Home
Posted By: hatari Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness - 02/22/17
Anybody done a horse pack trip here just north of Yellowstone? Looking to take the family on a little fishing/riding adventure in July. Any outfitters to suggest or things to do/avoid?
Grizzlies are real, bear spray isn't all I would carry.
I got to hunt a late season migration hunt just north of Yellowstone in 83 and again in 85. Incredible amount of Elk everyday just pouring out of the park migrating north. These tags aren't even available anymore. Beautiful country back then and likely still is. As mentioned already it's Grizzly country and now over run with wolves! Sorry I can't be any help to you but your post brought back some fond memories.
Hatari: I have done a lot of day hiking and fishing in the Absaroka - Beartooth Wilderness in the past.
Take aspirin along to help with altitude sickness as I see you are from "low country".
I took my oldest son and both my brothers there once and at the time we were all from the Seattle area (sea level!) and one place we camped was near Beartooth Pass (elevation 10,947'!).
All of us had difficulty "adjusting" to the altitude.
They have had a LOT of snow up thataway this year - I hope the trails are clear for your riding pleasure by then.
Enjoy your getaway and I wish I could be more help with a horse packer - I have just never used one up there.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy
I backpacked that area for about 10 straight summers in the 90s. Lots of fish, mosquitoes, and grizzlies. I have a physical therapy appointment in a few minutes, but check back here tonight--I will try to post some advice on best areas for horsepacking and fishing--at least back then. I personally think this is one of the most beautiful areas in the lower 48.
Posted By: tomk Re: Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness - 02/22/17
be sure and drive in or out 212, if you haven't already--awesome
Thanks guys!
I think the best area for horsepack fishing is the northern portion called the Lake Plateau. Even though it is at about 10,000 feet, is has good horse trails going up to the plateau, and once you get to the top, there are lots of lakes within easy reach. The advantage is you have different species in different lakes, and if one isn't hot, you aren't stuck with trying to go over a pass to get to the next one. The best access is from Big Timber on I-90. From there you go south on highway 298 past Mcleod and on past Natural Bridge State Park. The road is variously called Old Boulder Road, Boulder Road, Main Boulder Road, and NF6639. Just don't veer off onto East or West Boulder Road (kind of like Peachtree in Atlanta grin). As for guides, I think the Big Timber Chamber of Commerce or the Montana guides association would be a good place to start. I always backpacked without a guide, and any I might have known are probably retired by now.
Here is a good overall map of the roads leading in. The Boulder road runs down the long club-shaped corridor that splits into the wilderness from the north.The plateau lakes are to the east/southeast of the road.
http://www.wilderness.net/map.cfm?x...max=-12177884.2574&ymax=5717230.7749
This book is the must have resource for fishing info--
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0...ative=373489&creativeASIN=0762742275
Now some info on conditions. Depending on the year, snow may still be on parts of the trails in early July, and it will be cold at nights--sometimes below freezing. Be sure to take longjohns and fleece for layering. In a matter of minutes it can go from sunny to windy thunderstorms with hail or snow. I never left camp without rain gear in my daypack. Mosquitoes can match anything seen in southern swamps, so take plenty of repellent. Grizzlies are there, but not as visible as in Yellowstone or Glacier. Nevertheless, bear spray is your friend, unless you are sure you can head shoot an animal that charges uphill faster than you can run downhill.
By far, my biggest problem each summer was the initial altitude adjustment. Coming from Alabama, it took my body several days to shake the headaches. If you haven't done altitude before, read up on ways to ease the transition.
Now if this all sounds dismal, why would I have spent the best summers of my life there, and returned to scatter my wife's ashes? Well, in addition to the fishing, take a look at this...
http://www.dougroanephotography.com/Nature/Montanas-Absaroka-Beartooth/i-CsB3F68


Beautiful Pictures. Thanks for posting.

I have hunted just on the west edge, east out of Paradise Valley several years ago. Saw my first grizzly in the lower 48 there. Beautiful country.

Hope to return for elk on October of 2018.

Should be a great trip for you.
Thanks for the super info and links! Beautiful looking country.
Nice pics!
Hatari,
Paul Donohoe has a ranch just north of Nye, MT and the ranch is surrounded on three sides with national forest land. The log hunters lodge has a picture window looking south with a view of the high country of Yellowstone.

I hunted with him a few years ago, and he does cater to year around outfitting, and he had good horses, and he and his wife are good hosts.
I would give him a call and if he isn't able to provide your exact need, he could probably give you someone's name that could.

donohoeoutfitting.com



The mistake most people make in dealing with the altitude is they are so excited to be there that they hit the ground running. If at all possible plan on a couple of easy days, or at least one, before running up and down the hills. stay hydrated and don't overdo the alcohol. It will make a big difference.
I learned the hard way as do most.

That's very true. I find "my legs" on about day-three.

Fluids + aspirin q 4hrs is a reasonable formula for real Flatlanders. Plus fluids. Plus fluids -- Minus ethanol and, hold caffeine to a minimum.
Originally Posted by hatari
Thanks for the super info and links! Beautiful looking country.
If the bears make you nervous, take a look at any of the wilderness areas in Idaho. We have the most acres of wilderness in the lower 48...and for the most part, no griz.
Originally Posted by Rock Chuck
Originally Posted by hatari
Thanks for the super info and links! Beautiful looking country.
If the bears make you nervous, take a look at any of the wilderness areas in Idaho. We have the most acres of wilderness in the lower 48...and for the most part, no griz.


I had my ultimate instantaneous transition from sound sleep to 4-alarm awake one night while backpacking in the Beartooths just outside Red Lodge. Dog barking and something snarling. Seconds later I'm outside the tent with bear spray in one hand and flashlight in the other--nothing but moonlight and silence. Next morning I went by a camp about half a mile up the trail, and a guy told me he went out to pee about midnight and saw a cougar ghosting through his campsite. Don't know what that cat was after, but glad to have a dog in the tent. I guess I always sleep with one eye open in griz country, but never had one as close as that cougar. I have accidentally been so close to black bears I could smell them, and I definitely don't want to be that close to a grizzly.
Hatari,

I hate horses for obvious reasons but I backpack in that area every summer. Lots of great fishing and a schit ton of bears.

I once kicked a grizzly bear's ass with nothing but a can of beer in that area. I had two witnesses also.

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Nice pic's!

I've always wanted to do some serious trout fishing in those wilderness waters.

Last chance -- in the Winds -- I was too busy trying to collect elk meat though I was near "postcard" trout water every day.

It really was a tug-of-war as to what to do..
Some pretty country. What pack and tipi are you using there?
Alagator: I had a "butt clincher" incident in the Beartooths one late October day.
Myself and two Mule Deer Hunting partners had driven through a swinging "road closed gate" on the main highway and up into the snowy Beartooths we went.
Intent on big ol Buck Mulies.
Soon we found Deer tracks heading every whichway and off we went in three different directions.
I was on the fresh track of a big Mule Deer and following it intently for a mile or so and then came across fresh Grizzly tracks!
Oh boy I said to myself - I wish I had brought my pre-64 Winchester Model 70 in 300 Winchester Magnum instead of my pre-64 in 270 Winchester.
Oh well I said to myself I'll be on the lookout for the Griz and keep after the Mulie. The Mulie and the Griz both stayed in a small valley that had a small creek in it that had not yet froze over.
The Griz tracks are now so prevalent they are concerning me and I am following the shallow creek on one bank when from behind me I hear some vigorous splashing in the creek - I knew it wasn't the Mule Deer and only a Grizzly could make that much noise!
I was instantly inundated with adrenaline as I spun around switching off the safety on my Rifle and bracing myself for the expected Grizzly mauling!
I was amazed as I turned around to see not a Grizzly Bear as expected but two large Brook Trout splashing toward me in a shallow gravel riffle of the creek!
Thank God I said to myself.
The noise those two Trout made had scared me half to death - it took me some time to quit trembling.
I decided to get away from the Bear tracks and head for a high point and scan for Deer (and Griz!) from there.
Later I did mention the Grizzly tracks to my Hunting companions but skipped the part about how the Brookies scared me so badly.
Its been a couple of years since I've been up in the Beartooths - I am putting it on my list of "to do's" for this late summer/early fall.
Like Deflave's amazing pictures relay - that country is spectacular, wild and huge.
Hold into the wind
VarmintGuy
Posted By: RAS Re: Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness - 02/25/17
Took two elk out of that area.

Pretty country. Highly recommend making it happen.
Nice pics, deflave. We have been in the area many times but not too far off pavement.
Originally Posted by Gringo Loco
Some pretty country. What pack and tipi are you using there?


That's a Go-Lite shangri-la 3 I believe.

I use an Osprey something or other. I'm on the road so can not say the exact model.



Dave
Originally Posted by George_De_Vries_3rd

Nice pic's!

I've always wanted to do some serious trout fishing in those wilderness waters.

Last chance -- in the Winds -- I was too busy trying to collect elk meat though I was near "postcard" trout water every day.

It really was a tug-of-war as to what to do..


I'd love to draw a goat tag down there.



Dave
My favorite fishing hole in that area. 3 1/2 mile walk each way as my age and physical condition keep me from hauling a tent and groceries around so I can't spend the night.

[Linked Image]

Luke the dog here just about caused me to have a runaway as I was busy taking a little nap and woke up with his face right in mine but his owner was calling out Don't shoot, he"s friendly. And was.
Posted By: las Re: Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness - 02/25/17
Originally Posted by Bigbuck215
My favorite fishing hole in that area. 3 1/2 mile walk each way as my age and physical condition keep me from hauling a tent and groceries around so I can't spend the night.

[Linked Image]

Luke the dog here just about caused me to have a runaway as I was busy taking a little nap and woke up with his face right in mine but his owner was calling out Don't shoot, he"s friendly. And was.


smile Friendly dogs can scare a guy!

An area i'd love to spend time in, but probably never will. Still too much Alaska!
Originally Posted by deflave
Hatari,

I hate horses for obvious reasons but I backpack in that area every summer. Lots of great fishing and a schit ton of bears.

I once kicked a grizzly bear's ass with nothing but a can of beer in that area. I had two witnesses also.

[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


[Linked Image]


What knife is that in the pic?
That is a Rick Menefee Bigger, Better, Boner.
Hey Ivan! Save some fish for the rest of us!





Travis
Originally Posted by deflave
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]


Really nice!
Yup, darn nice pictures Travis. Fish are cool, goats are cooler.
Thanks guys. I love to inspire.


[Linked Image]

That last mile killed him... laughin'.
[Linked Image]

[Linked Image]

Here's schitdick when he was 12'ish. He's way tougher than the dog.

[Linked Image]
Yea, this sure is some beautiful country! Just wish I could shed about twenty years.
Originally Posted by deflave
Hey Ivan! Save some fish for the rest of us!





Travis


OK. I'm gonna will the rest of em to you. All you gotta do is catch em and I bet you know how that's done!
I dont know chit about hunting this area, but damn its a beautiful drive through. My MIL lives in Belgrade, Mt and we drive through on the way to Jackson, Wy through Yellowstone when we are out there. If I remember right, we stop and spend a night in Red Lodge on the way and do our best to drink all of their whiskey while we are there. Little town with some cool ass bars.
© 24hourcampfire