The thought of that tall windage dial got you down? Tired of it poking you in the wrist?

Minus 1/2" in height. Sorry, no weights.

That would sure help it fit in a saddle scabbard easier. Where did you source the windage knob cover?

7/8" Do-It-Best Hardware rubber leg tip, shaped down. Has a good matte look.

1" fit ok but looser on the "shaft" when the thin 'band' with the markings on it was intact. The 'band' spun right off. This is very snug. Original o-ring seems fine and sorta fills the gap between the rubber and the 'housing'. Took a couple shots to get the length desired.

A 7/8" vinyl leg tip may work without sanding, just trim it, however, it would protrude about 1/8" more due to the domed shape that can not be sanded flat like the rubber. I dug around a fairly well stocked hardware store and that's what I could find. I would have black-tapped the bugger if I had too. I wanted it gone and well, it's gone.


7/8" Rubber leg tip

Like this:
Cut tube. Cut brass post. File slot. Clean up. Sight in. Cap it.

Slicker than owl shat thanks a ton I wonder if the outer aluminum could be threaded for another brand of turret cover. On edit I wonder if you could shave down the stem then shave bottom of the turret cap and then end up,with a low profile elevation knob, still using all original parts

Yah, there's other ways to trim it. I was going for 1/2" drop and nailed it. I think you could drop 1/4" and still use the dial, sans the small o-ring.

Been thinking about this awhile and finally got the nerve up tonight. The material cuts easy with a 1 1/2" Dremel EzLock Thin cutoff wheel. There's a couple ridges the larger o-ring sits in. Just use the inner one as a guide; take it off. Nothing heated up noticeably. They could just thread a cap on there like a LRHS and have something.

Thinking of weatherproofing, this went together just fine. Originally, there's the o-ring that the dial spins around freely. This has at least thee ridges internally, and is snug as hell...

If nothing else I love the fact you not going to accidentally turn that dial anymore and with the zero stop kit out there you can always verify your in the right spot with the elevation turret.

Mtn Boomer. Thanks for the write up, interesting modification.

That's great.

Boomer has the biggest, balls of them all...

Did have a hell of a time zipping up this morning. LOL

I took off the turret to my fixed 20x SS scope it looks like to me there is the outer aluminum stem which has the revolution markings on it, then it has a brass insert in that goes inside of it. this has a bunch of ridges on it that must be what maintains the click action of the turret. the only problem that I can see with what you did is if you had to adjust bullet impact to zero a gun far to the right you might turn the turret outside of whatever is interfacing with those ridges on the stem. it looks like you actually removed the whole thing that holds the large o ring.

I really want to do this!!! but I admit I am chicken about doing it. for me I care less about being low profile and more about the knob not turning in inadvertently. low profile and not being able to turn it by accident are really nice things together.

Chopped second one. Pictures. I did not include the guts pics before... I am not advocating anyone do this, just that 'd prefer a low, capped windage dial on my SWFAs... Probably a good idea to center/sight in before. Did not on the first. No worries, it just threaded inward a bit further to come to center, however going the other way would not be best resulting in the brass disc sticking outside the protection of the 'splined turret house tube'.... The splines visible do indeed hold some stuff internally, I suppose, but, they do not turn when you spin the brass. That 'splined turret housing tube' is threaded into the scope body, righty tighty. I am no opticaloligist but certain you don't want to unscrew that. The thin sleeve that has the markings on it is just glued on the shaft, like with a drop of super glue. #2 took a little effort to loosen up but came right off, put the twist to it clockwise... The 7/8" cap fit is too tight with the sleeve intact but other capping solutions may work, to leave the sleeve on for whatever reason desired. I'd think, on the sleeve with the elevation marking, a guy wanting permanence may desire to glue it a bit more.
1

2

3

4 Yes, CC I cut that chit off. LOL

5 Rather than use the thread file on this one I just cut the slot with the cut-off wheel. The cuts could be done neater. LOL

6 Don't turn the stuff left. Turn right. I felt this one move sligtly, tightening upon applying a bit o' force.

1 I like it. YMMV.

2 I think I ditched 9/16", maybe close to 5/8" on this one.

3

4 Shows how much the rubber got trimmed. I did try a vinyl cap again and it really doesn't fit as well as the rubber...

5

Good to have a right arrow...

why are you also removing the outer piece with the markings on it. couldn't you just grind that down too and leave it on there? its the part pictured with the pliers on it.

did you get what I was saying that if you had to adjust right quite a bit that you could turn whatever makes the clicking out of the splined part? I don't think the clicker is right at the top of it but it would be interesting to know how much there was to work with before you would damage something by turning it too far to the right/out

this is a great idea though.

The outer sleeve with the markings on it is the same length as the tube it's on that I cut. It runs to the inner o-ring lip... If you leave those lips, it'd never slide off... It does not need cut per se. But it is only secured by a drop of glue, and may get loose on you. Then your rubber cap, which is snug fit to it, would just slide off with the sleeve inside it, if the o-ring lips are gone, or spin around freely if intact.... Additionally the goods I am using to cap it don't fit well with the sleeve on. And would not work with the o-ring lips itact. Maybe there's better ways, such as SWFA engineering it. LOL If you like the sleeve, you could glue it on better, so it stays, then cap it with something that'll fit over it snug, or whatever.... Trying to grind the o-ring lips off, to leave the shaft longer etc would be a biotch. Figuring a cap that leaves the large o-ring groove intact is likely a better all-around, yet 1/8"+ taller solution.

Yah, wacking the splined tube off too short is most certainly not a good idea. LOL

I have not spun the brass way out to see what will happen as I have no need to go way left of center. Maybe you could twist yours way out (turn clockwise) and see if the brass doodad, that has the two small divots, is thin, thick or what? Or if you can tell what goods are secured by the splines. Dammed if I know. It'll just spin out and stop just like it does turning the dial unmodified... Maybe spinning out a bit extra first or not doing it at all is wayyy better.

I would not do this on a scope just used at a bench. Again, not suggesting anyone do this. I like the handling much better.

ok I am understanding now, I think you should be the one that checks how far you can spin out the turret maybe if you need to go out too far perhaps something is out of wack with the rings or something.

SWFA could come up with a much better looking and lower profile turrets than they currently use, as has been said even a capped windage would be sweet!

Exactly. Use it one time then it's there, sticking out, not 1/2", or even 3/4", heck 1" would be extremely lame but these darn things are 1 1/2". Love the price. LOL

Don't like the windage turret but you can sure rock the "gold" rings.......

Well, they had to match his gold trigger...

They're medium champagne - to compliment my high dollar shoot'n iron.

tag incase my balls get bigger

Good information

Hey Boomer, the purple battery cover still looks great on that SWFA 1-4 I got from you.

This post and the pics of your champagne rings gave me an idea.
Would you be interested in doing that champagne theme on the metalwork of my 7-08 Montana?
As for the stock?
Do you have a chinchilla camo pattern? 'cause it'd look bitchin' with the champagne metal.

I have a bunch of that Barney stuff left over!

Maybe a Burnt Bronze Montana in a multi-tone mottled gray/charcoal/black fuzzywuzzy stock?

BTT

LOL, Good chit man!

Not for nothing, but that’s got to be hell on the scope’s warranty.

Oh snap!

Thanks, I was wondering what happened to the pictures

Nothing like living dangerously

Tag

Tag

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dremel-EZ-Lock-11-Piece-Set-1-1-2-in-Multipurpose-Accessory-Kit/3085917

It ain’t a Leupy, it doesn’t have to go in for yearly servicing

Right!

Ok, they're still big....



Up for a guy looking.

Are the pictures gone? I can't see them. Not sure if the system, or my computer

Many got wankered. I will need to un F' them. Have heard a similar mod has been done by others. I have a 12X that I figure I may as well chop. Soon. More ideas than time.

Up. 12X this time. Takes like 5 minutes.

Sticks out a bunch ehh?



Put the chop to it just inside of the inner rim of the groove the O-ring sets in. Zing.




Slide off the thin band with the numbering for revolutions on it. Optional I suppose. This one was fairly secure, others have been loose.

Chop the brass post. This time I left it about 1.5-2 mm long.

It's whacked off biggly.



Cleaned up my sloppy chops with a file.

Cut a slot. This time made it bigger to accommodate a coin, like the good old days.



Lefty is righty.

Trimmed a 7/8" vinyl leg tip. Fits super tight. I don't care for the gloss look but this time it'll do... Decreased stickout by 8 mm but diameter also helps clear ejected rounds....


Note: This mod is not SWFA approved. I would like to send them one someday but down to two SWFA FFs now.

Enjoy and Get Some.

Nice! I dig it.

Couldn’t you just cut the numbers off the cap then use the set screws to hold it in place?

Or go even further and D/T the stem and put a screw through the top of the cap?

For a fraction of the overall reduction, yah sure. Go for it. I think the knurled part of the knob could be ground down... Sans preference for capped windage of course.

Gotcha. Couldn’t remember how much bite that cap had. Could possibly drill the cap all the way and let the stem pass through it.

🤔.....maybe a winter project for 16 Bore Engineering & Skullphuck, Inc.

Pop needs a project.

Next stop at home I will grind a knob to see what happens. Not sure how much I can trim and chop while maintaining the o-rings?

Just mount it 90 degrees to the left and swap turret caps. This puts the the large turret on the left side and greatly improves ejection.

I did that with a 3-9 with Mil-Dot for a while. Not so uber with the Mil Quad. Love the Mil-Quad, upright.

This is not an attempt to suggest a correct path forward. More of a continued demonstration of my dislike of the windage dial that is, in my use, used once, during sight-in.

YMMV

It’s kinda silly to rob yourself of all the windage. If you were trying to take a 2,000 yard shot with a 150 mph cross wind, you’d need 68 Mils of windage.


7mag/162’s of course. 😂😂😂


But maybe my math is off.....

You need a mini tubing cutter.

Use 180 ELDs....


Dremel and a machine sander are more to my liking, I mean mentality!

Cool mod. Thanks for sharing the detailed pics. Does this reduce the overall weight to any measurable degree?

No

Should be a sticky!

Don't be gross!

and a continued demonstration of big balls!

I'm not saying I never broke a scope, but I never got up the nerve to start sawing on one!

You do good work on those stocks too, so I know when to quit for me is before I start.

I'm pretty sure I could make a 2x4 out of a stock, I think you could go the other way.

Hells bells!

I thought ya just yanked off the turret and stuck the rubber doohickey on...…
I didn't know it had to undergo surgery!
I Think I'm gonna rethink thinking about this thing....

Shooter 71 Did the work on SWFA Turrets https://shaenrifles.com/

Posts about turrets

https://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/14631342/1

No no no. You can gain a lot by yank and cap.... Do not let this thread get you down....

Thanks Boom, I’ll pull in off and check it out 👍

I'm guessing this will surely hinder the lifetime warranty.

6x meet dremel. This was incredibably simple to do. I want to mess around with other caps and find something a little better looking.

Thanks boomer

Ohhhh chit, now you done it! LOL

Soooo much better without the big knobber hanging off the side. Gotta send the elevation turret off and get it machined now.

still stunned SWFA doesn't make this THE option. Sell like hotcakes. In two years Windage turret would be the option.

...and no one would want that option.

Cap the windage on the 3-9 and 6x.

Make the elevation low profile.

Zero stop the elevation.

....own the market.

MntBoomer,
Found it (7/8") capped it and all is well - Thanks ! BT53

Agreed 100 %

Saweet. The ones in my pics are those bigass tapered rubber leg caps ground down. A biotch compared to the vinyl.

Happy blasting.

My new $200 10x from last week's sale knocks the spent brass on my 6CM right back into the chamber, every time. Guess it's time to get the dremel out...

Sounds like you might have an ejector issue