I apologize for this simple question, but I have not yet found the info I need.

Been busy with grandkids, fishing, selling trailers, trading trucks etc….and what not and found myself in a time crunch.

Bought a beater F150….2014 … and have been working diligently to get it in useable shape for a weekend trip to the mountains.

BUT…. It is now acting funny and displaying different and seemingly.. to me….odd DIC messages…. Runs, but telling me different things are not right……….. ……

Got some info my sister who one time managed a transmission repair shop and she tells me to get an OBD2 scanner…..

She tells me to be sure to get one that can “clear codes” and “clear faults” ….. because not all OBD2 scanners do this well.


Having said all that, what scanner should I go get?

Thanks,

TF

I don't think you can go too far wrong with anything by Autel. Pricey...until you figure that shop labor is now around 120 bucks an hour.
They all read codes ok, but they all don't clear codes ok.

Go to Amazon and pick your poison.

Unless it’s a fluke, the code is being triggered by a sensor detecting something is wrong. Clear it and it will return if condition is still wrong.

Some of the auto store chains (Napa, O’Reilley, etc) will have a loaner.

If you live close enough to one, take it out in the parking lot, clear the codes, then see which ones return after driving some more.

Yes, but clearing may get me out of “limp mode” when the cause of the limp mode is bogus or just some confused ecu model caused by a currently mysterious short or ?

Ie…Honda Odyssey transmission went into limp mode running across Nevada, my sister cleared fault and ran another 100 miles or so before it did again. Got to NoCal and husband fixed it there.

I could do that…. We have a very well run O’Reilly here in Loveland.

I've been using this one for a couple of years to read and clear codes on several vehicles we own. It works well and isn't expensive. It does not give diagnostic information- - - -jot down the codes it displays and do a net search for repair suggestions.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/223991446572?

I bought this one: Autel AP200 bluetooth scanner. It connects to my phone, shows codes, clears codes, live data.

I bought an actron scanner probably 15 years ago that does all I need. Right now 20-40 buck scanners abound that do what you want.
Now about limp mode, that is usually caused by the tranny. I suspect that the low pressure switch is activated. Low pressure is a good indication of needing a filter swap. The last one I worked on in limp mode the filter had partially separated and was allowing fluid leakage.

Autel

You could disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and see what happens.
My sister had an emissions code that disappeared when her battery died. My BIL pulled it out, ran it to Costco to warranty. A half hour later with a new battery and the code hasn't come back.

I think that after you disconnect the battery you need to take the positive cable and connect it to the negative post on the battery in order to discharge the computer.
Double check this advice before doing it…😵

Dont do that you will fry the puter, but that will clear the codes. Disconnect the battery then let sit 10-15 min and the caps in the air bags and puter will discharge on their own. Hook up the positive cable first to avoid arcing on reconnect which can also fry the puter.

Obsolete info- - - - -OBD II systems have a "keep alive" battery in the computer that retains memory for several days at a minimum. The light might go out, but the code stays in long term memory. The battery disconnect is like taking an aspirin for the headache caused by a brain tumor- - - -helps the symptom without treating the cause of the problem.

A slightly weak battery can cause hordes of problems.

Well, I got in the truck, started it up….turned on the radio and got a strange raspy noise from the left door speaker and two fairly loud pops. Radio is now very fuzzy.

Truck still runs good but radio not so much.

No jumble of DIC messages…..so?

Guess I will go ahead and take it to the mountains on Saturday.

IDK what’s wrong. Will order an OBD gizmo tonight, but now not hopeful it will give me much info.

Maybe take it to the “sound doctor” next week.

I haven't scanned it with my code reader so good advice. It is a 2000 Toyota Camry so it's an early OBD II system, I'll check it tomorrow.

I got real chit ...u don't need..it's free at the auto parts shop to have them look ...or. ...get a blue driver... Amazon.... 99% of what you need is in blue driver.

I picked up one for 14 bucks about 4 years ago on Amazon.....It works and clears codes fine.... every time I forget and fill my truck up and leave it running it sets a code

Wally World HyperTough scanner works fine for clearing codes.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Car-Faul...1608133986?athbdg=L1600&from=/search

This will sometimes work and a further step is disconnect both battery cables and touch them together and that is supposed to drain all stored memories out of ECUs and body modules. Simple Autels work in the sub $200n range but if you’re more of home mechanic, eBay SnapOn scanners can be had for good prices. Just get one that is updated beyond your car’s model year. I have the Zues which retails for 9K that I picked up for $1500 at one year old and updated through 2022. Now I do a bunch of work on my own vehicles and this tool works great and I can also load tuning software for model specific cars. It’s basically a Windows tablet. May be more that what the OP is looking for but as a general note high quality scanners can be found for low prices. I even checked with a SnapOn rep to make sure it wasn’t a repo. If it was and you tried to updated, SnapOn won’t do it. They can’t take if from you but they won’t support it.

To the OP, get a scanner read the codes, research them on the inter web and then clear to see if they come back.

Whatever you buy, make sure it is bi-directional. Yes they are more but the added cost is worth it


https://www.innova.com

You might consider FORScan. FORScan is a software scanner for Ford, Mazda, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles, designed to work over ELM327 and J2534 Pass-Thru compatible adapters.

It is software you can download and install on your PC or smartphone. You have to purchase an OBDII adapter to plug in. More info at that link above and also on Ford Truck Enthusiasts, which is a great forum for help and troubleshooting in general.

Very true.


Anyway....get a cheap auto store obd2 unit.


Should be less than 30 bucks.

My Autel maxisys 906 was over a 1000 dollars a couple years ago.


It paid for itself on the first job....but I am a semi professional mechanic.


My old crappy 8.1 gmc will go into a limp mode from going through a car wash.


The cheap code reader works just fine for that.