First post over here and let me state upfront that I wouldn't try to build one myself, BUT... I have the chance to buy 2 old Eddystones, one's been sporterized the other has not. The one that has not been converted is missing the for-stock in front of the rear barrel band. basically it's in rough shape and not a collector, but the action looks good.

I'm wondering what caliber choices I could go with if I were to have one built on this action based on the bolt head size? Also, what's an average cost to have a barrel mated to an action (labor)? I realize barrel prices are all over the place and I haven't thought about stocks, but I thought it might be neat to save this old action. I'm trying to justify the money in my mind.

I've made them into 30-06 custom and 300 Win Mag. They are very strong actions and very, very hard....machining requires good carbide to open up the bolt face and drilling and tapping for scopes is no picnic either.

The other issue is cocking on closing....I converted mine to cock on opening with a kit purchased from Brownells, I think. I don't know if it's still available or not. That sure made the bolt work smooth though.

That said, if I had to do it all over again...I'd probably opt for something else.

But, if it's something you'd like to try...I wouldn't stand in your way.

As has been discussed in other forums, there is really no difference in cock on open/close when hunting is concerned.

Each has his own preference, but in shooting a N05 Jungle Carbine, and a Mauser 98 at bowling pins at 100 yards, I can honestly tell you I have no preference either way.

The eddystones work well with just about any mid range 30-06 based cartrige.

For a basic hunting rig, get a Boyds classic in regular walnut, and a 24" F34 contour Adams and Bennett 30-06 barrel, and you'll be sitting pretty with a drill and tap for scope mounts.

You can put as much money as you want into them though. Grade xxx walnut, and a Hart, Shilen, Pac-nor tube, VX series loopy or zeiss, kahles etc.

Putting a barrel on can start as low as $75, and work well over $150. It all depends on machine work required. If it is fully threaded and short chambered it will be slightly cheaper on average. If it is a rinished blank and requires threading, crown work, etc etc, your cost goes up.

I have been thinking of building one into a 9.3 variant, but I can't bring myself to tear mine apart. I'll have to find a beater first.

Although the bolt face would need to be opened, a .375 H&H works well. I have one that has had a lot of work done on it - magazine/floorplate flattened, cock on opening, ears milled off and drilled/tapped with a scope, a sporter stock (Fajen? Bishop?) but with the original barrel still on it with a ramp front sight.

I have thought about having a .375 or even a .416 made on it.

action is supposed to be one of the strongest, albeit a little heavy.

Disagree on that point. I hate having the bolt hang up just a bit and then have the spring loaded bolt fly open. If live, it ejects the cartridge 10' away...if carrying empty, there's the potential for dirt and debris....But to each his own.

Thanks for the info. I was actually thinking about going to a small(er) round like a 243/308 or something like that. I realize these are considered long actions but is that a huge problem?

It all depends on if you're paying attention or not. Yeah, I can flick the No5 open and it'll throw the bolt back and spit the round out. I can also ease the bolt open.

I like the cock on closing as there is less effort to open the action when you've selected a specimen for harvesting. The way I cycle the bolt, there is minimal if almost no effort to roll my wrist over and chamber the round.

Again, it's all personal preference as to how each person works an action.

Now to the next question

Putting something like a .308 in an action like that can be done. On my mauser, I left it, but most people will fashion a block to go in the rear of the magazine well to take up the slack space and fashion a new follower (Read more cost).

If you want a .308 based cartridge, you're better off going with an intermediate length Mauser (Yugo 24/47). It's a tad shorter than a standard M98 action and works great for building .308's. It is already cock on opening (if that's what you wish), and scope bases are much easier to find and drill and tap for.

You can always tone down the loads of a 30-06 as well.

going to be damn heavy gun if its in 243.....have one made into a 338-06 and would be alot happier if it was a pound lighter but with this action it aint possible.....if your looking for a 308 based round i would look for a different action.....

as for the cock on closing/opening thing doesnt bug me, have 3 guns i can use for hunting that are cock on closing and a couple cock on opening....for a hunting gun i switch back and forth and dont notice anything....would hate cock on closing for a dedicated target or prairie dog gun that was mainly going to be shot off a rest....shooting off hand i truly dont notice the difference between the two....dont prefer either just really do not notice when i switch from one to the other....

I find it hard to use cock on closing on the sandbags as it pushes the rifle around in the bags. With a well build open cocker, it is alot easier to move the rifle less.

thanks again. I offered the guy a Benjarmin for the sporterized one. I'm thinking I'll offer another $50 for the beater. that way if it sits on the shelf for a few years it's no big deal. It's better than letting him toss it.

I started with a 1917 as my first centerfire rifle, so I "grew up on" the cock on closing feature. I actually found it wierd to have the bolt so hard to open on other actions. A lot of people say they prefer the cock on close versus on opening for a dangerous game rifle. I have no such opinion, never having hunted dangerous game.

$150 for 2 of em is a good deal. Get some surp 30-06 and play with em till you figure it out.

They may just shoot very well. The Enfield style rifling wears well.Two P-17s and a P-14 did for me. I shot the P-14 every range day with battle sights until I got adjutable iron sights for it.I soon changed the stock,though,to a Boyds JRS.

I can't see using the big heavy action unless you're building something big. My first 458 lott was built on an enfield, and my 500 Jeffrey is built on an enfield.

The cock on closing never bothered me, but the dogleg bolt has to go on a rifle with heavy recoil, as it will hit your fingers.

thats my take on them......will likely turn my 338-06 into something else down the line, 416 Ruger or Taylor......maybe a 458 Win.....and i agree that bolt handle is gonna rap the knuckles good under heavy recoil.....course at 9.5 pound ready to hunt my 338-06 dont recoil

1917 Eddystone actions=HEAVY.
But, there aren't many other flies on that action. Best safety design ever.
I had one in a custom 30-06, and when I was in my 20's and 30's didn't think too much about how heavy the rifle was.

Just this past week we took in an old Remington Model 30 in 06. Nice old rifle, but it had been re-blued (should have seen that receiver color!!!!)and the stock cut down, but the bore was very nice. Remington modified all their old M17 surplus actions into sporting tifles. Also see the Remington Model 720!

The only real problem I've ever run into with the M17 action (aside from it's robustness) is sometimes the ejector can be a bit mushy. The ejector spring is prone to breakage. If one experiences this problem, I believe that several places (like Numrich) offer a coil spring ejector that can be used to replace the old flat spring model. Anyone else encounter this situation???

Bob

mine seems to do well, but I'll keep an eye on it.

I also like the safety design.

Hot loads in the 30-06 don't bother either as the thing is so clunky. If you want to hump it over the hills and through the trees like the men of 90+ years ago (albeit without the mustard gas, explosions, and bullets whizzing by), go right ahead .

I love reading about the old 1917's becasue I got one when I was 13 years old. I loved that rifle even though it was very heavy (around 11 pounds) because it had a bull barrel and the action is built like a tank. I shoot left handed and liked the big dog leg bolt because it made it easier to operate. I didn't mind the cock on closing as many guys don't. I've researched this and many guys prefer this feature because the guns (modified 1917's) with the cock on opening are known to have some issues regarding safety. Some have fired when the safety lever is pushed forward because of the extra heavy spring you have to use when you convert it and also you have to be careful to time the safety and the trigger sear when you put the speed lock kit in. Seems like a big hassle to me for the little bennifit you get. Yes I will agree that the bolt is easier to close when it is converted to cock on open, but I don't think you will ever notice when you are out hunting. As far as using the action for such small calibers, I think that is like sacrilege. The action is BIG and heavy, you can use cartridges that require stove pipe for casing a dump truck for the powder and a wheelbarro full of lead for load data. The ejector spring will break on you if it is not already broken. Don't buy one from numrich or any other place. I've got some ball point pens around here missing the coil springs, but my m1917's always eject with ease.

The ejector leaf spring is always been an issue,has been since they were built. If you are buying a Timmey trigger from Numrich get one ejector kit,then you can do the other rifle with a Dremmel and coil spring.

With Eddystones,the barrels were installed with a machine super tight. Sometimes the receivers were cracked,more often when the barrels were removed without a relief cut.So check for cracks.Dye,magnaflux,gasoline,X-ray.

The barrels have square threads,so the gunsmith has to have some machinist skills to rebarrel.

Downwind, I decided to see how the junker would clean up before settling on a rebarrel. Because the other one is already sporterized, I thought it might be nice to restore this to battle rifle status. This junker has a Winchester barrel on a Eddystone receiver. does that mean it was a re-issue during WWII? Can you explain what you are talking about as far as looking for cracks? It's Greek to me.

I put a cork on the muzzle and filled with Hoppe's and let it sit for a couple hours. Then I scrubbed with a brass brush and dry patched. It's now filled up with Hoppe's again. I expect I will need to do this 1/2 a dozen times. The first run was solid rust.

One more thing - I went looking for a replacement stock. I tried that Numrich, but IMO their website sucks. I had 2 people tell me I could find a stock there but I'll be dammed if I can figure out how, and I work in IT so it's not my first rodeo. I understand they have a parts catolog but it seems to be sold out. I'm also going to be looking for a front barrel band so if anyone has a lead on either I would appreciate a PM.

One thing, don't put a knurled boltknob on it if you leave it the way it came.
It will wear a hole in the palm of your hand,if you do a lot of fast shooting.

to look for cracks set the action in gasoline for a lil while, take it out and watch it evaporate closely, if there are cracks those spots will take alot longer to evaporate than the other areas around it due to the cracks holding the gas a lil longer than the normal metal surface.....

Between the wars, to keep the armorers busy,they rebuilt M-17s,so finding one with matching parts is very rare. But because they were built to tolerances for parts interchangablity,they were Americian built after all,it didn't cause any problems.

Cracks,your local engine rebuilder should have the equipment. The simplest one uses a dye that penetrates the crack,then it's developed,and shows up under black light.Gasoline penetrates then bleeds back,but isn't all that reliable. Magnaflux uses magnatism,the iron filings stick at the crack.

Boyd's has military wood,I think.Check Springfield Sporters,too.They are nice to deal with.They had the SMLE MK #1 front posts for my P-14 so I could adjust height for the 200yd rear battle sight.P-14s and M-17s are almost the same.

Wipe-Out cleaner saves all that scrubbing.

The iron sights are fun to use,but the steel butt plate isn't.So shooting a full military dress is a pain.

Model 1917s were all originally blued in WWI but many (most) were refurbished for issue in WWII. This refurbishing included parts switching and parkerizing. Hope this might help. By the way, $150 for them is a steal. For rebarreling, you can fit just about the biggest round you can think of in one. A-Square used these actions to build their rifles. Great for big magnum rounds.

I dimly remember reading a treatise a long time ago concerning the the utility of the 1917's made by the different manufacturers: Remington, Winchester and Eddystone. The claim was that there were issues concerning the heat treatment of the Eddystones, that they weren't as desirable from a strength/safety standpoint as the Remingtons and Winchesters. Anybody remember that? I seem to recall it being a kind of known fact among aficianados back in the day. I do remember for a fact that the Eddystones were always priced way below the others in the gun ads back in the 60's, presumably because of that.

Remington set up the manufacturing facility in Eddystone, Pa., but it was run as a separate entity. Remington had the manufacturing experience because of the Pattern '14 contracts they filled for Britain.

Eddystones are Remington, yes?
Butch

From what I understand, two different plants, but both owned by Remington.

http://www.lowescertifiedguns.com/browseproducts/Eddystone-1917.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M1917_Enfield

They were making 6,000 M1917s a day at Eddystone plant,so it's possible that some were not perfect. But the heat treatment problems are a M1903 Springfield thing. There is nothing in Hatcher's Notes on the Enfield and heat treatment,there is a great deal on the Springfield. He considered the Enfield as the best rifle of WWI. But Eddystone recievers have cracked because of the machine over tight barrels. The Pattern rifles used nickel-steel receivers like pre-war M-70s and the real high number M1903s.There are questions about some pre-war M-70 heat treatments,too.

I had Dan Petersen re-bore my 1917 Eddystone to 9.3x62. The only problem was getting it to feed right. (it wouldn't feed round nose 06 before the re-bore) Sitka Deer helped me with the feed rails and it now feeds slick. Holds six in the magazine and shoots mostly under an inch. I did do a new trigger and cock on opening, but probably wouldn't if I had it to do over. I personally like the dog leg bolt handle as it puts the bolt handle back far enough it helps with the working speed when worked from the shoulder. With a Fajen classic stock, 1x4 Leupold, and Williams open sights it weighs 8.5lbs on the money. Just about right for a 9.3. --- Mel

the heat treatment wasnt the problem.....the issue with Eddystones comes when yah rebarrel them, the original barrels are screwed on WAY to tight but it doesnt cause an issue until you go to rebarrel one.....if your not careful about it the power it takes to unscrew that barrel can torque and crack the receiver weakening it....im told you can make relief cuts in the old barrel that will make cracking unlikely but i have only heard this from one source so am not sure of its accuracy....the barrels on the Remington and Winchester ones dont generally have this problem....

If you don't want to keep them for $150 send them my way!

$150 for the pair is a steal. I paid $100 for an Eddystone action alone.
I have a Win '17 Enfield in 375 H&H AI and am completing an Eddystone in 300 RUM.
IMO go with a big cal as the action is big and strong. If you want a 243/308 trade your action for a Mauser action. A Yugo 98 would be best for a short round like a 243 or 250-3000.