I bought this blank for a rifle build and the price was reasonable so it seems.I'd like a rifle builders opinion on it honestly.

Thanks














[img]http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo297/Fast996/KGrHqZqYFEy1YLcwQBRjFtUqE60_571_zps27a0db56.jpg[/img]

Very pretty figure, but grain layout isn't optimal IMO. Specifically downward trend of same in the for end, and the intense figure running into the wrist area is a weakener of the weakest part of a stock. If that is sap wood on the left side of the blank (can't tell for sure from the pic), I would have left it on the seller's shelf. Whoever cut that blank either didn't know what he was doing, tried to squeeze more blanks out of the stick than he should've, or had major defects that he had to work around. IMO,again, it would best be used for a single shot or lever action rifle which would allow for more structurally sound layout.

That's not to say it's a bad piece of wood. I would have bought it if 'the price was right' too.

Not a pro but it looks like you could shift the lay out forward and tilt it downwards to help get the grain to run better in the grip and for end.

This would put the feather figure more in the butt stock.

Beautiful blank that might be best if not on a heavy kicker. But with cross bolts and a reinforcing rod through grip it could work for that.

How heavy a caliber will this be? You do need to be concerned with the wrist area layout if it will be a large caliber magnum - remember that the recoil effect is proportional to the muzzle energy going out the other end. As to the color layout, try to visualize only wood inside the stock layout outline and decide if you will be happy with the different, asymmetrical color contrasts that you will have going on with this stock. Last observation is that this actually could be made into a decent 2-piece stock because you have more blank geography to play with.

The rifle build would be a 404 Jeffrey(maybe).I am concerned with the wrist area and the way the grain flows through the grip area.

Doesn't have to be a heavy caliber to wreak havoc on poor grain structure in the wrist. I just finished putting a stock back together that was broken in half through the wrist. Culprit: tight fiddle back figure combined with a swirly grain structure (for lack of a better term). Caliber: .22 Maximum Lovell (wildcat between a .218 Bee and a .222 Remington). It looked pretty but was an accident waiting to happen.

Physics edit

Know the physics - was taking literary license to make a point - most people relate better to muzzle energy than momentum

I cancelled the sale. After going through all the responses sometimes a "deal" isn't a deal. The butt figure was appealing to me but as someone I respect said "I wouldn't touch it".

Good move Roger. There are better blanks to be had.

I too would avoid it due to the run of the grain in the wrist area.

Some one tell me about this blank please

My expansion of your picture using the Ctrl and + keys leads me to suggest passing on that one for any heavy kickers. Again, while character is fine in the forearm and butt stock, one wants straight parallel grain for structural strength in the wrist area.

A closer image though might yield some more informed opinions.

I could be wrong but it looks to me that if you moved you outline up and to the right just slightly, it would be ok.