What's the best way to touch up the edge on a single bit axe? I have a bench grinder and an angle grinder but I was wondering if those might get it too hot.
It's just dull. not really beat up.
Thanks
Doug

I always use a hand file.

This

After you get the edge set with a file, if you want to go nuts you can take a sharpening stone (Arkansas, India, diamond, whatever, etc) and work on the axe with it. Then use it for touch ups.

You are correct in that you have to be really careful not to overheat the steel with power tools.

BASTARD














file.

A double cut for roughing it in, and a nice single for fine work.

I've got to be careful with this one. I bought it at an estate sale on Old Town Alexandria Va. The lady said it was the one George Washington used to chop down his old man's cherry tree! I paid the three bucks and split!

Can I borrow that?

A sharp hand file with a good handle is all you need. The steel in an axe is not real hard so it is pretty easy to file. Wear leather gloves and file from the edge back towards the handle.

This

File will work fine. If it just needs a touch-up, I'll rub circles with the 100 grit silicon carbide stone.

A true touch up takes about 30 sec per side. If it needs more than that I'll plug in the angle grinder.

Sweet!

Some sort of stationary sander is what most pros use. If you keep a finger or two on the steel up near the edge as you grind/sand you'll know if its getting too hot. When it gets warm, dunk it in a bucket for a few seconds.

Files are good for removing a lot of stock, but won't give much of an edge. A circular stone or maybe one of those DMT Dia-fold sharpeners are what you need to get and keep a sharp edge.

A dull axe won't won't cut wood worth a damn but they will gash open a shin quite well

i think i once owned the same ax! yes. the head had been replaced twice and the handle about nine times, but it was still the very same ax. that ax is worth a bunch.

the one i had was stolen off my carport a decade ago...have no clue where it went.

I work the edge with a very fine file, then a set of stones, and then strop the edge. Takes a little time, but the results are worth it.

Good sharp Bassturd file and wear gloves.

I do like to follow up my file with one of these.

Handy hint, use water not oil and your stone will be a lot easier to carry around.

http://www.amazon.com/Lansky-LPUCK-...=8-1&keywords=round+sharpening+stone

That's a pretty good price too. It doesn't say the make up, I like the silicon carbide pucs.

Good grief...... The OP said 'grind'. Not file, not bastard, not diamond, not puck.

PUCK me, I'm the only one that answered correctly. What do I win?

Well is sure ain't a new grinding wheel. You got the best I have seen.

I have ruined edges on machetes, knives, bayonets, etc. as a boy before I learned not to use bench grinders.

I wish that I had my grandfather's big old foot-pumped grindstone with a can trickling water. That was slow and cool. They are out there, but cost a bit these days,

I would slack belt sharpen on a 2X72 grinder but that's no help if you don't have one around. I prefer a convex grind on the edge but as long as it's sharp I can live with it.

I got the impression he was leanin more towards the electrical plug n play remedy. If he's bustin wood off the back porch you got the cure for sure. On the side of a ridge a 1/2 mile from the truck maybe not so much.

Sanding pad of 120 grit on a 4.5" hand held grinder does a very good job.

This

quench often

I have to deal with Mesquite stumps, below grade, on a pretty regular basis.
......all of the traditional niceties are reserved for a Norlund I bought in Canada in 1975 (that still wears it's original handle) and a coupla' favorite hawks.

......a WORKING axe, that's used almost daily ? ....Hand grinder and a bucket of ice water,....maybe finish on the belt sander.

GTC

Yep, got this ax back in the 70's, held up well. Changed the head once and two handles, its hung in there real well. (smartass emoticon)

If you like I can help you get a handle on it.

Sell you the original albino moose....

After a file (Grobet are best I've found) I turn the belt on a sander inside out and put some lapping compound on it and use the slack section for a smooth nice cutting finish.
Same with a Dynabrade if one is handy.
Lord I am lazy.

Handy hint, use water not oil and your stone will be a lot easier to carry around."

I carry mine slipped into an old white cotton sock.Because I like oil.

+1 for the belt sander method. Get a scarey sharp convex edge on it. Much more durable.

I always used oil but decided to try water when I got a new stone for my axes from Amazon. For the difference in mess I will keep using just water on this stone. So far it is working great.

Why not a WorkSharp with the tool attachment?

Work Sharp

I started using water on the stone years ago. A little liquid dish soap helps to keep the stone's pores open.

Thanks for the replies.
I went the file and stone route.
I got it pretty sharp. With a little more stone work it'll shave hair offa me arm!



Cause I don't want to spend a buck thirty iffin I ain't gotta.
And I needed it sharp yesterday!

The trick in all this is once you get it sharp, keep it that way. Sort of like a professional meat cutter steeling a knife all the time. Keep one of those round stones in your pocket. When you feel the edge starting to dull, spit on the stone and touch up the edge. You won't have to grind/file so often.

Dull axes are much more dangerous than you might think. My grandfather was a lumberjack and you could just about shave with his limbing axes.

+1

Works like a champ on a hatchet. Might be a tad unwieldy on a full-sized axe. Sharpens scissor/shears etc like new as well.