I've put three coats of tru-oil on my stock. It looks like it has finally quit soaking in. I'd like to sand it smooth and apply one last thin, smooth coat and then buff with 600 grit paper. Does this sound right? I'm trying for a low gloss finish.

I'm on coat #2. I applied the first coat, then wet-sanded in the second, will probably wet-sand the third as well, then apply light coats until I'm done. I plan on using stock sheen & conditioner for a low gloss.

you must have an exceptional piece of wood if it has quit soaking up the oil and the pores are filled enough for the final sand and buff after only three coats.

Corelokt: I did 3 sealing coats and then about a dozen thin coats before the pores filled on my last stock. I wanted a little depth and shine on mine and quit after coat # 18. For a dull but smooth finish I could have quit at about 14 coats. I do thin applications, hand rubbing until the stock feels almost dry. On the last few coats, 3 to 4 drops of oil was all that was needed to coat the entire stock.

If one is going with thicker applications, give each coat about a week of drying time. Ones sand paper should generate a fine dust only. If it gums up on sanding, ones surface is not truly dry. I went a minimum of 5 days between my last applications.

About a year ago I acquired a Shiloh and was informed that they sand in their finish. I've not done that, but think one could get the pores filled with 3 or 4 coats of fine sanding. It has a dull sheen and also feels like it's quite durable. I'll likely give it try on my next stock build.

Yeah, I screwed it. I sanded to soon and it gummed. I had stained it dark walnut and applied three coats of tru-oil before any sanding. Wood is not my favorite medium, that's for sure. I need to watch someone do one and actually see it done, not just read about it. I wish I knew of a quick and easy method to spray or apply a nice matte finish.

Sanding in the finish on a stained stock will generally lead to cutting through the stain. I thin truoil and if you get some lint free paper napkins, something like a fast food napkin, and wipe off finish after you apply it and before it's too tacky it will leave a more matte looking finish.

I removed finish from 25+ year old Remington stock with Citristrip. There was a stain in the finish, left an orangish color on some spots. As I steamed out some dents, I noticed the stain will soak into cotton cleaning patches I was using, so I did the whole stock.

I'm on coat #4. First was a soak coat. Last 3 have been sanded in w/ 320 b/w each. I think I'm done w/ sanding in, now I can apply finish coats.

The stock looks 1000X better than what I started with and I'm not done. There are some nice black ribbons in the walnut that have been brought out, and the depth and glow have already started. This looked like a boring piece of walnut before I started.

Not sure how it would react with True-Oil but I've used unthinned Permalyn finish (not the sealer) through my airbrush with good results. Soft matte, almost pebble grain appearance.

I allow the last handrubbed coat to tack and then spray it from about 10-12 inches away.

After sanding finish, I soak the stock in 50-50 diluted with thinner True Oil, until all the dry spots shine, just slop it on as much as it will take, wipe it off lightly..Then hang it up for at least 3 weeks...Then wet sand in small circles with 220 grit, apply another coat and let stand for at least 24 hours, wet sand with 320 grit, let stand 24 and wet sand with 400 grit on up to 600 or even 800 grit if you wish, depending on type of finish you want....wait about a week and polish with a mix of True oil and pumice stone on a soft pad...That is a quick finish and it will serve you well..The secret in any finish is not the product but the application...

A high gloss finish is more weather proof than an in the wood finish, but an in the wood finish is nicer IMO..It's a trade off at any rate.