When re-finishing a stock do you guys use something to fill the pores before applying oil?
If the finish has been removed or the pores exposed,
it will provide a better overall finish to the stock
if you use filler on it.
I haven't posted much here on this site, but, I've
finished many and restocked many firearms.
So, in that case I always use a filler and at times
use the stocks own wood sanding dust to fill the pores
with.
One very good filler I have used and recommend and
also very glad it is still available, is, from Midway.
Art's Stock Filler. It is actually the old Herters
stock filler formula and had good color and very easy
to use for filling. I had used that filler a lot back
in the Herters days. You can buy it in clear, French Red
or Walnut colors.
Don
I have found that if you use 400 or 600 grit wet/dry paper and the finish you are to use on the stock, you can sand the wood for a littel bit. The grit takes some wood off and it combines with the finish and makes light paste that fills the pores.After sanding, lightly wipe and let dry over night.Repeat as required Works very well. Not my idea as guy on another forum put me on to it
Art's French Red liquid is the best filler I have ever used. I used it back in the 60s when Herter's sold it. Now, if only they would sell the Leige finish it would make a superb stock. Thanks...Bill.
Regardless of the finish I always wet sand at least 3 coats fo True oil clear sealer into a stock, or until every pore is filled..then I finish the stock with Brownells Gun-Save-R spray on low gloss finish, and I wet sand that in also..the final finish will be a egg shell or high gloss, whichever I desire..
I might add that I soak the 320 grt. finished stock in True Oil until it shines (no dull spots) then I hang it for a month or more to cure, then start the wet sanding and finish..A trick taught to my by a famous gunstock maker, and it works.
I've only done one walnut stock, and used no filler at all. Once you have the finish off, use water and wet/dry sand paper to sand it a few times to raise the gain and get that out of the way. After that use the oil and wet/dry sandpaper to sand/polish/oil the stock. Let dry for about 24 hours between applications. Just keep doing it until you have worked up to 600 grit paper and you are happy with the finish (or tired of doing it!). The oil and sawdust fill the pores and you end up with a beatiful finish. This may be too slow for someone doing it on a professional basis however. I would not want to pay someone for the hours I put into mine.
Ron
Im doing a Remington 510 stock, what color of Arts should I get? I dont want any color added to the stock if possiable.
There is a wood workers store in my home town that sells some kind of filler, not Art's, do you guys think it really matters what brand?
If I dont like the look of the filler can I re-strip and get the stuff out of the pores?
Thanks for the help
PP
One popular commercial filler is Behlen's Pore-O-Pack. It is an excellent filler for open grain wood, but is not the best for gunstocks because the main ingredient is silica (sand) powder.
This makes it very hard on checkering tools unless you use carbide.
I use the sanded-in method as several above have mentioned and it works to perfection if you have the patience.
http://www.woodworking.org/WC/GArchive99/1_20waltcunfin.htmlRWO