i think there is a group buy going on right now for one of his molds, a 125grain 9mm with no lube groove, ideal for powder coating.
I signed up through facebook with his facebook page and noticed it there for those interested.

I have the 125gr lube-groove version of his from one of the group buys a few years ago; nice mold and a good bullet design.

i think he was redoing that version too. This one is 130grain solid or the hp at 125 grain
i ordered both of them without lube groove.
powdercoating has got to me.

I may consider reaming the lube grooves out of mine; it shoots fine but they tend to hang up when ejecting from the mold. It had square bottom grooves that were hanging up pretty bad, I turned them to round bottom but it still hangs up a little. Don't need them for PC anyway.

I've switched to using my 105gr modified hollow point 100% for "normal" loads, but that 125gr Mihec hollow point makes a great subsonic/suppressed bullet. I don't remember if I modified the pins; they are a straight sided cone but still deep. Cast from wheel weights, they give perfect expansion at 900-1000 fps. Real good load for charging bunnies and squirrels, long as you don't plan to eat them.

I'm getting reading to do some casting again and need to get up to speed on powder coating. I always hated lubrisizers and smoky messy lubes. I had planned on moving towards tumble lubing and picked up some tumble lube molds with the smaller multiple grooves.

Now I'm really interested in powder coating and want to move that way. Any downsides to powder coating a tumble lube style bullet. It doesn't look like there would be. I'd like to keep getting tumble lube style molds and powder coating the bullets but having the option to tumble lube if wanted. Any down sides?

Also, I have the lee 310 g gc .429 conventional mold but I don't want to run gas checks. I'm thinking about having the mold milled down to take the shank off where the gc goes and lighten up the bullet a bit. I think a 270 g or so non gc of that bullet would be great. Is there anywhere that could mill the mold down for me,

Bb

That seems like a job any reasonably equipped local machine shop could handle.

Will one of you two boys please explain how that "milling down to take the shank off where the gc goes and lighten up the bullet" is going to work? I'm justa dumb assed redneck and don't understand. But I don't understand how pigs can fly, so what do I know?

Assuming the mold is base pour, the gas check end of the holes is the top of the block. So you lock up the blocks in the mill vise and take a slab off the top of the blocks, doing this to sufficient depth to eliminate the gas check portion of the cavities.

AH SO!! You just shorten the whole thing. That will work. That goes to show you what using Hoch nose pour molds will do for you. I got's all discombobulated. No wonder those dern pigs can't fly. Ya never get too old to learn things and I have to re-learn that every day. Thanks.

I assume that BB knows he can shoot that CG bullet with no GC on the base and it'll do fine just like that unless he just wants to shorten it to make the bullet lighter. I shoot them like that all the time with no problems and probably everybody else do it too.

i have fired that bullet both with gas checks and no gas checks powdercoating both examples. there was zero leading not using the gas check.
bullet looked like it could be fired again.
i was using a contender with one grain under the maximum for aacurate powder.
yondering would be a better source than me, as to using powercoating on a alox designed bullet. but i can't see it would have any effect.
i have a lot of alox laying around, and have used it. but generally took some alcohol and wiped off the exposed part of the bullet after seating. 118today i think in my back yard and alox doesn't hold up to well.

I do realize you can shoot them without the check I was just looking for a little bit lighter bullet. I thought it might make a good 270 or so grain wide flat nose. That's enough weight to still shoot through most anything I'll use it for.

Bb

Burleyboy, if you're satisfied with the tumble lube designs, they'll work just as well or better with powder coating. Personally, I've never found one of Lee's tumble lube designs that shot as well as its traditional grooved counterpart, whether powder coated or not.

If you try powder coating the way I do it, you'll probably not find any reason to tumble lube again; the process is very similar and takes about the same amount of time, but the powder coating is far superior and more versatile.

If you don't have somebody local to mill that mold, I can do it. Shoot me a PM if you're interested.