I've used nothing but Fram . . Headed to NAPA from now on .

Fram is junk apparently. Sure purdy though.

Napa gold ...wix was the one to have ...now wix an gold are the same !

Stihl

Lol...i just watched to vid (it didnt load,so i stated what i know)...good on me

Pretty informative, thanks

Cram is the Leupold of oil filters.

Used to be good, not so much anymore.

I node you was smart .

NAPA gold.

Fram was never good.

Napa Gold for decades.

Good information in the video. There are good filter choices available beyond those covered above......but for the same reasons. Probably one of the first disseminators of this info was bobistheoilguy.com. For years that site has dissected, examined, and rated oil filters.

Nothing wrong with shopping for price, as long as you limit your field to quality products. I use Baldwin filters. Price break by buying in quantity.

WIX

Why didn't someone tell me Fram sucks - start a thread - now I feel like a big stupid .

Napa gold or Mobil one is all I use.

several years back I was reading on a forum about Kias of all cars, and they were saying that Frams messed with your oil pressure.

Echo or Husky!!!

You could, but you better be running a 'skip chain'

Switched to Wix back in early 90's. If you check the part numbers, you'll see Napa numbers share the last four Wix digits. The Napa filter lookup even uses Wix's filter lookup application.

Napa Filter Lookup

Wix Filter Lookup

Have also used Mobil1 synthetic filters or oem filters such as Honda and Ford.

In all fairness, the Fram brand name of oil filters isn't universally bad. The Fram Ultra series of filters have the same features of the other quality filters. And they have a commensurate price of course.

Napa Gold or Wix on my farm equipment, and sometimes the Case/IH filters. Have never used anything but Motorcraft on my Ford cars and trucks. Been using them for over 45 years and never had a problem.

I take my pickup to the same quick lube for years. I have the LOF done every 3000 miles. Use dino oil, no synthetic. I've put over 200,000 miles on the pickup not a hint of engine problems. I'm sure they don't use Napa Gold or Wix. I'll let you know at 300,000 about those paper filters.

Both made by Wix, Only filters I will use other then Toyota OEM on the Tacoma

Fram filters were never any good. All I use is Wix and Mobil one in everything.

Fram tough guard..

Jake buys the farm filters, I use K&N, just for the nut on them. Changing the filter on a Ford 2006 150 is a bear.

Ever since Algore invented the internet, guys on mechanics forums have been running down Fram.

I stick to the factory filters for my F-350... FWIW.. If I couldn't get those for some reason, I'd use WIX..

I wish the video would have included some of the other popular filters like Mobile1 & K&N.

I use whatever Roy uses.

Years ago somebody showed me a display of filters cut open for comparison. Since then, I’ve never used anything but Wix.
Fram was kinda like Craftsman and other brands that for years built a very good reputation by selling quality products, then one day they decided to rest on that reputation and start making and selling junk.
It’s happened again and again in the market. Some say Remington is the latest victim.
7mm

Wix XP synthetic

or

K&N with the welded nut for tight spots

Amsoil is my number 1 choice, otherwise Wix. Though I admit my most recent change on my truck I am running the OE Motorcraft filter since it’s what was most easily accessible.

There are videos that compare all of them. Mobil 1 and Amsoil seem to be at the top.

NAPA Pro-Select- - - -same quality as the Gold, just doesn't have the wrinkle paint on the canister and is painted plain white. No point in paying extra for a fancy paint job! All the commercial fleet vehicles I've maintained over 30-something years got NAPA or Wix filters- - - -millions of miles of trouble-free service.

No full flow filter can match the Frantz bypass filter that uses a roll of toilet paper as a filter media. On the engines I want the oil to be really clean, I run a NAPA full flow filter and a Frantz bypass filter.
Jerry

"I have the LOF done every 3000 miles."

What's an LOF and why have it done every 3000 miles?

If you're running a 6.0, Racor is the OEM for the oil and fuel filters. Donaldson makes the air filter.

NAPA Gold, Wick’s, mobile one, Baldwin, Motorcraft. Fuel filters for 7.3 and 6.0 Baldwin NAPA Motorcraft mainly Motorcraft.

Walmart's filters had a very good reputation but they seem to have quit making them. At least, they don't seem to stock them in the Walmart's around here.

Pro Select are not the same as Gold filters--Pro Select uses a different media and the bypass valve is made of a different material then the Gold filters. How much difference that makes I don't know.

NAPA Gold/WIX conventional are one of the best filters in terms of flitering while maintaining flow.

In the 70s, Consumers Reports had Fram filters rated as one of the best. Pennzoil was rated as one of the best motor oils. Companies change their focus and sometimes a product’s quality suffers.

NAPA Gold filters now seem to have one of the top spots. The same is true for motor oil like Mobile1.

I don’t know who makes Motorcraft filters for Ford, (used on my 6.7) but using them won’t void a warranty. Also, I get them online for less than the gold.


The older Toyota rigs get the gold.

When I bought my new '87 Toyota pickup I chose Fram filters and Valvoline dino oil.
I put a head gasket on it at 420,000(weeping coolant into one cylinder) a few years ago.
When I pulled the head I could see faint cross-hatch at the front and rear of each cylinder.
The valve guides were perfect. The cam lobes showed slight wear.
I do change oil/filter every 2500 miles. I'm sure that is a factor but Fram must be doing something right.
I have read that the only time there is a problem with Fram is when they are run too long.

Pepsi.

He didn't take one apart but I think they are made by same people that make Wix and Napa Gold

For gassers I consider Wix, Bosch, Baldwin and OEM to all be good. I don't think Mobil One or Amsoil are worth their cost unless you're doing extended change intervals or getting them for a substantial discount.

Not a fan of either FRAM or Purolator. I cringe at the sight of K&N "high performance" air filters on anything.

What kind of air filters do you use?

OEM generally. Especially on the 6.0 powerstroke. There isn't a better air filter for it than the Ford/Motorcraft filter made by Donaldson. It has plenty of flow, capacity and good filtration. Same for the Honda air filter. You can often just look at an air filter's pleated media and see the difference in quality. The Honda's media is thick and substantial compared to cheaper aftermarkets I've looked at.

Partial to the Seafoam Extended Life series of filters.

Can anyone cite an independent study where an engine failure was directly attributed to the failure of the oil filter?

You don't need an independent study, its common sense.
If your filter is not working, it is letting particles of dust, and sand in your chambers, which is like putting sand through your carburetor .
It is not like a jugular stroke of the knife to your neck, it is death by a thousand cuts, same for the oil filter.
Talk to a mechanic in an open mine, and he will tell you the effects of dirt on engines, and why they change filters often
Depending on your filter it could be a few thousand miles, or 100,000, its your engine so its your gamble.

"Pay me now, or pay me later"

No independent study, early to mid 90s, I forget the exact year. We are working on the Staten Island landfill, one of the operators lived in Jersey and ran a Volkswagen diesel. We watched him coming up the hill and that damn engine sounded like it was ready to fall out . Open the hood no oil in the engine, we could see oil on the oil filter, it was cracked at the top of the filter along the seam, all of the oil leaked out.I Half blame him he should’ve stopped. I always used frames back then and I stopped after that. That motor was toast.

Champion is the biggest OEM filter maker that I am aware of...

you call Mobil for info on their Mobil One filter, they route you to Champion customer service.

although it is much messier, do the same with filters, after they have been ran for however long your run your oil before changing it..

if it was pointed out how much crap a Fram is, you ought to see what it looks like when you cut one apart after being in service for 5K or more..
That cardboard media, comes out like mush that had been ran thru a blender...

anything cheap like Fram's media, you can attribute that to the accountant dept.. bean counters...

Last filter I did that to, over at the local CC automotive dept, was a Mobil One filter off my wife's Camry, that had been ran 20K with both the oil and the filter...
oil analysis came back still useable... ( Mobil One 0w20 .. she drives mainly just around town)... the Mobil One filter had no brreakdown of anything like the Fram filter did....the filter media was dirty, but it still held its structural integrity, as did the other parts of the filters...

and if you think a Napa Gold is heavy, compare its weight to a Mobil One filter...which are 10 bucks at Walmart... for ALL of them they carry... even those huge suckers for a Dodge or Ford diesel....they claim good for up to 20,000 miles...running them that long, has verified that for me thru oil analysis..

Napa Golds, which I was running before, seemed to be wearing out at about 10K.... which is still pretty darn good...

for low cost filters that I have taken apart, Walmarts seem to be the best one out there... at 5K they are still holding tough...and were surprisingly in workable shape after 10K, that I tested on my old 93 Camry.. if you are a cheapskate, that is the best value for your $3,00.....

Ford filters are made by Puralator.. which I have ran a bunch of those in my time... and have always done a good job..back in my younger days when I ran the filter 10K, but changed the oil every 5 K....

Nowadays, its Mobil One filters at Walmart for $10 unless something changes.....

Early 80s, I had a VW Dasher Wagon with a Diesel in it... they ran high oil pressure...I had that happen a couple of times on that engine, right after I changed the oil, pressure was high enough it would effect the structural integrity of the filter right off.... but that is back in the days that I thought a filter is a filter..
so always bought the cheapest or what was on sale...

That Dasher taught me that wasn't such a bright idea...started buy filters meant for the diesel, instead of a Ford filter, which would screw right on and were usually cheaper....

We have all seen the cutaway displays. Is more paper a better filter?

I use WIX in the pick up trucks, GMC and Toyota. Mobil 1 filter on the 40 year old Ford 5600 tractor. My wife bought a Toyota Highlander 4 cylinder and that thing has a cartridge filter that you have to drain and then take the plastic cover off of. I could shoot the Jap that designed that. I bought a metal cover for the next time I change oil. The plastic ears used to unscrew the cap are all boogered up and I'm going to have to work to get it off next oil change.
As to the 5600 tractor. I got it overhauled and it obviously has more compression. It starts easier in cold weather and has more power. I've been using 15W40 Rotella in it and the oil pressure on start up is 80. If I run it 30-45 minutes it drops back but never under 55 if it is throttled up. Yesterday I changed the oil and used Rotella 10W30 thinking it may flow better. Is 80 to high for a cold engine? When it was worn out naturally i guess the pressure was lower. Is 10W30 ok in an older Ford tractor? We used to use straight 30W.

One word non ethanol sta-bil.

Where do you get those?

I work the counter at the local NAPA store. The Pro Select is not the same filter as the NAPA Gold. Different filter media. Having said that, I have run nothing but the Pro Select on a 1995 K 1500 with a 4.3 engine; It has 301,000 on it and still runs good and carries 50 psi of oil pressure when running down the road. Carries 20-25 psi when idling at a stop light. So I think it is a pretty good filter for the money. The Pro Select is about all the local garages use for oil changes unless it is diesel of any kind. Here's a heads up. The local stores all have a farm account that takes about 40 percent of the out the door price of oil filters. Our farm account is called Johnny Cash Farms. I don't know about the stores in other areas but is worth asking about. It also takes some money of the cost of batteries. Those fuggers are getting pricey now days. Ya didn't hear it from me.....Just Sayin.

Speaking of (cartridge)filters...


After battling a mudded up now frozen iced up frame mounted fuel filter on a '03 F350 I recently ordered a set of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Motivx-Tools...mp;psc=1&refRID=S4PHT0A4PDMAXTV50KX1

Yet the oil loonies on The Oil Guy's website rave about the Fram Synthetic filter. Pennzoil Synthetic oil too. They must be a bunch of buffoons.

I’ve oft been told there is wisdom to be found in the BITOG forums, but it appears to me to be like our own Optics forum on steroids: rife with rabid opinions, and short on evidence.

Just my $.02.

FC

Another heads up, every spring and fall the local NAPA stores have a NAPA Gold filter sale that takes a little over 50% off the cost of Gold filter line. That includes oil, air, hydraulic and fuel filters. The local farmers, garages and industrial users take advantage of it. Your local stores may or may not do this.

Yep, we stock up every spring at the local parts store oil and filter sale.

Barrel or two of oil, 20-30 various filters, it adds up to a good savings of money.

AC Delcos on my Silverado; supposedly there is some magic fairy dust oil pressure difference that make the Delcos the only filter suitable for modern GM truck engines. Supposedly. Probably a bunch of hooey. But Delco filters are cheap enough, I bought a case of them when I bought the truck.

Oh the good old days of a $15.00 dollar oil change. Now I have to use a Mopar OEM high pressure oil filter and 0w-40 full syn Penzoil only oil, 7 quarts. Total cost >$75.00.

Little known fact.


The after market oil filters for a 6.0 Ford use a one time only filter cap.

Save your old cap if you ever plan on going back to Motorcraft filters.


I almost bought a fancy aftermarket oil filter cap but it was too much $$$.



And use 5w-40 year round in those POS's.

15 quarts.

I don't care how good they may be...

after having crap products from both Fram and Pennzoil.. I wouldn't use anything with their name on the side, regardless of how good that product may be..
there are other alternatives just as good, from more trustworthy names...

NAPA Gold

Ran 1540 Rotella conventional for the first hundred thousand approximately then switch to 540 synthetic which I noticed a huge difference in cold weather starting. I just did my first oil change with 1540 Rotella fully synthetic, I’ll send out a oil sample to Blackstone and see how this stuff holds up. I mainly run Motorcraft filters throughout the truck, occasionally NAPA.

Napa gold on all of mine!

Walmart has the cheapest oil prices by far so that’s where I’m usually buying it. Unfortunately they only seem to carry Fram filters and I’m not putting those on anything so I either swing by the Cummins dealer for a fleet guard stratopore for my 99 dodge diesel or the Toyota dealer for an OEM filter since everything else I own is Toyota. Wix/Napa/Carquest are all the same filter but I can get out of the dealership quicker and just as cheap as an auto parts store so I just use the Toyota ones.

The Walmart here carries a number of different brands besides Fram. Mobile 1, Motorcraft, Mopar, K&N, and others. Wix and some others are available online with a 2 day delivery to the store.

The Walmarts here seem to be about 95% Fram. I think the Motorcraft and Mopars are just for ford and dodge, and I don't really like the idea of K&N. They might be perfectly good but I don't like their bogus claims of increased horsepower from their oiled air filters that they used to push so hard, and they let in a lot of dirt so I view K&N as kind of a snake oil pushing company. The Napa, Wix, and Carquest filters are all the same, good filters but I always seem to get behind the guy that wants a distributor cap for a 1932 Packard when I go into an auto parts store so it ends up taking me 45 minutes to walk out with an oil filter. I find it easier to just hit the Toyota dealership parts counter when I'm driving by and buy enough filters for the next few changes, they've usually got them stacked up behind the counter for my Camry and Tundra, they're about $5 each and I trust they're a quality filter unlike some of the others.

Buy a Toyota, use Toyota filters, what ever oil yo uh like and stop worrying about such non sense.

Fleetguard only in my '06 Cummins diesel.
Honda OEM in my Pilot, Accord, and Civic.

Napa platinum filters, they got em on sale in the spring for 1/2 off.

Fram is garbage. I also believe CAT wont warranty anything with Baldwins on it. For my retired cop car that serves me well and gets me back and forth to work like an anvil Motorcraft only. Anything but Motorcraft and it knocks for half a second on startup. For my pickup Napa gold only. The wife's lease car. The cheapest damn oil filter I can find. As far as oil. Wal-mart sells Mobil 1 for $22 for 5 quarts here so everything has it in it from the lawn mower to the Crown Vic. i keep 4 or 5 jugs of it on hand at all times in 2 flavors.

NAPA Platinum or Gold. Wix makes them.

Wix makes fantastic filters.

When I had the F150 I'd run Motorcraft. Local parts store had them cheap.

I ordered a genuine Toyota filter from Ebay for 2/3 the Amazon price. At the price, I have to wonder if it's a Chinese fake.

Off the subject.
But I have heard alot of aftermarket "performance" air filters with oils or chems in em can fugg up MAF sensors.
Specially the washable ones with oil/ special chem additives your supposed to apply into them.
Dont know how many used vehicles I have popped the hood on and find some K&N , spectre or some such air filter installed out their in the open sitting in the bottom of an air box.
Top cover of the air box gone or modified and defeating the purpose of the cold air intake design from the tube intake going to the front grill.
Basically sucking in hot engine air.
That probably does great things eventually to all the sensors in modern engines.

Suppose the Vin diesel fast and furious air filter factor overcomes all that.

Sometimes just returning a used vehicle back to OEM spec schitt and tossing the Vin diesel pipe dream schitt away a previous owner put in it is the best course of action to take to restore performance.
Junkyard OEM schitt has worked for me many times to unfugg schit a previous owner has done with their vision of super vehicle.

LOL!!!

I understand what is shown in the video, but I got my first truck 30 years ago. Ran fram filters and Castrol Gtx since that time in all my trucks. My first truck I sold with 160,000 miles , the next one 220,000 miles, another right at 200,000 miles, I have one now with 305,000 miles. These are not all highway miles. I’ve had a couple other trucks I sold with less miles. Never been into the motor of any of them, not none. These were Ford, Chevys, and GMC’s. I’m not defending fram or Castrol but what more could I have asked for?

The oil used to treat K and N style filters can foul MAF sensors. In addition gauze style filters are absolutely terrible for your engine..

"But I have heard alot of aftermarket "performance" air filters with oils or chems in em can fugg up MAF sensors."

That's an old wives tale. I've had a couple of K&N air filters and never had a problem. You just have to follow the instructions for cleaning and oiling them.

Just you wait - it's only a matter of time.

Yep.

It might amaze people that certain OEM filters would be judged as "junk" compared to the more expensive aftermarket alternatives, but they are actually essential to the design of the air, oil, cooling or whatever system on the vehicle, especially on newer vehicles.

More expensive isn't always better and sometimes ruins perfectly good [bleep]. Believe me, the manufacturers know their good stuff and their junk. Hell, just wiper blades can throw a big spender/premium aftermarket user into a tizzy.

I can’t imagine you’ll ever see the difference on a reasonably maintained vehicle.

Light the torches! Grab the pitchforks! Ready the stocks (if not the stake)!

I just bought an oil filter socket for a Mopar high pressure filter (76 x14). I was surprised at how many choices there are. I found that one filter had several drive configurations based on the manufacture. I had to take the tool out to my vehicle and fit it on the OEM filter.