I have a question regarding the tang area on these B&C Medalist stocks. For the Model 70, the rear action screw goes through the receiver just forward of what I consider to be the "tang." If you bed under the tang as is normally the case, the rear action screw can still torque the action downward, as this portion of the receiver is unsupported by the stock/bedding.

There is a small portion of aluminum bedding block around the rear action screw that can be bedded, but it's precious little surface area to support the screw torque. How do most of you handle this on a new Model 70? Seems like B&C could have made this stock a little more handy by building up the block in that area.

If you have pictures of a properly done job on one of these, you'd be my hero. I'm very comfortable with bedding, but Remmys and Weatherbys are more my speed.

Bed the screw/lug recess and the entire "tang". Basically everything just rear of the trigger assembly.

It doesn't take much bedding on the rear tang to get the rifle to shoot.

What I wound up doing was building a flat clay dam at the back of the trigger cutout. Then, I bedded the cavity all the way back. I'll redrill the action screw hole once it sets; that was easier than trying to build up around the screw hole with so little room to work with -- should make for a stronger setup, as well.

Sure will.

Okay, bedding job complete on the Model 70 Extreme Weather. I used Devcon Plastic Steel -- my compound of choice. I've bedded a lot of rifles, but never a Winchester.

The lug was straight forward, but the compound is very, very thin on top of the receiver flat; I'm suspicious that it may flake off over time. The good news is that it's so thin, I'm not sure it'll matter. There was obviously a very, very close fit between the two surfaces. We'll see. I'm not apt to redo it at this point unless some of you Winchester guys advise otherwise.



I found the tang area to be tricky. Once you grind away the factory goo, there is very little aluminum bedding block to serve as a "shelf" for the new compound to sit on. I found it easier to block the pillar hole, dam it up with clay in front by the trigger assembly, and make a solid block of bedding. Then, when it cured, I just drilled through the pillar for the action screw hole. I wound up with a lot more surface area for the screw block, and three clean "walls" to keep it from moving. I had to go back with the Dremel and make some clearance for the bolt release spring, etc., which is why it looks a little chewed up.



Thoughts? If you Winchester guys see a problem, please let me know. I'd rather fix it than waste weeks at the range. Not sure about that receiver flat...the bedding there is thinner than a sheet of paper. I am confident that the rig is stress free; it passes all contortions of the action-screw test tightening/loosening test. Both screws bottom out and "hit the wall" almost immediately.

When I bed the Tang on a Winny, I run a piece of tape on the back flat bearing surface and sides of the Tang for a little clearance. This way you don't create a secondary recoil lug.

Not sure if it's necessarily needed, but it don't hurt and all the Winny's I've bedded don't have any complaints.

Hmmm...wish I would have thought of that Eddie. Here's to hoping that the recoil lug is doing its job up front.

This is how I bed the tang on M70's after "grinding" the paint off to match the contour of the tang.

Far as the front lug, I always bed them tight.

Karnis, would you relieve that area and add compound, or would you leave it as is?

Relieve just a tad. Add your compound, then the barreled action. Tighten the front screw only, leave the rear one out until it cures.

To clean up around the metal should any bedding compound "squish" out onto the stock take a cuticle stick or a chop stick and make a flat/fine flat (kind of like a knife blade). The put a little gun oil on the end you cut and shave the bedding off.

You'll have to wait until the compound is no longer tacky. I test it with my index finger. If the compound sticks to your finger, wait about another 15 minutes and test it again. Once it doesn't stick it will be like putty, that's when you "shave" it off.

+1

I think you me and Redneck bed them the same way........mine never complain either.....

I like pics..... ....:







[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/015-2.jpg[/img]

Ruger anyone ......:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/009-21.jpg[/img]

Richard, not to nitpick you work but it seems the bedding is a little thick. Your action and barrel may stick up a little high out of the stock...The thing I like doing most of the time is skim bedding over the aluminum bedding block. If you look at my pics, you can see where the bedding doesn't stick near the pillars or front action hole...theres a reason for that...I leave that section alone so the barreled action will rest on it like it is susposed to. That way your barreled action is sitting in the stock as it was intended and you get the proper freeloat etc.....Here's how I prep the stock and how I add the bedding compound:





[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/006-13.jpg[/img]

When you skim bed a stock like this, you end up with a thin layer of bedding over the pillars but plenty of reinforcement behind the recoil lug where you really need it...Drill some anchors too if you choose, this also adds extra strength...:
[img]http://i1180.photobucket.com/albums/x401/chiefbsa/013-9.jpg[/img]

Did this with a win model 70 tupperware stock.....