Trying to help out a friend at Hunt Camp. He Has a Ruger 77 Mark II 300 WSM, and the trigger is factory original, and must be 6-8 lb. pull.
I haven't checked it yet but it's a hard pull trigger.
What have you guy's used to replace yours with!
Thanks in advance.
HS 58

I have replaced two with a Timney trigger. I polished the factory trigger where the sear contacts it and installed the aftermarket sear and spring and got a great trigger both times with far less work than fitting the trigger.

Interesting. i
I see there's a few replacement triggers offered. Timney being one of them.
Thanks
HS 58

This is how I did mine. Just a little polishing and a slight chamfer with an oil stone is all that is needed to get an excellent trigger pull:

With that being said. what do you think your trigger pull was when finished?

HS 58

I have a Timney kicking around for a mark 2...light stoning did the same thing as dropping the Timney in. Ended up a little over 3 lbs.

Be careful following that diagram to the letter. I find that it is a bit too much. I'll file, stone and polish, but not take quite as much material. Also a lighter spring helps with pull weight. The way I do them leaves more sear engagement, which makes it safer than the diagram shown. I shoot for a 2.5 pound pull weight, with very minimal creep. After polishing the sear engagement it is also very smooth. I don't know how many guys actually have the proper tools to measure the notch depth. I don't take as much off the trigger or sear, so be warned.. Always test afterwards too. I've seen some guys take too much and you can actually push the cocking piece forward with your thumb.. You definitely don't want that, as that is an unsafe condition. If you don't feel confident in doing it right, take it to a smith.

I totally agree BSA!
That's why I'm taking my time with this and going to make the right choice. Cautioning on the side of error leaving material on is great advice if I go that way.
I appreciate all the comments, and advice.
Thanks,
HS 58

My trigger pull measures 2 lbs 8 oz. I also tried a reduced power trigger spring but it was too light.

It's very easy to remove the trigger to work on it. I would polish first, reassemble and check the pull. Chamfer and adjust angle if needed.

I really appreciate all the good advice and view points here.
I read on a forum last night searching for as much info, and working knowledgeable opinions, as possible,
and one gentleman exclaimed that he would lean towards replacement, (Timney), verses stoning the original, because the Timney could withstand thousands of more rounds
vs. Stoning and possibly only able to last until 500-1000 rounds.
I'm having a hard time swallowing that one!
I like hearing from actual shooters who have done it and use and test their work through shooting and Hunting, as I do.
I strongly agree as I said earlier, with BSA, to be careful in not taking too much material off!
The Illustration above that UA, posted is very good to help understand, as the trigger is easily accessible, and I'm confident in my workmanship,
and my ability to test it safely afterwards, as it's very important to do the workmanship correctly.
I did read where Ruger's first Model 77's had adjustable triggers, but went with this harder pull trigger on their Mark II, Rifles do to frivolous Lawsuits,
and such.

HS 58

I like the Mark II trigger, have done the trigger work on many of them to get a crisp pull of close to 3#. I only had one in which I went too far, so I installed a Timney. Worth doing, but I’d be ready to stop as you approach 3#.

Timney, a little work cutting in that notch but wasnt that bad.

More Great info Guy's.

HS 58

Good luck with it man. I hear you about those triggers. My first Ruger m77 mkII I bought was a 300wm. I bought it for elk hunting and I had nightmares about not being able to pull the freaking trigger when a big bull showed up. That is when you know the trigger is horrible. If I remember right, it had an 8 pound pull!!!! I still have that rifle and it is a sweetheart now. The last one I did was a few months back on a nice little stainless 300RSAUM. I let my buddy shoot it and he wanted to buy it on the spot. He's on the local SWAT team, so he knows what a good trigger feels like.. ha ha.. Don't freak out if you take too much material off, you can find good factory trigger and sear sets on ebay for less than $40. Don't ask me how I know that. I think the last ones I bought were $25.00.. Also remember the lighter spring trick. Do that first and check pull weight. Some only need a very minimal amount of polishing to get you down to where you want. However, It sounds like your buddies is like my first one. It may need more stoning and polishing than others...

Thanks again, BSA, I'm on it!

HS 58

Got a lighter Spring coming, and will stone a little off and test from there.

HS 58

I had one I overdid on polishing it down.. so I replaced with a Dayton Traister..Turned out pretty darn good 3 pounds or so.

That's good to know

Got a lighter spring, and just a light stoning, after checking the pull by installing the Spring first, and Walla.
Very happy with the outcome, and the cost of about $12 Bucks.
Called my Buddy and he's on his way over, to pick it up.
About a 2 1/2- 3 lb. pull now, and less than 1/2 of what it was before!

Thanks again Guy's!!!

HS 58

Very good. That's how I like them. Sometimes you don't get that lucky, but you always hope it's that easy. Glad to hear you didn't have to take too much material off, keeping it safe. Your buddy is going to love it..

Thanks BSA, You've been help full.
I agree. I didn't want to take to much off either.
It's easy enough to place the spring and check it, and the work it, and re check it.
The old saying Caution on the side of error comes to mind.
The illustration, UncleAlps put up was a great help analyzing ahead of time, and making my decision on what to do.
Thanks to all the other great recommendations and suggestions that helped me come to my decision for our friend.
He's extremely happy that it only cost the $12 Bucks vs. a newer trigger cost no matter what the choice.
It was a nice Christmas present fixing it for the Young Man. We talk about keeping the Younger Generation into Hunting.
There's always a way to try.

Respectfully,

HS 58

Good job. Wish I had those instructions when I bought my first 77 Mk II. I lived with that trigger over 20 years before finally fixing it. What a difference.

Good point!

My first Ruger m77 mkII I bought was a 300wm.

Same here and I went to far getting the trigger weight down lesson learned.

Where did you get your lighter spring from? I called our local gunsmith and he wants $100 for me to bring my rifle in and cut part of the spring and then polish everything up for me and maybe alter the sear. I had just left him a message that I just needed a lighter spring and I would put it in myself, but of course he wants to make money I assume. I also called Brownells and they don't have a spring neither. Waiting for MidwayUSA to get back to me.

This is an option:

www.erniethegunsmith.com

This is your best option. Some stoning of the trigger will help a lot also.

Try your local Ace Hardware. They have springs of similar size, but the coils are thinner and provide a lighter pull weight, when cut to the appropriate length and installed. I can't remember, but I believe the ones I buy are 1/4" and the coil wire diameter is .023". Cut to about 1 1/4" or there abouts and try it. The springs at Ace are like 2" or 3" long and you can cut to the desired length.


Sorry, but that is not his best option.

I'd prefer that those who handle firearms around me would choose to install the $8.00, purpose-made trigger spring from the professional gunsmith. I just installed one in a Ruger Hawkeye and it's a pretty good trigger with no other modification.

Yup. This is my first step as well.


Do you honestly think that spring knows that it is in a rifle?