Never could figure out if you are going to dial a scope, why the Christmas tree reticle? I am looking at scoping my 260 rem for out to 600 yards deer hunting. In looking at scope options, seems like most that have decent reviews concerning tracking, the reticles are not at all simple. I like simple crosshairs, dial to where I want it, place crosshairs where the bullet is supposed to go, and squeeze . From what I have seen I may need to go Leupold with a cds.
(VX 3?)Budget is around 500. Is there one I am not seeing? Like the Athlon line but not seeing what I want.

Not much of a dialer, but it seems logical that on targets one could see the drop on impact, then dial the correction. I do use that method when sighting in, the famous one- or two-shot sight-in. Most seem to hold for wind.

Nothing to stop you from using the marks for a quick shot either just like a “ballistic plex”.

T-plex reticle with elevation knob from Tract.

What are you gonna do about wind?

What Pappy mentioned was the most useful thing about the xtree reticles that I've used. I can see it being very helpful if someone shoots in competitions.

For how I use one, with hunting being the end focus, I don't care much for the xtree reticles. The main reason for not liking them in my case is that I'll use the same scope in both wooded and open areas. The extra clutter made it a bit tougher to pick out openings between branches/limbs. It could be done but is much easier for me with a well defined crosshair. Windage or elevation marks on the main crosshairs don't bother me but the scattered dots below the crosshair did. I much prefer marked windage for holds on a scope I'm dialing for elevation. In open areas I was fine with the xtree but not in thicker cover.

Sightron S-TAC 3-16X42 Duplex

https://sightron.com/products/s-tac-3-16x42

I have this scope on my 6.5CM that’s used for hunting. It’s a near perfect match for everything I ask of the 6.5. I’d prefer the windage turret to be smaller, but it’s certainly not a deal breaker.

I dial. Primarily, makes the TRUST between you and the equipment happen.

Work my loads up at 300 to what the barrel likes, zero at 100, then start moving the bench to 200/300/400/500/600/700/800.

Moving and dialing also lets you know IF the scope is mounted correctly - should not be any left or right angling - straight up and straight down.

This ALSO gets YOU out shooting a little more. Not a lot, but, again, you will now trust the equipment.

Good post.

By doing this, you'll certainly know where the weak point is and you don't want those when you are out there making that 1 shot kill on a big game animal. Much better to have worked out the bugs at the range, than on a hunt. All that practice really makes you understand your equipment and your own abilities to use said equipment. I don't know exactly what the OP is looking for, when it comes to a "simple' reticle? Just a duplex type? Nothing on the horizontal wire? There are some very simple reticles out there, that are not too "busy". To me, this is a very simple, yet very useable reticle:


As is this windplex reticle:


I'm not a fan of christmas tree reticles, so I can understand where the OP is coming from in that regard.

I like a plain duplex reticule. Got a new Vortex with it recently and found out the adjustment dials can pretty much be worked as you want. Center of the dials is a screw. Take it out after sighting in. Lift off the dial and reset it at zero. never seen one like this before. Then don't do any hunting over 300 yds at big game animals but things like sage rats and small rocks way out are fair game. Just getting mine set where I want it, about 3" high at 100 yds and then will reset the dials. Then I have the scope sighted in where I want it and the ability to adjust upo and down and easily return to zero if I want. Don't have that right dial that adjust's paralex, doubt I'll miss it.

Both those reticles are simple to me, I could be happy with either. Looked through a friend's Vortex, and it actually made the woods seem darker because of all the markings on it. Seemed like was mentioned, low light woods situation is a bad place for that type reticle. Mine also will be pulling double duty, some woods hunting inside of 100, and some open fields out to 450+

I have both (well 3) different scopes with different reticle on my 3 rifles that get used the most.

I have a Leupold 2.5-8x36 on a Bergara 6.5 CM - This one has a simple cross hair that I zero at 200 yards (+2" @ 100yds, -8" @ 300yds) and the dial that can be used for longer shooting. I like this setup a lot for deer/elk hunting where quick shots are common at short ranges (50-300yds) and the longer shots usually have time to dial (if not just hold over - we did it for years before all this dialing crap came along). The lower power works great off hand and on less than perfect rests in the field. 8X is plenty for big game at reasonable distances (1/4 mile or so).

I have a Vortex Viper 2.5-10x44 on a Tikka 6.5CM - this is a very sharp scope and the hash marks for the BDC Reticle line up very closely to the ballistics of my 140gr load to 500yards. This reticle is quick to change ranges and get on target. It does need to be at max power for the reticle to line up with the drops so be carful to not get a scope of this type with too much power.

Third I have a Burris Signature HD 3-15x44 on a Tikka .223. This scope has Burris' version of the BDC reticle and again lines up very well with my load. This scope works great shooting rock chucks where shots can vary from 100-400yards in seconds. Just pick the right hash mark (or interpolate a little) and let it rip. This scope has too much power for a big game hunting rifle in my opinion. Again it has to be cranked to max power for the reticle to line up with the drops. I know you can figure drops out a different power settings but too much work for a quick shots. Just having an aiming point at 100, 200, 300 and 400 is quick and handy.

On a side note: I have tried 1st focal plane scopes also and think they would be awesome with a simple BDC reticle in a lower power scope but to my knowledge do not exist. Everything I have seen is high power and has a busy reticle. They have a place, but quick shots at game is not it. If you like to have your phone next to you to know the exact hold for the shot you are working out, they are awesome. But at low power the reticle looks like a mass of dots that is hard to focus on.

Below are simple FFP reticles that have worked well for me in hunting both open and wooded, near and far, in all light conditions. Measured windage holds while still clean enough not to clutter the view...elevation also but I usually dial there...still useful when sighting in or measuring a miss. Bold enough outer bars to draw the eye to the center and bracket in low light if needed. No xtree to complicate the view on a busy background.

S&B P3:


SWFA Milquad:


Tangent Theta LRH Mrad:

No "doughnuts or diamonds of death" for you?

The whole point to the Christmas Tree reticle is to make shots without dialing, or after dialing and missing for quicker follow-up shots. If you or your spotter can see the impact of a miss, you can quickly adjust POA to correct without dialing for elevation and windage. You don't need any fancy reticle if you can correctly dial in elevation and wind every time.

Once you treat them as a tape measure they become easier to use and understand. Doesn't matter if it's MIL or MOA just use what you like. The more refrence marks you can tolerate the better your corrections will be.

Nightforce SHV 3-10 works well for me. I zero +3 at 100, then dial beyond about 300, which isn't very often. Doug at CameraLand can get the price closer to your budget than you'd think.


Okie John

I use the 3-12 LRHS on my most used 223AI. Love it and should have put a pic of it with the others. I don't consider it a complicated reticle, but it's not as "simple" as the ones I posted pics of. It fits my requirement for a hunting reticle with wind holds that work well in busy/wooded areas as well as open areas. Thanks for bringing it up.

Well, there are other uses for reticle subtensions, but your point about using the reticle as an angular ruler is true of all of them.

Great scope, but I’ll never understand why people still do this! Old habits die hard I guess. You have a quality scope with repeatable adjustments/turrets, and you are zeroing into dead space with an inherent lack of precision! Are you exactly 3”? Or are you 2.75” or 3.25”? Shooting into dead space on the target you can’t really tell. Or do you proof that zero at 225 yards or whatever odd yardage that puts your zero? And shooting 10-20 shot zero groups to verify that 1” in any direction is still within that rifle and load’s natural cone? In which case you are now allowing for more error due to atmospheric influences at that extended zero range. And then what if you need to dial out to 400+? Your zero setting matters and being .1 mil or 1/2 moa off to that zero only means your shots are already off by that much before you even factor in human or environmental factors, which makes things worse. You are probably incorporating automatic error into your system! It’s crazy and unnecessary, all based on outdated thinking. You are only making things harder on yourself.

Zero into the bullseye! Dead center! Print holes right on it so you can be precise about it. Not printing onto dead space above the bullseye. 10 shots plus, to make it statistically significant. Then once confident in that zero, prior to hitting the field, remove cap, dial to your 3 moa (or whatever you please based on conditions). Screw cap back on. Go hunt. You’ve arrived at the same place, yet with far more precision.