This is “normal” big. Huge Cloudbreak. Barrels you can drive a semi in. The last wave in this video is absolutely sick. Wave of a lifetime for ANY surfer.
Laird Hamilton’s ride at Teahupoo is the gnarliest thing I’ve ever seen. There’s just something about that wave breaking on a shallow reef that would scare the hell out of me
I love body surfing, probably the best for riding waves. No interface between a person and the wave. Biggest I've ever done, and it was about the scariest thing but I was a teenager, was about 9'-12' south swell in SoCal. 4 rides and we were pushed a mile north or so from where we started. No ride out on a jetski.
However, this dude is Cray-Cray to the max. Uses a hand board too, but that's OK by me.
I love body surfing, probably the best for riding waves. No interface between a person and the wave. Biggest I've ever done, and it was about the scariest thing but I was a teenager, was about 9'-12' south swell in SoCal. 4 rides and we were pushed a mile north or so from where we started. No ride out on a jetski.
However, this dude is Cray-Cray to the max. Uses a hand board too, but that's OK by me.
Jeff Clark paddling out and surfing that place alone is nuts. It's sharky AF! Dangerous wave too. Killed Mark Foo in the mid 90's
Hell, Cortez Bank is also sharky AF! Great Whites love both places
I love body surfing, probably the best for riding waves. No interface between a person and the wave. Biggest I've ever done, and it was about the scariest thing but I was a teenager, was about 9'-12' south swell in SoCal. 4 rides and we were pushed a mile north or so from where we started. No ride out on a jetski.
However, this dude is Cray-Cray to the max. Uses a hand board too, but that's OK by me.
Jeff Clark paddling out and surfing that place alone is nuts. It's sharky AF! Dangerous wave too. Killed Mark Foo in the mid 90's
Hell, Cortez Bank is also sharky AF! Great Whites love both places
We always heard stories of Whites in the area when I lived and played in the waves in SoCal. Including a known attack on an ocean swimmer off La Jolla.
Then Shark Week comes along they tell us it's a pupping area for them!
Glad I had moved out well before having that knowledge.
I love body surfing, probably the best for riding waves. No interface between a person and the wave. Biggest I've ever done, and it was about the scariest thing but I was a teenager, was about 9'-12' south swell in SoCal. 4 rides and we were pushed a mile north or so from where we started. No ride out on a jetski.
However, this dude is Cray-Cray to the max. Uses a hand board too, but that's OK by me.
Jeff Clark paddling out and surfing that place alone is nuts. It's sharky AF! Dangerous wave too. Killed Mark Foo in the mid 90's
Hell, Cortez Bank is also sharky AF! Great Whites love both places
We always heard stories of Whites in the area when I lived and played in the waves in SoCal. Including a known attack on an ocean swimmer off La Jolla.
Then Shark Week comes along they tell us it's a pupping area for them!
Glad I had moved out well before having that knowledge.
I love body surfing, probably the best for riding waves. No interface between a person and the wave. Biggest I've ever done, and it was about the scariest thing but I was a teenager, was about 9'-12' south swell in SoCal. 4 rides and we were pushed a mile north or so from where we started. No ride out on a jetski.
However, this dude is Cray-Cray to the max. Uses a hand board too, but that's OK by me.
Jeff Clark paddling out and surfing that place alone is nuts. It's sharky AF! Dangerous wave too. Killed Mark Foo in the mid 90's
Hell, Cortez Bank is also sharky AF! Great Whites love both places
We always heard stories of Whites in the area when I lived and played in the waves in SoCal. Including a known attack on an ocean swimmer off La Jolla.
Then Shark Week comes along they tell us it's a pupping area for them!
Glad I had moved out well before having that knowledge.
Oh the bliss of kelp beds...
Yeah,
learning to SCUBA dive in NorCal was fun too. And I was studying fish biology at the time and knew what was out there!
Dunno any of you wankers ever tried knee/belly boards or body surfing, but there's a famous spot in S. California known as The Wedge. Been there and crashed a few times, barrel of fun it is.