I recently purchased this rifle. Carl Gustav in, of course, 6.5x55. I am hoping to set it up and give it to an 18 year old grand daughter.

The question is: Can the bolt be slicked up for less than the cost of a new budget rifle?

Is there anything I, as a shade tree mechanic, can do to make it stop binding on open and close?

I have scrubbed the action rails with BC gun scrubber and a toothbrush, then added Rem oil. It helped just a little bit.


We won't mention the three hours, bore cleaner, brushes, and patches it took to remove the black from the bore. Not a sign of Copper though.

It's a cock on close action. They don't feel as slick as the 98's that are cock on open actions.
They're was a couple of cock on open kits that's not that hard to install.

Two problems can cause this. The first is a bolt handle alteration which makes the bolt handle too long. This makes the bolt want to bind. The second problem is a bolt and receiver which are, (a) a little bit soft and, (b) of about the same hardness. The cure? Nitriding could work. GD

It would behoove you to first determine exactly what is causing the binding. Start with removing the striker assembly. As was stated, these are cock on close so will require force to fully close. However, with the striker removed, you can better feel where the binding occurs. Often, it is due to the extractor rubbing. But, you won't know til you diagnose thoroughly.

Thank you for the respomses.

Yes, I am familiar with cock on close actions, as in the Enfield Mk IV.

This action binds in the back half of the stroke.

Greydog, thanks again. I Am sure nitriding would cost as much as a new synrhetic Vanguard or Howa. I bought the rifle primarily for a nostalgic longing for the Redfield wideview acutrac on top. So there is no sentimental attachment.

I will give the girl something else that will not cause her frustration.

Nitriding won't do squat if you have an extractor binding or extractor collar. It ain't that hard to diagnose. If it is, then, yes, a newer budget rifle may be the better option.

There is no trouble telling where the bind occurs.

It in the first two inches of bolt travel, at the rear of action. 2/3 open position. It binds (locks up hard) on opening and closing strokes. Far from the position where compression of the striker spring begins.

Now, exactly which part of the bolt is doing the binding, is another question.

At this point, I think the old girl is headed for the dumpster. Figuratively speaking.

Anybody need a tupperware stock to fit a 96? Or scope bases? Weaver style.

For an easy first stage extractor check, color it with a marker, then see what scratches off.

Bruce

This is exactly what I would expect with the condition I described; similar metals showing an affinity for themselves. When this occurs, the harder you push, the harder it sticks. I mention nitriding because it CAN help in this situation. However, I readily admit, it isn't practical. It would truly cost more than the benefit is worth. The day of viability for the old military rifles, as a sporter, is kind of past. GD

I played with it a bit this evening. The bolt slides beautifully, if you push it forward straight from the back of the bolt.

I still have an old bottle of "Friction Block" PTFE. It was sold a few decades ago as a bore treatment.

I figured what the hell. It can't hurt. It seems to have slicked it up a little.

I already have 100 rounds loaded. I will get it on the bench and see if it is shootable at all.

If not, I know where a cutting torch is.

Thanks again for the advice.

You mentioned a scope is mounted, have you checked the screw, screws, in the bridge to assure they are not projecting into the bolt movement area?
F01

I've a lot of work with Swedish Mausers and your problem "sounds" like a bent extractor to me.

Did you guys read the part where he said it works fine if the bolt is pushed straight from the rear? This is because, unless there is pressure applied that pushes the bolt to the side, it doesn't bind. I have seen this same issue in many actions, with stainless steel actions often being the worst offenders. One pre-64 model 70 would stick so hard, I swear, you could have broken the handle off trying to move it forward. Push straight from the rear though, and it would slide effortlessly. You could polish this until the cows came home (though what cows might have to do with it, I can't say) and it would make no difference. What would make a difference, was making one piece significantly harder than the other. GD

IdahoShooter, did that rifle come from Lewiston?

Yes sir. Read the whole thing. Suggesting things that can and do happen. Pushing the bolt straight in means gravity directs the pressure straight down. Using the bolt handle can shift the pressure side to side and also up. I have seen screws either protruding or rough enough to bind in that circumstance. Yes I also agree it can be galling due to metal similarities in the sliding surfaces.
I am sure Mr. ID Shooter can figure it out and act accordingly.
Best,
F01

Not recently. I know not its history beyond the last few months.

Ace is the place, to get White Lithium grease. Over the years, a synthetic grease has solved many a sticky, similar metals situation.
However a 96 bolt shroud if slightly twisted, out of battery, will hang up in the action pretty good.
Also if you change the trigger out and say put in a new Timney trigger, without a recess cut in the action in front of the sear, the trigger group sear can not move forward, just an hair, as the bolt closes and will hang the bolt up, frequently.
I have more than a few 96s. The last Timney trigger swap required a 1/8" deep relief cut in the front of the trigger sear hole with a chain saw sharpening stone. Once done the action was slick.

It still has the looong pull two stage military trigger.

Are you certain that you are not rubing on a screw? Take it out of the stock and try working the bolt without the bottom metal attached.

I have seen screws from sights and scope mounts bind bolts. Also you might be binding the action with one of the action screws. That is why I'd asked you if you have tried it sans magazine assembly. Out of the stock.

It would seem like a major case of dumbass to load 100 rounds for a rifle whose operation you question, and that you do not know how to modify... if necessary. I have barreld up a half dozen 96 actions. If it were in my hands I could probably tell you your problem very quickly.