Lost here, anybody have a clue as to whether or not this system has any provision for INTERNAL adjustment, or am I stuck with modifying the "turret Mounts ?"

A buddy got the setup from Sarco 3 -4 year ago, no brochure or SFA.
I' helped him today, getting the mounts half azz leveled, and bore sighting for windage than became a snap,....dammit, no shooting today, the scope is needing to come up in the front,(doable, at the threshold of some weird mods),...or down at it's back, which don't look promising at all.

Shims?

The rectangular piece ....
This gizmo seems to...
A.) Focus the scope ?????
B.) damn sure MOVES the vert and horiz. very Germanic three point reticle when you start fooling with it.

As far as I can see, the little "lock screw laying horizontally behind the elevation wheel looks to be simply for locking things down , once dialed in.

1000 Meters ?,....yeah, ...sure.

Okay Guys and Gals, I'm sure that one of you will have a handle on this beast, I sure as hell don't.

GTC

GTC, you come up with the coolest schit...

Greg,

Appears to be a wonder from another time to me. I'd vote for shims, something I've done for more than a few sights over the years. Have a small stock of brass ranging from .003" upward, mostly in increments of .005". Source was the local hobby store for my stash, might find some in a craft store, not certain of that.

The .003" stuff is about as rigid as aluminum foil, which might be another source to consider. It all cuts easy with good scissors.

Aha, attack of the optics forum techno-weenies

If either one of you NASA types can send me over a "shim" at LEAST 1/4 inch thick, I'd be eternally grateful.

GTC

THAT much?

Any and all provision for wind is up to the shooter, from what I can see,....all the windage hoo-ya's in the rear mount itself.

GTC

Take it out & shoot it...at range.

WAY way out Sean, at least that much....

GTC

Holy crap.

All I can figure is someone slapped on mounts that aren't kosher to the rifle.

Looks like the elevation is in the scope, and the windage is in the rear mount.

Buy a Leupold?

I'm BORESIGHTING the rifle on fence posts, power poles, and transformers that I've performed the same exercise with at least a coupla' hundred times.

I don't need to "TRY" chit to "see where it's hitting", I KNOW.
where it's going to hit, at this time,....

GTC

Exactomente,

Gracias !

GTC

The problem is the mounts are so FUBAR as to render the elevation in the scope useless.

Sorry, GTC, but someone had to state the obvious.

The way it was originally done was by filing the rear mount to correct elevation. You won't find shims on actual wartime sniper 98k's.

MAYBE, JUST MAYBE:

- You loosen the two set screws on the top.

- Then, you rotate either the entire circle, or the "handle" until you've zeroed elev @ 100m.

- The reticle will probably not remain centered, because they move for elevation changes, but that's OK.

- retighten the two set screws on top.

- When you're "on" @ 100m, loosen the set screw and set the ranging dial to the proper spot, then retighten the set screw on the side.

MAYBE

The mounts do INDEED need a little more hand fitting / bedding, and the lower rings will damn sure need lapping,....BUT
I do think that something along the order of what you're suggesting is possible,.....

Danke !

GTC

Are those peep through holes under the scope?
How do they align with point of impact?

Interesting puzzle you have there.
Shims are not the answer.

I was pondering the pics while you was typing.
This makes sense.

Damn cool rig, Greg.
I hope ya figure it out.

Thanks for all the Skookum input,....I'm going to post whatever solutions or rejections of practical solutions materialize.

A rare day under a cooler in the shop closes, and I have to get back to farming.

GTC

FWIW I have a similar but not identical scope. These scopes were designed to be installed in hand-fitted mounts, aligned at the factory or by an armourer, rather than being easily adjusted by the user as we'd now expect. They have no provision for internal windage adjustment, which was instead set by two opposing screws in the rear base (and then intended to be left alone).

What is on the top is an outer ring for elevation and an inner dial for focus, together with that screw at the rear to lock the elevation. What you do is zero for elevation at, say, 100 metres, using the outer ring to adjust elevation (and ignoring what range is shown for the moment). You then loosen the screws in the inner dial (there should be three, but I can only see two in your photos) and move the outer ring until the 100 mark lines up with the arrow, then tighten the three screws again. Shoot a group to confirm and you are good to go.

If the result is that the tip of the post is nowhere near the centre of the field of view, you may want to do something about the mount, but I wouldn't do that solely based on boresighting. The actual POI may vary according to such things as barrel harmonics with the load you use, for example. In fact you may find it worthwhile to try different loads to tweak the outcome if your first choice doesn't give the result you want.

Good input, and I thank you, Sir.
I understand the absolute and never ignored dictum that a rifle should be test fired, prior to making any calls on "final zero", and that harmonics and load data play a large part in results garnered.
At this point, though, "sight picture" versus where the barrel actually boresights indicate some seriously divergent angles of elevation.
At this point it certainly looks as though the mounts are going to have to get some sort of major tweak, prior to applying the procedure you have most graciously provided.

Greg

Does the scope tube look like it is out of alignment with the bore? I would spin the scope upside down and bore sight again to see if the mounts or scope internals are off. Wondering if someone could have cranked the range adjustment past 1000 meters, 1400 or so meters might throw things off by your "1/4 inch". Just wondering out loud, good luck dialing in that setup.

As you can see, I have one that is very similar



Mine came on a sort of custom .243 built on a Mexican Mauser action that I bought about 35 years ago. The mounts fit Leupold/Redfield bases and the only windage adjustment is in the mounts. The "turret" dial takes care of elevation, while the focus is adjusted with the little ring on the barrel in front of the ocular bell. I would guess that you are looking at having to fabricate a set of windage adjustable mounts that will work with the range of elevation adjustment that you have in the scope.

I no longer use this scope--it's basically a collector's item, but it did work as advertised when it came off the rifle.

Red Star Mountain makes a reproduction of that mount and says to go to their facebook page for tech help.

http://www.rsmscope.com/index.php/g...unt-with-split-rings-26-5mm-no-1008.html

Perzackly what I have here, but those look a LOT rougher, in terms of machine finish.

Mike Venturino rode in to the rescue, this AM ( THANKS DUKE !)

....ya' know I'd READ this article, way back when, and it obviously didn't stick, (CRS can be a real Betch, No ?)

Link: http://gunsmagazine.com/5-german-sniper-systems/

The scope is INDEED very parallel to the bore axis, as encountered and mounted,....I had to LEVEL / CENTER the mounts, ...and that accomplished, the windage screws brought the reticle sight picture right spang into windage parody with the irons and the boresight.

Thank you everybody for the great dialogue,....when time allows, the old Mauser will be coming over for another visit, and I'll be seeing if something isn't dicked up in the internals. The FILE MARKS on the elevation ring retaining plate screws lead me to believe that somebody got in there and farged something up.

Semper Coonass,

GTC