I am in the processes of acquiring gear for an Elk hunt that I am planning for my Father and I next year (our first Elk hunt and first ever hunt "out west"). With Black Friday just around the corner I am making a list of things to watch for. I will list the optics related gear that we currently have and look forward to hearing suggestions on what you think we should take a look at. We are planning to get OTC CO Rifle tags. Probably planning to hunt around the Durango/Pagosa Springs area just for proximity to OK although I am not married to that idea.

Rifles being used:
Dad: Remington 700 chambered in .270
Me: Wby Vanguard S2 chambered in .308

Scopes:
Dad: Just has a cheap bushnell 3x9 scope on his.
Me: It is currently wearing a Sightron SII 4.5-14X42. I also own a Sightron S1 3x9. I could put the 3x9 on my rifle since the 308 is not as efficient at longer ranges and put the SII on dad's???
Wouldn't mind getting some "better glass" if there was great value to be had on Black Friday. Reading some of the other posts it looks like maybe I should take a close look at the SWFA SS 6X. The Sightrons are the best glass I have ever owned so I don't know if I am missing anything. If the Sightrons are close enough I would rather use these funds on not optic related gear that we need.

Binos:
Dad: Cheap Walmart variety
Me: I just purchased the Tract Toric 8x32's so we should be set there. Unless we both need a good set of Binos.

Spotting Scope: We have nothing and so if it is a must have I am in the market.

Rangfinder: This is also on the list. I currently have a Simmons but it is slow and only good out to about 300 yards or so and doesnt account for elevation. I am looking for an excuse to hand this down to my son and get either the Sig Kilo or the Vortex Ranger

Where are you hunting? The terrain and vegetation are a big part of what would describe the ultimate elk hunting scope. In some areas it's a jungle and a bright scope with great eye relief and eye box characteristics (for quick mounting) will be ideal. In other areas the ability to stretch a shot out a ways is at a premium.

Speaking for myself, and keeping from recommending the really spendy stuff, the best elk scope I've used is a 3-9x40 Conquest. Great eye relief, very bright, very visible reticle, and mechanically stable "enough" to dial up a long-ish shot by most standards. They can be had in the low $300's still (they have been supplanted by a new model).

But your notion of a 6x SS is not a bad one, I suspect.

Showing up in good shape, with broken-in boots, and with outerwear you trust, and with a good GPS with maps loaded into it (could be as simple as your iPhone with MotionX) will pay great dividends, as elk reward those who get after it and put their bodies into places that the meek fear to tread, and/or in weather that keeps the meek in camp.

If this is on a ranch then forget the latter. Ask them what to bring.

(Can't help saying it: If you've got money to spend put a 2.5-10x42 NF NXS on it, and spend the requisite time and rounds spent at the range to be proficient out to 500 yards or so, and be ready for any shot that presents itself. )

Upgrade your dads binos to Leupold Yosemites.

You'll be fine with the sightron scopes if they hold zero. I suspect you aren't going to be doing any dialing.

Invest in a midrange spotter and a rangefinder.

Taking everything at face value, it sounds like you are on a budget which is ok. If so I would suggest you completely forget about a spotting scope as you will not be counting the differences in inches of bone, get your choice of a good LRF, take your pop out and shoot a lot at various ranges using the scopes you have. Knowing your loads' trajectories out to three-four hundred yards is paramount. In your situation, if I was going to spring for something it would be another pair of the best bino's you can afford.

Aside from the private land in the that area, a lot of the public ground in the area you mention is high and rough so another priority would be good physical shape.

For starters.

Given what you have my first buy would be some good binos and a good rangefinder.
I would look at some 10X binos with at least mid level glass. Something like Nikon Monarchs on up. You don't need Euro glass but last time I hunted Colo (20 years ago) it was 4 point or better on bulls so you need something with good definition.
For a rangefinder ones with at least 800 yards and angle compensation would be a big plus.

New set of binos for dad would be my top priority for optic improvement in your case.

If you're on a real budget, give Dad your Sightron Si, buy him a 6x30 Yosemite bino (I have one and love it, even compared to more expensive binoculars) and forget the rangefinder. In a typical hunting situation, chances are you won't have time to put the rangefinder to good use.

As a bonus, I bought my Yosemites a couple of years ago on a Black Friday sale for around $60.

Set his scope on 6x and tell him to just leave it there. Sight it in at 6x (cheaper scopes sometimes shift zero when changing power), then at 100 yards check out the number of inches on your target between the crosshairs and the lower post of your plex reticle.

You can use this measurement to estimate yardage by comparing to the average distance of a bull elk from top of shoulder to bottom of chest behind the front leg: 22-24 inches for a young one, 28 inches for a really big one.

You can even use the top of the post as an aiming tool, but I doubt you'll need it. IMO most elk are taken within the point-blank range of a .270 (around 325 yards, depending on ammo choice and sight-in point).

Now go have fun!

SoonerWing,

You don't need new scopes. Switching sounds like a good idea. Forget the spotting scope. Both should have binos. If he's very old 7X35 might be better than 8X. Last year, when I was 71, I could use the 8X. This year I'm just enough shakier that I switch to 7X35. Much better. I used the wire on my fence 130 yards away for the subject. I would get the Sig!

another vote for the sig. I have their small one and it works great. my only complaint is, it is only 4x. the 6x makes a difference.
I like having a nice scope.
Id look on here in classifieds for a lightly used 2.5-10 monarch for your dads 270.. I like it better then my friends viper and maybe a touch better (my eyes) than a VX2. seems some guy cant sell them so maybe you can find a deal.
Spotting scope, only if you plan on serious scouting sessions or hunting big country/canyons.

At what range does the 308 lose efficiency compared to the 270?

In order of priority:

I'd put 6x36 Leupold's with dots on top of both rifles. Turrets are absolutely not needed for elk inside 500 yards, unless you just want a heavier, more complicated setup.

Get a rangefinder.

Get your dad a better set of binocs.

Finally:

You don't need a spotter for elk hunting.

True story. I went on a caribou hunt in Quebec in '95 and in camp was a Canadian gent who spent the $3K on the hunt and had a nice $1K Weatherby rifle topped with a - - - Bushnell sportview <$100 scope. While going on a rough trip up river, the rifle bouncing around in the boat caused a lens in the scope to become dislodged. My recommendation is to first put a good scope on Dad's rifle. It's what you're aiming with for goodness sake. Next, get Dad a nice set of binoculars and I agree that Nikon Monarchs are a good benchmark for quality vs price. Unless very long distances are involved and spot and stalk is what you are anticipating, I would pass on the spotting scope if you are all on a budget. I don't have enough info on the cover or shooting distances you can expect, but I would use the Sightrons if close shots are not expected. Myself, I like good quality 2-7 scopes for the vast majority of big game hunting situations.

Buy the best- Swarovski.
My friends brother was hunting in NM and the guide spotted a 6x6 in his bino's.
Charlie didn't see the elk in his scope.
Needless to say he didn't shoot at dusk.
The next year he had a "excellent scope".
Can't take a $400 scope on a $10,000 trip.

I also agree with you and Dre on the monarch rifle scope. However, I'd go with a 2.5-10x42 for ultimate versatility..

I am willing to bet a "C" note a Bushnell 4200 4-16X40 would be so close to the Swarovski you couldn't tell any difference in the field.

Forget the spotting scope and range finder.

Be able to hit at 400 yards consistently and you'll be good.

Invest in good bins and spend a little extra if you have to.
I prefer 10x.

Get rid of the cheap Bushnell scope.

Sorry, but I find these two statement to be a complete contradiction.

Almost no one I know can consistently judge range in field conditions (varying light and terrain) out to 400 yards. If someone will be shooting out to 400 yards (not 200) they should have a rangefinder and a way to compensate for range (dots or turrets). To me, a rangefinder is both a practical and an ethical purchase.

You don't have to be sorry Brad.

No contradiction at all, or maybe I was just lucky to kill 30 some elk without using one.

If I am dialing then yes bring the rangefinder, but other than that I leave it home.

I gotta' say... A rangefinder is an absolutely non-negotiable piece of gear for me.

Tanner

You can reliably calculate range on game animals, no matter the light or terrain, out to 400 yards?

You're more than lucky, you're superhuman...

Not owning a rangefinder in the Wide-Windy-West in this day and age of affordable models is akin to a handloader not owning a $100 chronograph. In other words, complete foolishness.

I would agree. Assuming the OP's scopes are holding zero and work adequately, a LRF and good bino's would be Priority One.

All those elk hunting years before rangefinders, how did we get along without them for so long?

One thing that helped a lot was going to flatter shooting 300 mags with a 300 yd zero. 3" high at 100 and 8" low at 400, what's the big deal about that?

Superhuman, I think not, very practical for anyone.

A 270/130 will do the same thing.

I've lived and hunted out west all my life.

If I am not dialing, I leave it at home. I use the duplex on my Leupold's.


Wide windy west? Not sure what the wind has to do with it?

SU-, no doubt you can get by without a LRF, or turrets, and I did for decades by knowing my cartridges capability to five hundred yards with a 200 yard zero. But with a whole passle of cartridges that puts you down 30-36" at five hundred; that's a lot of air! Still, doable with practice and on a big animal like an elk but very problematic on deer an smaller animals. You're right in that's where flatter cartridges helped a lot if you could shoot 'em.

You still need or should have that ballistic knowledge but, today, if you are a serious hunter, there's no good reason to do without a good LRF unless it's that or going without eating.

First of all, I don't think the OP has turrets to turn.
What good is an LRF if you don't plan on spinning?

Second, we are talking 400 yds, not 500 yds, that puts it into another realm.
AND, we are talking elk, not deer.

Third, I personally won't hunt elk without a turret if I know I will have the possibility of hunting in open country.

Fourth, It is the OP's first elk hunt and his equipment tells me he's not ready or practiced at longer shots past 400 yards.

Keep it simple, and buy the best bins you can afford.

Confirmation, if you know your cartridges trajectory. P&S.

What do you mean "what good is a LRF, without turrets"?

It does not matter whether you spin or not. You still need to know the range that you are shooting-unless everything is inside 200 yards.

I have turrets and bdcs, and regular scopes. I need to know the distance for them all.

Ha, baloney.

You guys make me laugh!

You make it much more complicated than what it is.

You remind me of a friend of mine. He can see in the dark and judge antlers of caribou with 7X35 binoculars at two miles. And he thinks everyone can. You're just humble and don't want to admit that you are better than most of us.

The OP is hunting elk for the first time in unfamiliar country. Spending $100 on a simple rangefinder that weighs less than 1/2 lb seems like a no brainer to me.

Lindbergh flew the Atlantic in a single engine aircraft from New York to Paris at 10,000' and took 33 hours... that doesn't mean it's smart to do that today... this just isn't that hard. To tell someone they need to practice out to 400 yards but simultaneously tell them they don't need a rangefinder is silly. JMO

A leupold 4x duplex subtends (from fat point to fat point) about 14-15" at 100 yards. (Largish) Elk body depth behind shoulder of 28-30" at 200 yards. Elk body depth again from cross to fat point at 400 yards.

With some slop in the body depth, your estimate might be off 50 yards either way out to 400 +/-. With a 200 yard zero (~18" low at 400) or 300 yard zero (~9" low at 400) and a beach ball kill zone, will the uncertainty cause a miss? Doubtful.

6x Leupold does about the same thing at 300 and 600 yards, and does average size deer at 200 and 400 yards.

What am I missing? Once you get out where a 50-yard error in range estimate means a sure miss, then you need a rangefinder.

Thank you all for your comments and opinions, please keep them coming. I am going to get a LRF because it will come in useful on this trip and I plan on this just being the first of many hunts out west. Mullies, Sheep, Goat, Antelope, etc are all on the agenda at some point. Plus I love to bow hunt and my current Simmons doesn't take angles into account.

I stopped on the side of the highway today and I was really pleased with the performance of my Tract Torics. I was glassing and ranging moo cows, assuming that they are in the ballpark of an elk and that was my only option. The furthest I was able to range a cow was 323 yards and it was hit and miss. When it did return a distance to took 6 or 7 seconds to do so. With the Torics I would imagine that I would be able to tell if a bull was legal or not at at least 3 or 4 times the distance of that cow. I was able to clearly see cows that were much further away but have no idea what their actual range was. .

And then you do some Kentucky hold over?

SU35,

How do you know how much?

Add: rangefinder to me implies that some sort of reticle movement or hashing is necessary. Out to where you finally need one because the reticle won't range, duplex is fine.

If you're actually gearing up for future hunts as well, then much of the advice here would probably change--in the direction of "buy once, cry once" in order to get top-notch equipment.

SU35,

What downside is there to carrying a rangefinder?

If I don't have a turret on a scope I see no reason to carry one and don't.

Simple dots are all that's needed, no downside, and no turrets needed to 500 yards (and more).

That's a lot of girations that take a fair bit of time. Range, pick a dot, kill. KISS.

I'd bring a rangefinder and a spotter. Some of the worst advice I ever got was "you don't need a spotter elk hunting". Missed out on some good viewing.

Depends "how" you're hunting and the type of elk hunting you're doing.

For a day hike hunt, the additional 5-8 lbs of a spotter and tripod isn't the end of the world. For a multi day backpack hunt, I can't fathom packing one unless you're a bit of a masochist...a spotter is not necessary to locate a bull. Bino's work fine for that, even at several miles.

Micro-managing horns on an expensive trophy hunt is an altogether different thing. Then a spotter can be useful... most on public ground are just after a legal bull, not splitting hairs over inches of antler.

By shooting the load at actual distance. With loads that drop 9-12 inches at 400 yards, and 25-30" at 500, figuring your hold on a bull that measures 30-32" hairline to hairline is not that hard.

Of course at 300 yards it's a chip shot.

Recommending gear to a beginner is a lot different than telling a guy with 30 + elk under his belt,what he "needs". The beginner does not know at all what he's doing so is unsure of what he needs. The guy with the 30 elk knows when he can make a shot and when he can't.

I agree with Brad and Bob and others here as they've the experience. Experience is the ultimate and best teacher.

I would say that to five hundred yards, a practiced shooter who is intimately familiar with his rifle and load, a quiet, calm broadside bull is not difficult to kill with a 4x, 6x, 2-7x, or a 3-9x scope with any generic duplex reticle and no turrets. But is he at five or is it really six hundred yards? Or, is that little canyon so deceiving that he's really closer at 400? That's the problem; I know I don't trust my range estimation in the mountains without LRF. A 18" drop at 400, a 30" drop at 500 are a lot less than a 50-60" drop at 600 yards. So, at this point in my hunting life I would feel downright naked without a LRF just because it is so useful. Never mind that we and you, SU-, killed a lot of game for years without them. They have literally changed the game.

IMO, from 450-500 yards and beyond the gremlins multiply exponentially and much more is demanded of your equipment and you.

To KIS for the OP, workable scopes with a lot of practice with the rifles the OP mentions, good bino's, and good LRF(s) should be more than adequate to begin with.

This!
Definitely upgrade your dads scope and sounds like maybe the rings since you've got it all off.
Look into the minox 16-30x 50 spoter. Small and clear and affordable. If you outgrow it you won't take a big hit if you sell it or if you end up not using it you won't mind the $200 sitting around vs $800+

If a guy is going to limit himself to 30X he could just get a Bushnell 6500 4 1/2-30X50. So far the only scope to beat mine on the optics chart 127 yards away is Nightforce. It is crystal clear from 4 1/2 through 30X. And it only weighs 22.2 ounces. You're going to have a scope on your rifle anyway. One of mine has dots the other has plex.

The extent of my big game hunting to date is sitting in a tree stand with a bow or in a ground blind with a rifle in fairly thick woods. The longest shot I would have ever had to date is ~150 yards down a pipeline so good quality optics have not been all that important to me to this point. However, I have always wanted to chase some big game that is not native to Oklahoma and I have always wanted to hunt the landscapes out west where quality optics can make the difference between success and failure. It appears that it will take me a bit to acquire the “quality” gear needed so after reading through this thread it seems that a better question would be advice on putting together an western hunting gear list by order of importance. Being that this is the optics sub-forum, maybe it makes sense to only tackle the optics gear list here taking into account the gear that I already own but feel free to expand that to cover all necessary gear if you feel so inclined. I believe that good hiking/hunting boots are going to come in near the top if not at the top of that list. Being a still hunter I don’t have layering gear like Sitka either. Man they are proud of that stuff. Is there a brand that offers the same quality but at a more friendly price?

I am definitely going to pull the trigger on either a Vortex Ranger 1500 or a Sig Kilo 2000. I am torn between which so we will see what kind of deals there are on Black Friday.

I don’t mind spending some coin on a nice scope in a lower magnification as that is something that I could use here in OK as well. I have my eye on something like a NightForce NXS 2.5 – 10 but need to do some more research there. Obviously I am a big “value” guy and with the amount of equipment that I need to acquire I want to make my dollar go as far as possible. However, I have 3 boys (12, 10, 7) and one of the legacies I want to leave behind is a really nice rifle/scope set up for each of them whenever our good Lord calls me home so I will be making a “Alpha” glass scope purchase at some point in the near future. If better scope comes in at the top of the list, now is as good of time as any. Also, based on the distances that I have been hunting in the past, I know nothing of twisting turrets and using holdovers. However, That is a skill that I want to learn and develop as I can only increase my odds. I also want to be able to pass that knowledge down to my children.

At the moment, I don’t have much/any need for a spotting scope here in OK so I have a hard time justifying a big spend on a spotting scope that I will only use on 1 hunt a year at best. That could always change but as it stands now, I think the spotting scope has moved down the priority list.

I did a fair amount of reading on the bins as again, I don’t have much use for really nice ones here in OK based on the current land that I hunt. However, I understand the value and versatility of good bins which is why I went with the Tract Torics. I believe that I found a pretty good value with the Torics but I won’t truly know until I put them to the test on a hunt. I am having a hard time getting dad to part with any of his $$ to acquire some good optics so it looks like that burden is going to fall on me.

With all of that said, this is how I see my current optics needs in order of importance. Feel free to disagree and/or make suggestions.


Necessary for this trip
1) LRF: Sig Kilo 2000 or Vortex Ranger 1500
2) Quality Scope: NightForce NXS 2.5–10 x 32 or other VERSITLE scope.

Future Purchase
3) Better Bins if the Tract Torics don’t cut it.
4) Spotting Scope:

If he's looking to buy a Nightforce, then he's clearly not constrained by budgetary concerns.

Were I him, I'd give my father my Sightron, get a good Leupold instead of the Nightforce, and use the remaining money to get the Sig Kilo and a couple pairs of Leupold Yosemites, like Calvin said. You'd prolly still have some coin left for a decent spotting scope, as well, if you wanted one.

I want to get the best value that I can but I can justify spending more on a scope at this moment. However, if all I am getting is an additional 5 or 10 minutes of shooting light through the NightForce over a similar sub 1K scope I would much rather go that route. Honestly I don't have a healthy understanding of the benefits of a NightForce NXS over say a Zeiss Conquest or Leupold VXR. If the differences are marginal I would rather apply the difference towards other gear. I don't want a NighForce just to be able to say that I own a NightForce... which is why I own 2 Sightrons. However, if there us a significant difference in the field it makes sense to go the buy once cry once route.

Not to derail the thread but my priorities would be Bino's and good boots. Loan your dad the Sightron and your good to go.

If I got new glass it would only be to get something lighter in weight so no big gain unless you go 6x for a couple ounce savings. My other priority would be to burn some vacation time and use it to scout the hunting unit you will be in.

This will give you time to assess your equipment too.

The best tool for finding Elk is a Fly Rod. While trying to land a trout I have seen some of the biggest bulls I have ever encountered.

Just re-read this. If you really plan on practicing long(er) ranges than the spotting scope just got bumped up in priority. It is invaluable at the range and the ability to see bullet holes out to your maximum range should be the deciding criteria.

Have hunted near Durango and Pagosa and horses would be on the priority list too. Especially if your Dad is getting up there in age.

Not derailing at all. This exactly the kind of stuff I am looking for. I don't want to spend money just for the sake of spending money. Any recommendations on boots? I have read good things about Kenetrek but man, they are pricey as well. Is there a way to do this economically where I won't regret it? I don't have to have "the best". I am okay with "good enough".

I would check out Sierra Trading Post sometimes they will have Lowas, Asolo or other top brands on clearance. I like the old school Alico boots and would recommend their middle weight model. Even the lighter weight boot would be good.
That and some Obenaufs boot dressing. Get them early so you can make sure they fit and it takes about 50 miles to break them in.

Wading through the myriad of possibilities is difficult. Myself I wear Lowas, three different pairs. Renagades for light and fast , Lowa Tibet GTX if in mountains with backpack, and Sheephunters mt snow. Buy the best you can, your no good without your feet. Make sure to break them in .

I will say one thing about spotting scopes. At 10,000 feet we spotted an elk about 2 miles off at maybe another 500 to 800 ft elevation. We had bull tags. My partner set up his spotting scope up and declared it a cow. I set mine up and found it was a bull. Busted my balls to close the distance and eventually it disapeared into the dark timber.
My point being good glass will have you working harder because you will find more animals . Binos are part of the good glass requirement.

I have an old pre gortex version of these and they have worked well. Sierra Trading Post had a fair selection. Lowa, Scarpa, Pivetta, Alico,and more.



Garmont Civetta Gore-Tex® Hiking Boots - Waterproof (For Men) in Olive - Closeouts

Not if you can do math.

I buy boots from Big 5 and Walmart. They last a few years. I break them in by wearing them around the house or going to town a lot before hunting season. Works like a champ. I get only water proof. If they are for late hunting I get the most thinsulate I can find.

About the alpha glass. You will occasionally see posts on the net that Swarovski binoculars are out standing but the scopes are not reliable. I had four Swarovskis scopes and don't have them anymore. Too sloppy in quality control and reliability.

BS. Good binos (nikon LX in this case) had a tough time assessing horn against the brown morning hillside ground foliage of your very own 9500' madison range hillsides, at about 3/4 mile. I was unable to lob a request that everyone move to the skyline, so the spotter proved very useful at 7 miles from the truck.

Spotter weight gets lost in a successful multi-trip packout.

From the top of the ridge (after I scared all the close subjects-of stalk away), with binos, seeing elk at miles away was certainly easy enough (looking north to open sunlit hillsides on the Sphinx 3+ miles away), but you sure as hell couldn't see horns. Big tan bodies yes.

Hang on a sec here...I think you might be misunderstanding something... don't buy a Nightforce because you are after the absolute best glass or absolute best LOW-light scope. That's not why they are so expensive. The glass in current NXS's is certainly very good but that's not why you buy one. You buy one because you intend to dial the turrets for long-range shooting. At THAT, they are absolutely top tier.

I don't know anything about your Sightron scopes as far as how good they are or are not. However, there are numerous solid upgrade paths that don't require NXS money.

Also... in my experience low-light performance is down the list a ways for an elk hunting scope. At least how and where I hunt them, you almost never see them at dawn, and while they might or might not be active at dusk, the logistical realities for most elk hunters are that they are at a minimum "hunting back towards the rig" as dusk comes on, not sitting on a stand until the bitter end like with some kinds of deer hunting. I have, a number of times, sat until dark watching what I thought was a good spot, and NEVER seen elk in those circumstances. Then you've got a miles-long walk in the dark to deal with. Most guys won't do that. In fact I've stopped doing it; it's just not productive and freaks my camp-mates out when I roll back into camp hours after dark <grin>....

You want a solid, simple scope with some kind of unobtrusive "dots" that allow you to connect out to say 500 yards. Don't need a Nightforce.

Now that being said, the two rifles I hunted elk with the most this year wore Nightforce scopes... they are awesome at what they do...

No luck with bargain boots, but thats just me. Remember once I had bought some boots broke them on walks around the hood and light hikes. The drainage I went down was so steep that my feet kept sliding forward and by the end of the day the toe had completly given out. And I still had to get back to camp. Lucky for me I always take another pair along if possible. Not a back pack hunt obviously. YMMV

I agree Quality work boots are plenty good but don't trust off brands. All it takes is having to hike down a steep and loose ridge in the dark with your boot sole flapping to convince you not to get a questionable boot again. Have had to resort to duct tape or wearing the back up pac boots to finish a hunt before.
One trip the back up pac boots gave out too, ozone had gotten to them since I so rarely hunt in snow anymore.

In my opinion, if you are going to be a serious big game hunter you need a decent spotter and a decent rangefinder. That's why I initially said "invest". Buy once, cry once. If you don't need it, you eventually will. Get used to carrying the extra weight.

My last elk trip was 40+ miles, starting from the boat (sea level), up to over 3k feet, and every place in between. In what has been called the toughest elk hunt in NA by the RMEF according to some friends. 7 days, 60lbs on my back. Hope to do it again next year.

My biggest regret was not bringing my spotter. Weight be damned.

[quote=Vek]Not if you can do math./quote]

Your method is one I used for a couple decades. It sounds good in theory but in practice, under field conditions and lighting at range, it's not very fast or effective. Too many variables.

Much simpler to laser, dial or pick a dot, and shoot.

BTDT.

Update after doing a little shopping the last couple of weeks and on Black Friday

Scope Update:
Dad: Putting the Sightron SII 4.5-14X42 on his 270
Me: Got a great deal on an open but never mounted Bushnell Elite LRHS 3-12X44 here on the fire

Spotting Scope Update:
Picked up a used Leupold GR12-40X60 here on the fire

Rangefinder Update:
Picked up a Sig Kilo 2000 on a decent Black Friday deal

Gear: utilized the Kuiu 30% off to pick up a fair amount of layering gear. Also picked up some First Lite base layers with their Black Friday deal. All my current gear is cotton or polyester.

Next up:
Boots
Day pack

THIS IS SOME EXPENSIVE $#!* but I'm hoping I don't have to make many of these purchases again for a very long while.

Do you wake up in the morning and just think I'm not sure if I gave any [bleep] advice yesterday, better double down today.

By the best boots that fit you well. They will not say Danner on the side of them, they will be waterproof, and have a lot of support.

Cabelas Mendls, Lowas, Scarpas, Kannetraks, Asolos, and Crispis are all good boots for mountain hunting..

Yes you can.

Try to find a deal on better binos for your Dad.

Get a pair of 6x30 leupold yosemite and loan them to your dad. They won't play second fiddle to much that's under $300 or more.

Boots: I've played the heavy norwegian welt game and the lightweight scarpa charmoz and la sportiva evo game - elk to me means wet or snow, so leather all the way. Don't get oversold on a rubber rand - they are good at separating from leather and getting slit by rocks. Roughout leather treated with pure beeswax won't get cut by rock. If you anticipate any quantity of snow, get gaiters. This year I used the midweight Alicos with hairdryer-applied beeswax and they worked well.

Don't go out of your way to make your rifle and kit heavy. So far with your scope choice you've probably given up half a pound to a leupold 4x. Same with the straight spotter - if you had angled you could get away with a shorter, lighter tripod.

I could buy whatever I want for a pack. I went on this year's elk hunt with a ~20 year old Dana Designs "Alpine", purchased on craigslist for $50. You can buy lighter, but few will carry weight as well as this 6.5lb Dana. If you want a true "daypack", then there are lower capacity options with good suspensions for packing meat, but $$$$.

I have hunted and guided with boots that have Rands for the last 10 years, I get on average about 3-5 years a set of boots. By the time the ran gives up the ghost, the boots are already broke down. I won't buy a set of boots without it now. The non rand boots have a connection point from the boot to the sole that is one of the first places to fail imho on many boots.

Norwegian welt doesn't fail at the sole.

A couple observations I've made over the years: All those 400 yards shots without rangefinders have become more like 250 just like an actual scale has turned all those 250+lb deer into 175lb deer.

Can't think of any reason not to have a rangefinder.

Sooner- What do you mean by "day pack"? Reason I ask is I'm of the opinion, because I'm lazy, that my "day pack" is the same one I pack out critters with. I don't want to have to make an extra trip back to camp/truck just for a pack. Lots of good suggestions in the Backpack Forum on packs, but if I were in the market I'd be looking at pack from the following companies: Kifaru, Stone Glacier, Seeksoutside, and Mystery Ranch.

For me my spending priorities are boots, bino's, backpack and in that order.

Exon, stone glacier, and kifaru should all be on your list then.

My current elk rifle has a 3.5-10x44 Conquest (9.3x74R). My other elk rifle has a 3-15x42 HD5 Zeiss. Both scopes work great for nearly any elk hunting in the Rockies!

I like the Leupold TBR range finders and the Leupold CDS scopes. They work!

For a first-time elk hunter from flat land, it's downright laughable to suggest there is no need for a rangefinder.

Been off the site for a few weeks, but I have been that first time CO elk hunter and I think your original post is pointing in all the right directions.
I'd leave your Sightron on your rifle and add the other to your Dad's. You'll know a whole lot more after you've been there, but I like your setup on your .308 and the 3-9 S1 will be great on your dad's .270. I have a 6x SWFA and unless you'll be dialing I wouldn't until after you hunt there once.
6x Yosemites are a great value, light and easy to carry for your dad. Lots of choices with binoculars. Don't need to go crazy to get a good deal.
I had some decent but inadequate Tasco 10x50's my first time to CO and no rangefinder. I upgraded my bino's immediately and got a rangefinder. My current rangefinder is a Bushnell Elite ARC 1500 I got off ebay for less than $200 as an open box deal. I do think the Sig at $400 is the deal of the year.
No need for a spotting scope most of the time. That said, I like glassing and have carried a Bushnell Elite 15-40x60 and a Leupold 20x60 of similar small size because they actually are small enough to carry and have decent optics.
Have a great time! Part of the fun is in the planning. You really can make a great plan from topo maps and asking questions.

Look for used Swarovski or similar on this site and Blaserbuds.
There is a Kahles 4-12x50 and the seller is a reputable guy, I spoke to him several times.
Also a Swarovski Z 3 may work, ask the guys that hunted where you are considering.

Sounds like you are close to ready. Those rifle scopes and your range finder will be fine as long as you want. I agree that a rangefinder is a necessity if you are planning to shoot beyond 250 yards or across canyons at all. You have started off with some high end clothing that is nice to have but way lower on the priority list than good boots an accurate rifle and great binoculars.

I'm partial to the Eberlestock x2 as a daypack that can haul a first load of meat out. This year I switched to a Wilderness Specialties frame and Bighorn bag and it worked fine as a hunting pack and was terrific as a meat hauler the 100lbs+ didn't feel bad but 2.5 miles later I was happy to put it down. Elk hunting tests your gear, budget, and planning as you try and improve every year.

Get your dad some new binos and you will be good from an optics perspective.

Great post. I still use my Dana Arcflex Alpine! Great pack.

Nicely done. I was going to recommend that exact scope or else a SS 6x or 3-9x, but the LRHS is a magnificent scope for the price. It combines NF-esque reliability with great glass, excellent reticle, and favourable ergos and features. I was also going to recommend that RF, and hopefully you got an upper-end specimen of the Sig. If you did, you'll be VERY happy with its performance. If not, you'll likely need to send it in and get it replaced with another unit before you get the amazing performance they're capable of. Your spotter and Kuiu clothing are also great choices. You did very well.

As to the boots- my suggestion is to go to a high-end boot store (not sure what stores you have down there) and try on a few of the Lowa, Hanwag, Crispi, etc, models and see what fits your foot best. The perfect fit makes all the difference when choosing between these top-quality brands and models of boots. Even the most expensive boot won't work well for you if the fit is a little off.

I'd try on a Kifaru and a Seek Outside Unaweep or Revolution. If the lumbar pad type of pack is better for your body type, then you have a few great options (eg. Kifaru, MR, etc). If you're like me and a few of my hunting buds, the full-wrap belt hugs the waist better, fits perfectly, and doesn't slip even under heavy loads. In that case, the SO options is top shelf as a multi-day pack that will carry weight very well and last for years of use, but will also compress small enough to be a very comfortable day pack. I've got the older Evolution, and it serves double duty fantastically in both 7-10 day sheep hunt mode, as well as day pack mode.

Meopta 3.5 X 10 for $350.00 while they last
or
Zeiss Terra 4 X 12 $290.00 lower end Zeiss but still quality scope

And always remember the #1 equipment on any hunt--just get out in the woods. You can easily kill an elk with inferior equipment if you're in the right spot at the right time. You will never kill an elk with the best equipment if you're not out there.

All that to say--if you can't afford the equipment, go anyway.