws together, slide the decimal point over one place, and that's the charge I write down.

I have found over the years that the Redding BR-30 to be a great measure and very reliable. I currently have a Harrell's premium but would be more than happy with a BR-30. Just my experience.

Reno

RCBS or Ohaus 10-10.