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Not a used one -

Just for rebarrel ing and blue printing, which maker and type and why.

I'm more interested in thoughts on critical feature sets and function thoughts from experienced guys than a exact model, so why tht one is important.


- why did I say "new", I'm thinking that a new one won't be beat up, and will likely be more accurate. Maybe I can get around those buy being picky and patient, not sure but I am sure it won't be an issue if I go with a good new one.

Educate the newbie with very little experience if any.

Spot
The main things I would look for was a headstock diameter of at least 1.5" or more, a low speed capability of 60rpm, a bed of at least 40" long and a geared head - not belt driven.. MT-3 tools, quick-change tool-head and a good splash-guard..

That'll give ya a start.. smile
Find the heaviest one you can afford....with rednecks numbers as a minimum.
You also might as well budget a bison chuck right now too. New scroll chucks that come on lathes a working man can afford will drive you bonkers.
Originally Posted by high_country_
You also might as well budget a bison chuck right now too. New scroll chucks that come on lathes a working man can afford will drive you bonkers.

I bought a 3 jaw adjustable chuck with both my lathes and finally went to my 4 jaw modified with 1/2 inch copper rods in the jaws for all my chambering. It's easier and faster than trying to dial in the 3 jaw adjustable.
The value of a Grizzly lathe is hard to beat.
Originally Posted by MColeman
Originally Posted by high_country_
You also might as well budget a bison chuck right now too. New scroll chucks that come on lathes a working man can afford will drive you bonkers.

I bought a 3 jaw adjustable chuck with both my lathes and finally went to my 4 jaw modified with 1/2 inch copper rods in the jaws for all my chambering. It's easier and faster than trying to dial in the 3 jaw adjustable.


I use my 3-jaw only about 25% of the time, for odd things.. But never for chambering a rifle - that's strictly a 4-jaw necessity..
I like my Jet Lathe and would never consider cambering a barrel from the three jaw that was supplied with it. I always use the four jaw. I looked at the Grizzly lathe when i purchased, but the one i liked was a three phase and the Jet 14x40 was a Single Phase and i wasn't buying but for personal use so went with the Single Phase Jet. It has worked great for my use.

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Originally Posted by Redneck
Originally Posted by MColeman
Originally Posted by high_country_
You also might as well budget a bison chuck right now too. New scroll chucks that come on lathes a working man can afford will drive you bonkers.

I bought a 3 jaw adjustable chuck with both my lathes and finally went to my 4 jaw modified with 1/2 inch copper rods in the jaws for all my chambering. It's easier and faster than trying to dial in the 3 jaw adjustable.


I use my 3-jaw only about 25% of the time, for odd things.. But never for chambering a rifle - that's strictly a 4-jaw necessity..


100% agree. I find the import 3 jaws to be great for material wasting and not much more. A good scroll saves a ton of time when building odd parts and such. The first month that he spends on the machine will likely be turning jigs and such....kinda nice to a halfway true chuck for that.
Good advice from everyone above. You also need to look at the dimension through the headstock if you plan to set up barrels clamped in the chuck with a spyder on the outboard end. If this gets to be too long you will not be able to do short barrels without some additional fixturing.
The spider i made work great for cutting Chambers from the head stock but with short barrels i have cut my chamber using the steady rest.
Don't be too quick to write off the older lathes. I use a 60's Rockwell/Delta and it is tight. Old American lathes were built to last. You just have to find one that was well maintained and taken care of.

Instead of a 3 jaw, look for a 6 jaw Buck chuck. I use it about as much as my 4 jaw.

Good luck!
I don't do enough lathe work to make it worth the cost to invest in the Buck Chuck

I managed to come up with a tool room South bend 14 1/2 it will bed 60 inches. But the spindle bore is only 1 1/8 so go for at least 1 1/2 spindle bore. The only way a scroll three jaw is going to be accurate is if it's jaw are ground on the lathe using a standard ring. I do 99% of my work with an independent 3 jaw. For small parts I dial in a 3 inch 3 jaw in my 10 inch 4 jaw
Sounds like you have a nice lathe
I very seldom use my Bison Tru Adjust 6 jaw. I have a Cushman 3 jaw that I use mostly, my collets, and My Bison 4 jaw. The 6 jaw does give better holding ability.
Originally Posted by bea175
I don't do enough lathe work to make it worth the cost to invest in the Buck Chuck


I don't either. I got a smokin deal on one and it was just a no brainer to pick it up. $60 if I recall.
For 8 years I have cut chambers and threads.
I am on my 4th lathe.

Any new lathe made in china that is at least 12x36 will be good enough.

DRO sure is nice.
I have a nardini 12 x30. Three phase but easily converted a single phase motor to work as a phase converter. Capable of higher precision than i am. Is very smooth and cuts metric and standard thread.is long enough unless one intends to cut barrel tapers on longer barrels.Is very comfortable to work over. I use a four jaw thread and chamber. Sometimes in a steady rest and sometimes in the headstock. Grizzly makes a gunsmith lathe that is demoes on u tube. Is an import but looks decent
I am extremely satisfied with my Sunmaster ERL-1340 imported for me by Matt at Quality Machine tools.
Here it is fresh off the truck.
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An a year later hard at it. It's still is running like new.
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Just starting on an older Logan 211 that was purchaced new for personal use, Its in great shape and plan to upgrade the tool post to an Aloris AXA soon. You have to start somewhere!


Larry.
Matt is a pleasure to do biz with.
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