I'm starting to load .223 in (fair) volume using Benchmark powder. It gets old weighing each charge so I'm looking for some direction in throwing instead of weighing.

What do you use and why?

Thanks,

P

I only throw charges, weighing every tenth or so. Still using my 35 year old RCBS Uniflow thrower with two "knocks" at each end of the throw.

I use a Redding BR-30, and I actuate it with a slow, high torque motion by grasping the arm on the side of the drum as well as the handle that sticks out. I don't tap at either end of the throw.

I use one of those bent metal powder baffles in the hopper.

I've found the "micrometer" style adjustment to be reliable and repeatable. Often I don't use a scale at all. When I get a new lot of powder I generate a calibration equation relating the scale on the dial to the powder at hand. When I want a new charge I plug it into the equation and back out the dial setting.

Benchmark meters extremely well.

Barrel or BR30

But learn the tricks to through consistently

Things like throwing 15 charges and them start loading, keeping the powder column the same height, making sure the tube for the powder is static free, and using the same conservative handle throw method....

Is there really a powder measure that will throw extruded powder as accurately as .1 of a grain?

My Uniflow won't. It will with ball powder

I've found Benchmark to meter quite well through my Uni-Flow. Probably not as well as H335 and other sphericals, but pretty consistent nonetheless. I have the aluminum baffle plate in mine, I think it helps.

Benchmark, H322, N133 and the like meter pretty well in my BR-30, which seems to do a bit better than my Uniflow.

I know you do long range match shooting, so a tenth grain might mean something there. But for an awful lot of applications even a couple of tenths don't amount to much. With my factory stock 40X in 308 I've punched a ten shot, half-moa group using thrown charges of IMR 3031, and those kernels are Lincoln Logs.

My 550b will throw 3031 within .2 grains (I always bump it twice). I was arguing with a friend about how accurate that thing was and he made me prove it with the largest kernel powder we had.

Here's a tip: Don't try to fine tune the setting on a powder measure by weighing one charge at a time. You'll just be chasing your tail.

For the charge weights I typically use, I throw ten charges and weigh them together. Sliding the decimal point over one place then tells me what charge weight I'll associate with that particular dial setting on the measure.

No, because they all throw by volume, and ball powder also meters better by volume.

Yep, that's what I do too. Throwing for the .223 rem is a no brainer. It would be a big waste of time to weight every charge for the .223 rem. My uniflo drops the charges for ball powder pretty consistently too. Good enough for varmint hunting loads:

10 shot group (of course)...

Exactly. I take advantage of the fact that I can use 1/4-grain increments also by using this method.

25.8 grains benchmark, 52 grain sierra gives 3400 out of a 24" tube. I weigh the first 3 then just start throwing. weigh at # 20 then just keep throwing. Then weigh #50 as I load in 50 lots.
Everyone that I weigh is within +- .1 as benchmark meters very well.
I don't use a uni flow for rifle powder, that's just used for pistol. For rifle I use a Hornady with a 1 lb. hopper that I have had for close to 30 years.

I used to do a lot of the above tricks until I started shooting in volume loading for IHMSA and High Power matches on a progressive loader. The only way .1gr is going to make a difference is in Benchrest as far as I could tell. The only powder I still weigh each charge is 4831. Other than that, just throw and go. Just be consistent.
If tapping, bumping and crossing your fingers makes you feel better, feel free.

I use a Redding BR30 and I don't weigh charges after I get it set. I also don't use powder that doesn't meter well. Too many good powders out there to deal with powder that doesn't meter smoothly.

This then add the posts about using a baffle and whatever method you use to throw the charge be consistent.

I use an old Belding&Mull measure, the same one for about 30 years now. It has a floating chamber which alleviates the need for baffles in the reservoir. Like the rest of y'all, I use the scale to set the measure, then just measure away. I honestly can't tell the difference in my hunting loads. The only time I weigh each charge is if I'm doing small batch trials of target/varmint loads when I can weigh 5 or so quicker than diddling with the measure.

For measuring charges for pistols and cat-sneeze loads in small rifles with flake powders, I use this measure, with interchangeable rotors, that I made myself.

Check out a Johnson Quick Measure. http://www.quick-measure.com/index.htm

It doesn't cut stick powder.

I am impressed. Well done.

My experience is the Redding BR-30 throws small-grained extruded powders to within .1 grain or very close to it, without resorting to "knocks."I did a bunch of experimenting with one a couple years ago, and it did that even with the largest-granuled powder tried, H4350. Some experimentation with the baffle usually helped.

I also recently was given an older Lyman measure with the Culver conversion, but haven't experimented with it.

The baffles mentioned are essential for consistency, and a practiced consistant technique will yield the most uniform results. It also pays to practice with your measure.Some powders respond well to a bump (or 2)at each end of the stroke, and some do better with no agitation on the load stroke, but always "bump" on the drop stroke. Using a Little Dandy pistol measure I can get 2 different weigts with the same rotor by altering technique. And with sphericals there is "0" variance. Stick powder in most of my measures does best with no agitation on the load stroke. Like so many things practice builds consistancy.

I have a Redding BR-30 which is ideal for charges around the volume of the 223 case. It is incredibly accurate. When I am up and going, I will weigh every 5th charge until I am certain that everything is kosher. Then it is every 10th. I also have an RCBS, which is fine for rougher work, or for smaller charges than run through the Redding. I use a baffle in the Redding BTW.

I wholeheartedly recommend the Redding to anyone looking to find a quality thrower. I have full confidence in it that the cases have the amount of powder they should have after I've gotten it running. The RCBS, I end up weighing more often than not, because charges can drift quite a bit. Have loaded many thousands of rounds with the Redding, and I am not the first owner. I'm not sure how many rounds my father loaded with it. Good product. Not cheap, but worth the price and then some.

How about the Redding 3BR? Any experience with these? Supposed to work from 5 to 100 grains.

If I am going to throw charges without weighing the only one I trust is my Harrell's ,if I use my uniflow every charge gets trickled and weighed

I use a Harrell's too. Best investment I have made in the measures department.

I really like the 3 BR, but it will get somewhat inconsistent at extremes, like the 5 grains and the 100.

For loads around or over 100gr. (416 Rigby), I throw two charges of half the load and get better weight and case inspection results.

I use the pistol chamber for stuff under ten grains.

What he said..

I've weighed many of the stick powders dropped through my Uni-flow and it's consistently at or under .1 gr, and I've been usin' it for decades.. I have a Lyman 1500 electronic scale and measure but haven't even tried it yet..

Some day - when I get time..

Christmas is coming, I'll start looking for a BR-30.

Thanks to all for the direction, I appreciate the help.



P

I agree that weighing every charge for a hunting load is probably a waste of time, but I'm weird and do it anyway with my Chargemaster. I have no trouble getting ball powders (Ramshot BG)or extruded powders to a .1 tolerance, which is where I call it good.