Here's a Remage project from start to finish. Just finished today so no range report yet.

I started with an old 243 Remington ADL, I called Jim Briggs at Northland Shooters Supply and ordered a 7mm-08 light varmint stainless CBI barrel. (FYI Jim was great to deal with, excellent customer service and very helpful)



The Barrel showed up well packaged.






The doner 700, the Barrel, and a Bell and Carlson Medalist.

First off remove the barreled action, trigger, scope, mounts, ect and put the barreled action in a barrel vice.



I usually put a stud in the forward action hole to keep the action wrench from slipping.



I also use a little masking tape between the action wrench and the action.



A little heat may be necessary to soften the threadlocking compound used by Remington. I just use a propane torch, not enough heat to change the temper of the steel.

[img]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/jpotter75428/IMG_20140409_192155.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/jpotter75428/IMG_20140409_192220.jpg[/img]

Try not to burn the dog

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After the heat just turn off the action with the wrench, it still takes a bit of effort even with the heat but not too bad.

[img]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/jpotter75428/IMG_20140409_192749.jpg[/img]

Definitely need to clean the threads.



Put the new barrel in the vice and grease the threads.



Put the Go Gauge in the gun and close the bolt, then screw the action the rest of the way down until the action stops on the Go Gauge.





Remove the Go Gauge then tighten the barrel nut. Re-insert the go gauge and make sure the bolt still closes.



Remove the Go Gauge and get some scotch tape.



put a piece of scotch tape on the back of the go gauge.

[img]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/jpotter75428/IMG_20140409_194604.jpg[/img]

trim the tape to fit.

[img]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/jpotter75428/IMG_20140409_194643.jpg[/img]

Scotch brand tape is .002 inches thick, If the bolt will close easily without the scotch tape but will not close with it on the back then you know your chamber headspace is set to within .002 inches. you can check the SAMMI spec to see what the tolerance is on your cartridge. .002-.004 will get you well within tolerance every time.

http://www.saami.org/PubResources/CC_Drawings/Rifle/7mm-08%20Remington.pdf

The bolt should not close with the taped gauge.





Next stock work, to open the barrel channel I use a wooden dowel doubleback tape and sandpaper.



Sand out the barrel channel



Check often with the barreled action for fit, about 30 minutes later you should be done.



here is the final fit.



Next duracoat...



After the proper prep work spray it on, fyi the color is magpul OD green.

[img]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/jpotter75428/IMG_20140416_191416.jpg[/img]

be sure to tape off everything you don't want duracoated..

[img]http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l16/jpotter75428/IMG_20140416_191508.jpg[/img]

wait more than 24 hours before re-assembly

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Looks nice . Thanks for all the indepth information .

I can appreciate the effort to document your progress.

Well done.

Nicely done sir

I'll remember that one.

Nice write-up!

Thanks for sharing. I have thought about such a project as well. I look forward to seeing how it shoots for you.

Looks good!

I've seen Savages made without the barrel nut but I've never seen a Remington with one. Why did you choose to add the nut?

The barrel nut system allows you to set the headspace very accurately without a lathe. Only hand tools are required.

Can hardly wait, looking for some 7mm-08 brass now but cant find any. I will resort to necking down 308 win but really don't want to as I own a 308 and don't want to risk getting shells mixed up and in the wrong gun. May neck up some 260, I don't have one of those yet.

What did you do to verify that the lug remained in the proper position while screwing everything together?

CR

Nice post Old03.
You're right about Jim too, he's great to work with.
I've ordered from Northland for my Salvage rifles but no Rems in the safe at present.
I'll steer a couple buddies to your post so they can see how easy it is to re-barrel without a gunsmith.

There is a recess in my action wrench that helps to locate the lug into the correct position. Yes I know my wrench is a bit on the rusty side, need to hit it with a wire wheel and maybe a little leftover duracoat.





On the one pictured above I used a precision ground recoil lug and it was much easier to get in the correct spot, my previous remage (pictured below) used a factory recoil lug and I had to loosen and retighten a couple of times before it was perfectly straight.

Thanks...

CR

I'm very interested in seeing targets. I've looked at this for a .243 I have, to turn it into a .260. I was going to give it to a gunsmith to pin a recoil lug, then have a switch barrel.

If I remember correctly, Criterion, Bergara and Pac Nor make barrels that use this system.

Finally made it out to the range for some load development, been pretty busy the last couple of months.








Here is the first bunch after sighting in at 100 yards, for the most part I was shooting 5 shot groups.



Got it pretty well zeroed in with IMR 4350 and 140 grn gamekings.

I moved out to 200 yards after I thought I was good with my powder charge and started playing with seating depth. I only shot three shot groups at 200 yds.

Nice shooting. I don't think the whitetails in Texas will have a chance with that rifle.

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